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I just taught myself an expensive lesson: bleeding the clutch with the traditional wrench on-off method can shear off the bleeder bolt. Doing it the night before a track day means much money lost.

I bought a mityvac to avoid over-torquing the bleeder valve but i can't make it draw a vacuum with the collection canister in the line. The unit can create a vacuum, but the weak link (and air leak) is the plastic cap/plastic cup that collects the fluid. There is no gasket in this unit, which doesn't make much sense to me.

Anyone have suggestions as to how I can make this mityvac live up to it's name?

thanks,
c
 

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Mity vac

No I can't make it live up to it's name. However, after sucking out all the fuid in a brake or clutch line I reverse my Mighty-vac per the manual and pump the system full from the low end. Never had to bleed much using that method.
 

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The unit can create a vacuum, but the weak link (and air leak) is the plastic cap/plastic cup that collects the fluid. There is no gasket in this unit, which doesn't make much sense to me.

Anyone have suggestions as to how I can make this mityvac live up to it's name?
c
Are you sure it's the cap that's leaking? I get leaks at the bleed screw. Does the system hold a vacuum with the bleed screw tightened? (A little grease on the end on the tube that slips over the bleed nipple helps, also cut a little of the tube off if you've pushed it over the nipple more than a few times)

Make sure you have a good sealed system, before loosening the bleed screw.
If it truely is the cap, use a little grease around the rim to seal.

If good to there but, it leaks (bubbles) forever with the bleed screw loosened, remove the bleed screw and wrap the threads with teflon tape, reinsert, and try again.

Hope that helps and Good Luck.
 
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