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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a used 2011 Monster 796. I just changed out the oil on it and it had a pretty large metal piece stuck to the magnetic drain plug.

Some details about bike:
-~13,000 miles
-Oil was extremely low when I got it, had to top off around 3/4 qt for it to reach the middle of the lines on the window. Bike was ridden in this condition for around 5 miles.
-Hadn't been ridden much in the last year
-Sometimes doesn't start on the first try when cold, shows "0005 rsw." Always starts on second try. If it does start on the first try, it takes a second. When bike it warm it starts up immediately.
-I took it into the dealer for them to see if everything is good, they performed a "multi point inspection" and said all is good, but it seems like they just did things like brake pads, tires, etc.
-I've had the bike around 10 days, ridden almost every day. Today, when I started the bike up to warm up for oil change (took two tries), the revs went up to around 4000 for around 2 seconds, comes back down to idle 2-3 seconds, shoots back up to 4000 for around 2-3 seconds, goes back down to idle, did this a few more times till I turned it off. I started the bike up again a few minutes later and all was normal. This had never happened before.


Then I did the oil change and found this on the drain plug along with some shavings, unfortunately I did not think to take a picture of the plug as it was before cleaning it off.



What should be my next move be after find this?

Thanks in advanced.
 

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That chunk of metal is alarming...the two starts boils down to annoying...

That metal isn't some extra bit that finally was rid of...it's important...my gut says rod bearing...there just isn't a whole lot of opportunities for a chunk of metal to appear...

You just bought it...the seller has sensed a problem

Take it apart...do your due diligence and gain piece of mind...or don't...part it out before it's a write off

If it's not knocking like there's a problem there's still a chance...if it already is...stop running it...cranks can be ground true again but it's a fine line between scrap and salvage
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Damn that's unfortunate, I'll look into taking it apart. I've rebuilt my DRZ engine before, is it going to be overly difficult because this a Ducati?

What may have caused this to happen? Riding too hard? Improper maintenance? All the above?

Thank you for your inputs
 

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Those are simple engines but you will need a flywheel holder, clutch holder, rig some kind of engine stand, time and patience.Maybe need something for the drive pulley i don't know.
 

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I would ride it.

There's no telling what that is, how crucial it is or whether or not the problem will get any worse, if you told the dealer about it document it, in a diary is good enough and document their response. Just in case it all goes pear shaped, you may have warranty comeback that will definitely be void if you tear into it yourself.

But, it wouldn't be the first time strange debris has been found in the sump of an engine that then went on strongly for years, i've heard all sorts of stories and it's not that uncommon on reasonably new bikes to have collets and what not come out during an oil change.

Why tear it apart at your own cost with the possibility of finding absolutely nothing wrong inside? It's not a problem yet, deal with it when it is
 

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@SP3's estimation of a ball bearing cage seems right on to me.



I don't know if this is worth tearing down for just yet. The piece of of material looks like sheet metal. The bearing can operate without that, particularly if it's only one portion of the cage. If I saw chunks of races in there then yeah it's time for sure to tear down.

I'm trying to think of other places in the engine where light gauge sheet metal might come from. I'm not as familiar with Ducati engines. Anyone?
 

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I’d ride it if it was mine and check the drain plug again soon. An oil analysis would be a prudent thing. Then, if the results warrant it, go on with further work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for all your inputs, I really appreciate all of your thoughts and ideas. I won’t have time for a tear down for a few more weeks so I’ll keep riding it lightly and see how things change (or doesn’t change) as time progresses. I’ll keep the thread updated, thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did an actual oil change today. Finally got the filter and washers and did the full oil change, previously I just replaced the oil only.





Nothing’s changed, just thought I’d document what I saw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Did an actual oil change today. Finally got the filter and washers and did the full oil change, previously I just replaced the oil only.





Nothing’s changed, just thought I’d document what I saw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Was it magnetic...was the original piece magnetic... everything important inboard is magnetic except rod bearings...you can run bearings without their separater...but something caused it to explode...drain the oil again and use a cheap borescope to peak inside...watch your oil pressure..if any light comes on the dash heed the warning and shut it down
 

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Pull the generator side cover...it's not surgery...and you have really good access to view the engines internals...see if the return spring for the gear selector arm has failed...I've got an 821 and it failed on mine at 39k miles... apparently they still haven't engineered a solution...something has circulated through the engine that shouldn't have
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The original piece from the first post was indeed magnetic.

None of the pieces on the mesh seem magnetic. In fact, some of the longer pieces were flat, gray in color and were "rubbery" and stretchy, similar silicone sealant.


Should I peak inside through the refill hole?
 

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The original piece from the first post was indeed magnetic.



None of the pieces on the mesh seem magnetic. In fact, some of the longer pieces were flat, gray in color and were "rubbery" and stretchy, similar silicone sealant.





Should I peak inside through the refill hole?
Rubbery bits is very common ...could be from a valve check or the case was recently opened...peaking inside is always helpful...peaking inside the fill cap isn't going to shed any light on the situation...bottom line, something broke something free in the motor...it might not be 100% but it still may Function...if it was a bearing separator than it will make noise but ultimately be ok...but something caused the failure...maybe a dropped c lip from a previous adjustment...lost tool...who knows...listen to the motor ...it can't lie...if something is dire it will tell you
 

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I bought an inspection camera from Harbor Freight and it works really well. You’d be able to see a lot with one. The lens illumination is great. The rubbery stuff was probably gasket sealer.
 
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