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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello ST friends,

I've seen a lot of useful advices for ST models here, therefore I thought you can help my problem. I hope I can describe it correctly, since I'm not native english.
I'm a tall guy running an ST3 model, but the levers are very uncomfortable, because gripping the handles my fingers are pointing down, under the levers. The levers cannot be turned down, because the cylinders of the clutch and the front brake are touching the vertical console that holds the handles.
I tried the factory, they suggested to turn to the local service, where I was told that I should swap the levers to radial ones, but they would cost a hell of lot of money, which I don't prefer.

Any idea?

:rolleyes:
 

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Would you have more room to rotate the levers if the handlebar tubes were longer? This would put your hands out wider than stock, but might allow the levers to be moved farther away from the front forks, allowing the levers to be rotated down into a more comfortable angle.

Something like this. As seen from above.

 

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I did not like the position of the levers on either my 916 or my ST2. I removed the clip-ons, pulled the roll pin out, and replaced everything (except the roll pins).

I can now rotate the levers to any desired position.

Others have done this as well...
 

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I think the type of rotation he is looking for is around the bar,(like the throttle grip) not the around fork tube as allowed by removing the pins. He wants to rotate the levers up, but can't due to interference from the reservoir/banjo against the clip on/bar bracket. He may need a custom fabrication. (?)
 

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I was talking about the rotation around the grip area. I guess I wasn't specific enough. And yes, there is a limitation to the amount of rotation, both up and down, when things start hitting.
 

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is the trouble, rotating the levers up, or down?

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the problem is the rotation the levers down.
The first solution from Hickey sounds logically, but the handle bars need more than 5 cm lengthen, and I'm not sure of its affect on rideability, cornering etc.
In addition this new version (2006) came with a peg that stibilizes the levers in a fixed position, but I think they can be removed. This "peg" thing has been used at Monster model as well, as far as I know.
 

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those are nice looking parts, the clip on casting.
however the lack of adjustablilty, annoying.
maybe a set of cyclecat bars?

radial masters- clutch & brakes are nice-but $.
or
relieve the stock handel bars, risky'er. your call.

Andrew.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you Andrew and all others for the ideas. :)
I've visited Cycle cat website, and DBR25 bar mounting system seems to be the solution, although a bit costy, but probably much cheaper than radial master clutch and brake.
My question if anyone installed the DBR25 on his/her bike, and are you happy with it? Enough space to turn down the clutch and brake controls?

Roland
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any pro's & con's about "Helibars vs. Cyclecat" bar mounting system?
Roland
 

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desmo said:
Thank you Andrew and all others for the ideas. :)
I've visited Cycle cat website, and DBR25 bar mounting system seems to be the solution, although a bit costy, but probably much cheaper than radial master clutch and brake.
My question if anyone installed the DBR25 on his/her bike, and are you happy with it? Enough space to turn down the clutch and brake controls?

Roland
I put CycleCats on my ST4s. They are the DBR15 for the 2003 ST4s. My kit came with hoses and brackets to relocate the reservoirs to the inside of the bars (toward the center of the bike). That way there's no interference when rotating the bars. I haven't done that yet but I plan to.

I am extremely happy with the CycleCat setup. The bars are a bit longer than stock, which gives better leverage. The adjustability of the system is truly amazing. There's still limits, but the range is excellent.

-Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ryanr256 said:
I put CycleCats on my ST4s. They are the DBR15 for the 2003 ST4s. My kit came with hoses and brackets to relocate the reservoirs to the inside of the bars (toward the center of the bike). That way there's no interference when rotating the bars. I haven't done that yet but I plan to.

I am extremely happy with the CycleCat setup. The bars are a bit longer than stock, which gives better leverage. The adjustability of the system is truly amazing. There's still limits, but the range is excellent.

-Bob
Thansk a lot Bob!
 

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desmo said:
the problem is the rotation the levers down.
The first solution from Hickey sounds logically, but the handle bars need more than 5 cm lengthen, and I'm not sure of its affect on rideability, cornering etc.
In addition this new version (2006) came with a peg that stibilizes the levers in a fixed position, but I think they can be removed. This "peg" thing has been used at Monster model as well, as far as I know.

Desmo,

I believe ST3 has clip-ons that attach to the fork and not the triple tree. Have you move the clip-on all the way to the highest position before rotating the levers down?

-Fariborz
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Fariborz said:
Desmo,

I believe ST3 has clip-ons that attach to the fork and not the triple tree. Have you move the clip-on all the way to the highest position before rotating the levers down?

-Fariborz
I'm not sure about the question (sorry, its my english), but I guess its the clip on. I tryed to attach pictures, but uploading failed.
 

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Fariborz said:
Desmo,

I believe ST3 has clip-ons that attach to the fork and not the triple tree. Have you move the clip-on all the way to the highest position before rotating the levers down?

-Fariborz
The position of the factory handle bar "risers" is not relevant to the ability to turn the levers as the bars attach to the risers which then clip on to the fork tubes and can be slid up and down 20mms. The brakes/clutches banjo bolt/union nut will turn down into and be stopped by the riser's arm which has a groove/bend shaped into it to conform with the banjo/union. The previously mentioned longer bar approach, would require bars longer than the banjo bolt/union nut affair coming out of the reservoirs. That means they'd have to be about two inches longer to be able to slide the levers/reservoirs/banjo/union assembly past the riser' arms to clear them. One could try reversing the risers front to back and left to right, but my guess is this the bars would bang into the tank at the stops, as the riser "arms" would now be on the back side of the fork tubes, but the levers could freely rotate down. Aftermarket risers are needed IMO.
 

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I've been considering the Cycle Cat bars for the exact same reasons as mentioned above - lack of sufficient lever rotational adjustment. But man, the cost...
 

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after thinking about this or a bit,
if the price is close, I'd go w/radial masters.
much bettter braking leverage and feel,
anything to lower the clutch lever presure cant be bad.
just a thougth
even if you do one at a time.
I've installed a radial 18mm brembo master on the my 03 st4s abs.
it made the abs liveable-imo.
the next step was to decomission the frt abs for better feel.
now I can live with it.
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
acpdx said:
after thinking about this or a bit,
if the price is close, I'd go w/radial masters.
much bettter braking leverage and feel,
anything to lower the clutch lever presure cant be bad.
just a thougth
even if you do one at a time.
I've installed a radial 18mm brembo master on the my 03 st4s abs.
it made the abs liveable-imo.
the next step was to decomission the frt abs for better feel.
now I can live with it.
Andrew
I only know the cyclecat mounting bars' price ($340 + $20 for the master cylinder spacer kit) but I wonder how much did your brembo radial master cost to see how close the costs are.
 

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ryanr256 said:
I put CycleCats on my ST4s. They are the DBR15 for the 2003 ST4s. My kit came with hoses and brackets to relocate the reservoirs to the inside of the bars (toward the center of the bike). That way there's no interference when rotating the bars. I haven't done that yet but I plan to.

I am extremely happy with the CycleCat setup. The bars are a bit longer than stock, which gives better leverage. The adjustability of the system is truly amazing. There's still limits, but the range is excellent.

-Bob
i agree, the quality is also great.
 

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CycleCat products are top quality and I've been thinking about ordering their adjustable bar system. It looks to have great adjustability. I noticed the same problem when I first started riding my ST4s, that the brake lever was rotated too high. It made blipping the throttle for downshifts while braking very difficult. I have adapted my riding style though, buy tucking my elbows in and crouching down a bit when braking. This changes the angle of my arm to the bars and makes for a more natural reach to the lever. Give that a try, it works well for me.
 
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