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Rumor has it rivet links are stronger, when changing gearing for different tracks, are rivet links used? If so, do you break the chain at the rivet link or elsewhere? As a street rider returning to chain drive now, I have to catch up to O/X ring chains and rivet tech. My trail bike has o ring and a master link. I'm not convinced that I need a rivet link and the costly tools. Anyone know about drag bikes, milers, rivet/master?
 

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rivet, never a clip. The hassle and the tools are less than a busted case.

I normally set up things so one chain will cover most rear gearing changes, if it's more drastic than that then I'll change the front and still be on the same chain length (one front tooth ~3 rear teeth).
 

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Not a rumor. Riveting is the only way to go for racing, especially for anything above 100 hp. You'll need to get all the tools and break the chain at the rivet each time. Have a number of spare rivets for this.
Good Luck.
Richard
 

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I whole heartedly agree that in most cases, the riveted chains are the way to go. Last year I bought my race bike and the previous owner had Regina Racing chains with their version of a master link. After trying to take the master link off the chain, I realized it was a press-fit system, just w/o the rivets. You still need a tool to get it apart, but it takes MUCH less time to deal with and its WAY easier to re-assemble and get right the first time.

I have over 5000 miles on 2 chains and haven't even had them stretch on me, let alone the master link clip fall off.



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I have used both... I think the rivet is better but wouldnt hesitate to use the clip style link. I have never had a problem with either. if these are coming off on people I would SPECULATE that it is because someone didnt install it properly....
 

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I agree. I've used clip type links for a lotta years before rivet links became the standard, and still wouldn't hesitate.

I've never spit a clip.
 

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I whole heartedly agree that in most cases, the riveted chains are the way to go. Last year I bought my race bike and the previous owner had Regina Racing chains with their version of a master link. After trying to take the master link off the chain, I realized it was a press-fit system, just w/o the rivets. You still need a tool to get it apart, but it takes MUCH less time to deal with and its WAY easier to re-assemble and get right the first time.

I have over 5000 miles on 2 chains and haven't even had them stretch on me, let alone the master link clip fall off.
Tye Tye Tye, you need POWA to stretch a chain :p

lol just playin



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The whole clip vs. rivet deal is over hyped. I have used clips for my bikes for the last 15 years without a flaw. While younger and working as a mechanic at a honda bike shop I saw just a couple and all were on poorly maintained bikes.

You can use a little safety wire to be safe.


Everyone always has these "I heard from someone" stories
 

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My stories are more along the lines of "I had to clean up the track after we got the guy into the ambulance" stories.

I've seen clips come off and the chains go through cases. Is it due to an error on the installation? Most likely. But a badly installed rivet link won't come off as easily as a badly installed clip. For me it's just not worth taking a chance with something that simple and easy to do better.
 

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For many years, clips were the only choice for master links. If you look at the design, it is somewhat like a circlip that fits over a groove on a shaft. Circlips are used successfully in many rotating applications to hold components on shafts etc. I think in the application of chains, the clip can be stretched if not installed properly. When this happens, it looses its retaining abilities and can pop off. So I think the design is adequate but one has to be careful during assembly. It is interesting that every chain I buy now for my street bikes has the rivet type design. For sure it is a more secure way to hold the masterlink together. The dirt bike chains still use the clip.

As a side note. I have had one chain come apart in the 40+ years of riding bikes. It was a rivet chain on my ST4. The front sprocket clip wore out and allowed the sprocket to move back and forth on the drive shaft. As the sprocket moved to the outside, the outside of the chain began to grind on my clutch slave cylinder. Eventually, the rivets ground off and I lost the master link plate and the chain dropped completely off the bike. Luckily I was just leaving a stop sign and no damage occured. The really scary thing is that two days earlier I was heading back to California across Nevada (Hwy 50) at very high speeds. If the chain would have let go at those speeds, who knows what would have happened.

CHANGE YOUR FRONT SPROCKET RETAINERS WHEN YOU CHANGE YOUR CHAINS ON THE OLDER DUCKS!
Mike
 

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As far as the changing gearing with rivet links part of your question, the Pro Thunder team I worked for had different length chains made up to use with different gearing, cause the stupid 748's stupid single sided swingarm with it's concentric adjuster set-up would totally screw your hard won chassis set-up just cause you wanted to change gearing. Stupid. Stupid set-up.

Anyhoo, we'd grind off the rivet links and use new ones each time.

Club racing? Screw it. I found a gearing that worked ok with every track we regularly visited and left it at that. I couldn't be bothered. :sleep:
 

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clips are generally ok. I had 2 clips and the original was rivet. On my circlips I'll fit it then clean the link off with some petrol.. just the outside bits.. then smear a gob of silastic or silisone sealant across the link and clip.. this removes the potential for vibration and the clip shifting.

ALWAYS make sure the clip is intalled the CORRECT WAY.. I wonder how many of those accidents were clips back to front.. hard to find out once it's all destroyed I guess.

but race use.. I'd probably pony up for the rivet tool.. street and occasional track.. clips ok.
 

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Club racing? Screw it. I found a gearing that worked ok with every track we regularly visited and left it at that. I couldn't be bothered. :sleep:
+1. The gains are pretty minimal for the amount of effort you will put in messing with gearing.

If you are going to bother to change gearing do it right and use a rivet. Odds are you will be OK with a clip but why chance it?
 

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It's also a great way to make yourself ride faster: Third gear too tall for a certain corner, but second too short? Use the higher gear and carry more corner speed. It's not always the answer, but many times it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've never had a chain come apart at the clip master, but have broken a half link on dirt. With this feedback it seems that rivets were a safeguard from litigation. Thanks all for the info.
 

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my personal experience with a clip coming off was on a dirt bike, but it made me swear that I would always use a rivited chain from then on. it left me with a 5 mile walk back to the truck. it could have been worse, I had just made it out of a steep canyon. if it had happened at the bottom, I would have had to retrieve the bike the next day. JB
 
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