[Yorik]

Since there always seems to be questions, I thought I’d write this up.


MAKING CHANGES TO THE MM ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU)


WARNING – There is risk involved with accessing the ECU. Reversing the power leads to the diagnostic cable can make the ECU unusable. In other words, you will brick it and you will have to replace it or find a work-around, if possible. I'm sure there are other ways, too. By attempting to access your ECU, you accept all risks associated with doing so. No one is making you do this and you do so willingly.


This only covers ECUs made by Magneti Marelli since I will be limiting discussion to the IAWDiag and TunerPro programs. I will not be getting into technicalities. I’m a layman and that’s who this is written for.

If you have a different ECU, I suggest checking out M3C by jpdiag (for the M3C ECU from Siemens) or Melcodiag (for Mitsubishi ECUs) also from the maker of jpdiag to see if one of those will work for you.


But first, a few basics.

IAWDiag: A free/donation ware program (and associated programs) that allows access to Magneti Marelli ECUs. IAWDiag is the generic version of GuzziDiag.

TunerPro: A program that allows a user to read and make changes to a bin file. There is a paid version and a free version. The free version does what we need it to do.

Bin file: A binary file that is found on the ECU. This is where the fuel map(s), immobilizer flag, and other items that control the motorcycle can be found.

Xdf file: A file used by TunerPro that translates the bin into something that can be understood by the user.


I’ll be covering two of the most popular items people ask about. One, loading a new fuel map to the ECU and two, turning off the immobilizer. Other popular things IAWDiag can do is reset the service indicator, adjust the CO trim, and reset the TPS. (Just a note about resetting the TPS – you never want to electronically reset the TPS if you have the non-linear type. That is done manually.)

Before diving right in, you will need the following:

• IAWDiag (the main program is universal, but the associated programs that allow you to read and write are ECU specific). GuzziDiag / IAWDiag

• TunerPro (free version). TunerPro and TunerPro RT - Professional Automobile Tuning Software

• Cables to connect the motorcycle diagnostic port to your computer. The most trustworthy source is Lonelec. MOTORBIKE-DIAGNOSTIC Archives - Lonelec

Ok. Time to get started. The first thing you should do is just get familiar with IAWDiag. There is a good tutorial online that covers GuzziDiag. And since IAWDiag is the generic version of that software, they are very similar. The main difference between the two is that GuzziDiag allows the user to select the model of bike they have whereas IAWDiag makes you choose the ECU and TPS that the bike has.

The tutorial can be found here: The New Improved GuzziDiag Tutorial

To determine the ECU your bike has, you can look it up in the service manual or ask on the forum. To determine the TPS, the type will be embossed directly on it if you have physical access or, again, you can ask.

Now that you have looked over the tutorial and have determined the ECU and TPS combo you have, it’s time to connect to the ECU.

The safest way to do this is to first connect the two cables together. Then connect the power leads to the battery. MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT REVERSED. A quality set of cables will have a power indicator light that will not come on if the leads are reversed. However, some of the newer cables get their power from the USB connection, so you still need to be careful. And some have internal protection circuitry. Buy quality cables!

Now you can connect the other ends of the cables to the diagnostic port and computer. Open IAWDiag and select your ECU/TPS combo in the Preferences sub-menu. If you don’t see the combo you have, select your ECU and a TPS that is of the same type as yours, i.e. linear or non-linear. You also have to have the com port correct. Now you can select the Connect sub-menu item and follow the prompts.

Hopefully, all went well and you’re now connected.

The Reader and Writer features can also be accessed through the IAWDiag program menus or opened directly from their file location.

The first thing you should do if you are loading a new map or making an immo setting change is to download a copy of the current file on the ECU. It’s good practice to keep an unedited copy of the file in case you ever need to reload it if the changes you made didn’t work or you don’t like the results of what you did.

Before using the Read feature (which makes a copy of the bin file), it’s advisable to remove the fuse for the headlight. The reading process isn’t very quick and it’s best to minimize the drain on the battery. Now go ahead and Read the ECU. Just follow the prompts.

If you are loading a new map, go ahead and use the Writer feature. This will erase the ECU and upload the new bin file you have. This usually goes much quicker than the read process. After uploading a new bin, you must perform a TPS reset. Remember, do not use the TPS reset feature in IAWDiag if you have a non-linear TPS. Resetting the TPS is outside the scope of this posting, but Brad the Bike Boy has excellent information about it at his website: BikeBoy.org as does Desmo Times’ maintenance guides by LT Snyder.

If you are disabling the immobilizer, you will be using TunerPro. Open the program and then open the bin file you downloaded from your bike. You will also have to select a proper xdf file to translate the bin so you can make changes. Because xdf files are made by the DIY community, not everything you may need exists. We are at the mercy of the people out there that have the knowledge and ability to decipher bin files properly.

Most xdf files are named well enough to get an understanding of what bins they are designed for, but sometimes they also work on others. Finding an xdf that works can sometimes be hit-and-miss. And to add occasional grief, not all xdf files have the immo flag so that you can toggle the setting. The simplest way I have found to check if an xdf looks good is to load it up with the bin in TunerPro and open the main fuel map. If it doesn’t look right, and it’s fairly obvious when it isn’t, then it’s time to try another. The RPM and TPS scales will be off and the map will look wrong. Do not attempt to use an xdf that looks wrong.

If you find a working bin/xdf combo with the immo flag, all you have to do is uncheck the checkbox and save the bin. That’s all there is to it. Be sure to save it as a different file than the original. Upload the modified file using Writer and that’s it. I would also do a TPS reset, but I’ve heard the argument that it isn’t necessary because nothing was changed except the immo switch. Up to you I guess. If it doesn’t feel like it’s running right, do the reset.

 

[TiDuc]

That is awesome thank you for taking the time to produce such a good write up. I shall invest some time into checking out the tutorials and actually download the software and play a bit. I have only run Tuneboy stuff and my Full stand-alone ECUs from Performance Electronics, never cracking into OEM ECU. I look forward to it.
I have 2 questions, mostly to make things simpler at a glance. 1. What models/years would be covered by this tutorial? 2. Is there a way to save your original files, in case you hose it up, (I will 🤯). So you could put the ECU “back” to where it was before monkeying with it?

 

[Yorik]

I'll answer your second question first. The Reader program makes a copy of the bin file found on the ECU. There is only the one file, so all you have to do is keep a clean unedited version of it and you can reload it to go back to where you started from.

Unfortunately, I am not completely familiar with which models use which ECUs without looking all of them up. However, I do know it goes back to at least the 916 model years of bikes up through the 1198 model years. So, 1994-2011? Something like that.

 

[QLDs4]

This only covers ECUs made by Magneti Marelli

I guess this is in relation to 5.9M and 5AM and not the IAW15M.A8
pictured below?

 

[idaka]

I guess this is in relation to 5.9M and 5AM and not the IAW15M.A8
pictured below?

If you go to the GuzziDiag Page, you will also find IAW15x Reader/Writer.

IAW Diag work with the ECUs
P7, P8, 16M, 15M, 15RC, 15P, 59M, 5AM, 5SM, 5DM, MIU1, 7SM, MIUG3

Best Regards

 

[QLDs4]

you will also find IAW15x Reader/Writer.

Nice.
Every thread I've read has been about 5.9M or 5AM.
I guess that immobilizer is the root of most people's problems.

 

[belter]

in tunerpro, if you want to know if the change you think you've made has actually happened, you can look at the hex to see if it has.

before you make the change - right click on the name of the thing you want to change, and then on "edit parameter xdf info" and then in the "address hex" box it'll give you the address of where in the file what it is changing is. for instance, 0x4D144. i'm looking at immo flag in a gt1000 037 file here. write that down.

then click on tools > advanced > hex editor and it'll open up the file in hex. scroll down to line 0004D140 and then go across to column 4 and see what it says. std file will be 01. you need to close the hex editor to move on.

click on the immo flag thingy and click the "set" box so the tick goes away, then open the hex editor again and go to the address given. it should now be 00.

i'd always check after you think you've done something like that, just to make sure it's changed. the flag system thing makes no sense to me.

i always rename the files too - if you look in the hex editor display at the rh side you can see lots of characters. go to line 48000 in the gt1000 file and it has ......B35LFPQ? which is the file software id that iawdiag will show you. this file doesn't have a ducati # - often they'll also have a 2864xxxxx or 965xxxxxx number which is the ducati part # as well as a marelli software #. the marelli software # actually starts on line 47FA0 at 47FA4, being the 2235 after the 3I, then it jumps to 48006 for the rest of the #. why? who tf knows. just how it is, get over it. iawdiag would probably show 2235B35LFPQ as the software #.

i would click on the ? in the rh section and type ID in, and the numbers in the columns will change to 49 44. then save the file with ID (immo disabled) at the end of the file name, and that way anyone who looks at it will know what's been done. you can actually rename it anything you want. lots of my files start with BB so I know it's mine, then ending in progressive # so i know what version it is. anything that makes sense to you is fine.

then save the file. i would always do a save as so you have a new file, and i would always have a back up version of the original file before you start tunerpro, as tunerpro will write over the original unless you tell it not to for some reason. typical of how software engineers do stuff.

 

[oldratbag]

Fantastic! Thanks for doing this Yorik, and just in time for me as I'm just starting to learn this stuff in order to tackle my M695s poor low-mid rpm throttle response, and then (hopefully) my Hyper's lousy fuel mileage.

I'll be studying this thread closely and will no doubt have some dumb questions for you, if that's alright. I'm just waiting for my Lonelec cables and interface to arrive. I have a 2008 Hyper 1100S and M695 which I believe have the same 5AM ECU. Not a clue about the type of TPS(?) I'll post some pics, if someone could ID.

Thanks again, you're a f'ing champ!

(PS - @ belter, thanks for the tips, also)

 

[belter]

linear tps, PF1C.

both those bikes are lambda enabled as std, so if they're both still running std ecu simply making them open loop will make them ride nicer.

 

[oldratbag]

linear tps, PF1C.

both those bikes are lambda enabled as std, so if they're both still running std ecu simply making them open loop will make them ride nicer.

Thanks mate!

I should note that my Hyper has the stock exhaust, and running K&N air filters only due to the 6.4 gallon tank install. Runs nice, but gets shit gas mileage (as low as 21 mpg).

The Monster on the other hand still has completely stock airbox but full Silmoto exhaust system (oem exhaust got crunched in a side-on). Sus dealer promised a $750 dyno tune would set everything right, but I doubt it ever did. That was in 2010. Currently runs like shit - lumpy and rich, takes forever to warm up; hestitates under throttle and pops on overrun.
Needless to say I'm really looking forward to getting a handle on that ECU..

 

[oldratbag]

Yorik, maybe you'd rather lengthy individual questions be posted in a separate thread, given this is a valuable tutorial. I don't wanna jam things up too much with my idiot questions

 

[Yorik]

Yorik, maybe you'd rather lengthy individual questions be posted in a separate thread, given this is a valuable tutorial. I don't wanna jam things up too much with my idiot questions

Someone else may have the same questions. Give it a shot. I can always move it. I have a button!

 

[belter]

there's 3 parts to this ecu flashing and tuning bit.

there's actually reading / flashing the ecu - the part that scares some.

there's the question of whether or not what you've put in there is what you want / suitable for the model / actually any good.

and finally there's the set up of the tune itself - tps set up, throttle body set up / balance / sync and idle mixture setting.

ime the final part is where most of the problems lie.

 

[oldratbag]

there's 3 parts to this ecu flashing and tuning bit.

there's actually reading / flashing the ecu - the part that scares some.

there's the question of whether or not what you've put in there is what you want / suitable for the model / actually any good.

and finally there's the set up of the tune itself - tps set up, throttle body set up / balance / sync and idle mixture setting.

ime the final part is where most of the problems lie.

I understand, I think.. Part 1: either works or it doesn't (the scary bit). Part 2: can be changed, given Part 1 worked (phew). Part 3: mostly(?) mechanical adjustments to optimize the new tune/map.

Only I'm not quite clear on 'tps set up' in Part 3. Is that different than a TPS reset in software. Is any of Part 3 still in software/remapping?

 

[belter]

linear tps - reset via software.
non linear tps - mechanical baselining procedure.

 

[oldratbag]

linear tps - reset via software.
non linear tps - mechanical baselining procedure.

Got it - thanks!

 

[oldratbag]

Well, my Lonelec cables and adaptor arrived, so I'm reading up before getting started connecting and using the software.

Thinking it might be smart to start with just a TPS reset and see how the bike runs before going any further. Does that make sense?

I'm seeing a lot of references to using TuneECU with this setup, as well. I'll of course keep things simple and just follow this thread for now, but nevertheless am curious whether TuneECU does anything IAWDiag and TunerPro doesn't?

Can you give a rundown on the functions and purposes/strengths of each bit of software?

Thanks!

 

[Yorik]

Can you give a rundown on the functions and purposes/strengths of each bit of software?

I, personally, cannot help with TuneECU. I've never used it. Besides, it only works on 5AMHW610 ECUs. That's ok for your bikes, but I also have a 59M, so I never bothered with it. I can do both with IAWDiag.

 

[oldratbag]

OK, thanks. I'll just concentrate on IAWDiag then. I just installed updated Win7 drivers for the KL-1 adaptor, IAWDiag and 5AM read/write software, and the 5AM EEPROM tool.

 

[oldratbag]

@belter

Can you please clarify which file should I use to run DP open loop?