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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who makes the best 43mm seals and bushings. I'm going to try one more time to improve the forks on my S2R1000. I'm going to replace the entire cartridge assembly with a unit made by Mupo...

Mupo Srl - Kit cartridge R-EVOlution

.... and need to freshen up the rest of the forks while I'm at it.

Getting ready for May you know. :)
 

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skf?

I went with these-not cheap however.Fork Seals by SKF | InnTeck USA
1 SKF oil seal and 1 SKF wiper seal developed to achieve superior sealing performance.
New self-lubricating compound.
Virtually eliminating stick-slip and improving performance by reducing friction.
Bench tested over 1 million cycles Developed in motocross tests conducted at 50 hours no further maintenance.
More than 20% reduction in friction compared to standard seals
Smoother fork action Compatible with a wide range of original equipment and aftermarket oils
Increased seal life and performance
Enhanced water and dirt protection capability and withstand UV light
Maintain low and constant friction in operation
Reduced wear and air suction

 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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19,081 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I looked at those and read the propaganda. But how do you personally feel about them? Any difference from the OEM stuff.

I’m asking because the stock stuff on the Showa’s has so much drag and stiction that’s what I’m hoping to improve.


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I looked at those and read the propaganda. But how do you personally feel about them? Any difference from the OEM stuff.

I’m asking because the stock stuff on the Showa’s has so much drag and stiction that’s what I’m hoping to improve.


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you will feel the difference straight away,their that slick.the material also feels much superior over oem.
 

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Am I reading correctly ? $34 for ONE SEAL ?
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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19,081 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just for fun, while researching Mupo suspension parts I came across this really cool video. :)

 

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Hi DuckMan, i have the same part number fork on my 02 monster 900.
I am fighting with fork drag/stiction from about this summer, i was able to gain a good improovement but i am not yet satisfied.

I think that in order to take advantage from the improoved cartrige the fork must move smoot.

Did you measured the amount of stiction in mm?

For the misure i used the metod indicated in the following link (applied at front fork instead of rear)

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Sag
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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19,081 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Since rebuilding the forks I can pull them up and release and compress and release and they settle to within 1-2mm. Stock it was more like 10mm. I see this as a huge improvement. When checking this I back the compression and rebound damping all the way.


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Very good number ;)

I started with 25mm

New oil 10mm (found worn outer tube)

New old stock fork 15mm

Skf seal with pfte grease, new bushes ducati. 10mm

After 2k km 15mm :(

What component did you use?
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I used new Ducati bushings and Allballs seals with Racetech seal grease. But I also replaced the entire cartridge assembly with a setup by Mupo. The cartridge made a big difference. I also put a lot of effort into making sure the forks were perfectly aligned on the axel.


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I have aligned the fork with one or more procedure, checked inner tube and axle on glass plate, outer tube an a lathe, tryed reducing upper bushing clearance with calibrated metal foil to about 0.08mm but can't go under the 10mm of stiction.

I also know that the stock cartrige is crap but i opened it, checked and cleaned all the part and it seems to not have any stiction

What method did you use to ensure the perfect alignement?

Thanks
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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19,081 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What method did you use to ensure the perfect alignement?

Thanks
Nothing special, just attention to details. The front axel on most all Ducati's deforms and becomes egg shaped from the pinch bolts. You want the axel to slide easily by hand through the wheel bearings and forks. If you have to use a drift and hammer to get the axel out this is why. The easy fix is before removing the axel loosen the pinch bolts and rotate the axel 90 degrees and re-torque the pinch bolts. Have a beer and when you come back the axel will slip right out and back in by hand.

After installing the wheel and tightening the left side pinch bolts most people grab the front brake and bounce the suspension. Use a front wheel chock or put the tire up against a curb or something so you can bounce the suspension without using the front brake. Sometimes the brakes can pull the wheel to one side. After this you should be able to grab the right side fork lower and move it back and forth on the axel and see the small amount of movement possible. It will be obvious when the axel and fork leg are perpendicular. You can see and feel the sweet spot. Tighten the right side and it's just about as good as it's going to get.

Also when measuring sag. I ride the bike first to get everything warmed and loosened up, using the brake a lot. Then I back the damping off all the way to let it move more freely.
 

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First off, I wanna say thank you, for starting this thread.

After reading through...at least to the point about the SKF seals, I decided to go with those for the rebuild of my 996 forks.

I too discovered the "ovalized" axle and went through pains to ensure it slid through easily. I used a similar procedure to ensure tightening the axle nut did not pull the fork legs together to where the sliders were no longer parallel to one another.

As I had a suspension pro take care of the rebuild, I had a choice of fork fluid. Either Öhlins or Maxima. I didn't really think too much about it when given the choice...but probably should have done a bit of research.

I ended up going with Maxima as I couldn't see an advantage over the Öhlins but later I read that Öhlins fluid is full synthetic and that they claim a further 30% reduction in friction.

That said, I am perfectly happy with the results from using Maxima and SKF super slick seals. BTW, the $34.99 gets you one wiper and one dust seal. Still.....I don't regret going with them at all.

So once again, thanks for this thread.....sean
 

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Thanks Duck Man for all the good trick.

I have already cheked the axle and found about 0.3mm out of round.
I have tryed to correct as you explain and go to 0.1mm but at the time i haven't whaited . Maybe i will retry waiting one or two beer ;)

Anyway i can slide the axle in and out with hand.

About pinch bolt, i usually tight it before installing the bake pad and eventually using a wall to bounce.

With the first fork i have even checked the stiction without the wheel and axle ( using a wood block under the fork), with the upper triple tree clamp and the steering stern pinch bolt loose, in order to eliminate front axle and triple tree problem.

Maybe i retry with this fork.

Anyway this week i will order some unicorn unobtanium :) andreani or kayaba grease and put it under the dust wiper to see if it is better than mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is the first time I’ve ever put grease on the seals (not the dust cover / scraper). And I don’t know if this is normal seal design, but the Allballs seals I used have two actual sealing lips a few mm apart. I packed that void with the Racetech grease. I don’t know if this is a normal practice or not. I just thought I’d try it.


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I have tryed silikone + ptfe, no grease or lithium + ptfe grease (between the two seal lips) but if the seals are in good condition (not too old and dry) the improovement is about 2 or 3 mm with silicone grase. At last in my 2 crappy forks...

Regarding the temperature i found that in my case more temperature = more stiction

Today i used the bike and stiction was 10mm before and 15mm after back to home
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Regarding the temperature i found that in my case more temperature = more stiction

I’m not sure what to think about that.

This is what I’m calling grease:




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