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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here's why I should have stuck with my old adage. Highmiles are okay if
well cared for and prone to less problems than low miles and neglected. Which is what low miles really means, neglected.

So I put on the timing belts and took it for a spin, it started heating like
a sticking thermostat. Pulled it back in the shop and stripped it down again.
Pulled the thermo first and put it in a pan of water and it opened at the correct temp. So I'm scratching my bald head and occasional cuss words are flying.
Stick my finger in the water pump outlet and it's an algae farm. Pull the pump
cover and clean it out, pull the radiator and flush it, flush the engine, put it back together and fill it with distilled water. Gets to 219 and the fan comes on,
before the fan wouldn't come on even. Interesting fact, at 219 the heads
are actually around 194. So everything seems fine. I'm waiting for it to cool a bit
and then new antifreeze.
The engine bolts came so I guess I can do that while I wait.
 

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coolant

might help if you run a coolant flush thru entire system before new anti freeze for a little extra :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
might help if you run a coolant flush thru entire system before new anti freeze for a little extra :D

yea, I did. Now ready to go with new bolts too.
 

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If you're doing your bolts, pay attention to the "drag" on them when removing them. If they're a little difficult to pull out, you may want to consider centering the engine "bolt ways" with the frame bosses so they'll slide in and out with less drag. When I replaced mine last year, the rear had way too much drag on it, I had to pound it out, whereas the front slipped out with no resistance. Sure enough, the rear bolt way and frame bosses weren't lined up. Once I lined them up, the bolt slid in slick as snot, and the front now has a bit of drag on it. The engine cases should make as little contact with the bolts IMO, ie they shouldn't be used like "hangers" so road shocks won't transfer to the cases. The engine should be held in place/suspended in the frame with the pinching/binding torque forces of the bolt pinching the frame and engine together to form a solid unit. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks Frank, they slide in pretty well. fronts real easy the back a bit of tapping
but I didn't have to use the 9lb hammer. ;) Isn't the back under a bit of tension form the rear suspension. Seems Nichols instructions said as much..
I went with the tpo ti on the new to me ST the old one has the 10mm nichols.
 
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