Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was about 2 miles from home when I noticed it. Rode home, pulled in the garage, put it on the tender for about 20 minutes (light was still solid red) and then decided to pull the seat off and check it with a multimeter (after unplugging the battery tender). It read 11.95V at rest. I plugged the tender back in and it took all night to get the green light to come on. Usually, the tender goes to blinking green within a couple minutes and it is solid green after 15-20 minutes. I unplugged it this morning and will check it again tonight after I get home (I didn’t ride it to work today).

Anyway, is there something else I should check? Maybe the charging system is not working correctly? Seems way too soon for a battery failure, the bike is only 2 years old and I ride it regularly and plug it in to the tender every couple weeks. My commute to work is almost an hour one way so that really should be enough to charge the battery.

Are Lithium-Ion batteries a good choice for this bike? The bike is largely stock except for an Arrow full exhaust and a lead for heated gear.
 

·
Old Wizard
Joined
·
3,006 Posts
The best way to assess battery health is to take it to an auto supply store and have them do a load test. A load test determines if the battery can deliver its rated current to a resistance similar to that of a starter motor without dropping below a voltage threshold value.

Alternatively, you can simulate this test by first charging the battery (a healthy fully charged battery should measure about 12.6 volts) and then remove the fuse to the fuel pump so that when the engine is cranked it won't start. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals as it cranks. If the voltage drops into the upper-9 volt range, you need a new battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,570 Posts
When parked, I have my bike hooked up a Battery Tender Plus all the time. That is not the problem. Research it and you'll find there's a world of difference between holding a charge and cold cranking amps. Another member posted about this in a similar thread.

Here's what I use at the end of each month on my bike, car and truck to avoid the surprise no start ...

SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester.

Amazon.com: SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester: Automotive


Fluke brand testers are better, but much more expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Turns out the plug for the rectifier had worked itself loose. Bike was only putting out 12V so the battery was flat the other night. I pushed the connector for the rectifier in all the way until I heard a loud click and then fired it up and the bike was putting out 14-14.1V.

Big kudos to Ben at Moto Forza for suggesting I check that over the phone. Great support from those guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
If the terminals in the connector arced you could have future troubles. If it were me, I would inspect it closely and replace it if necessary. That connector is the weak link in the system and must be in optimal condition to maintain a fully functional charge circuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,570 Posts
Turns out the plug for the rectifier had worked itself loose. Bike was only putting out 12V so the battery was flat the other night. I pushed the connector for the rectifier in all the way until I heard a loud click and then fired it up and the bike was putting out 14-14.1V.

Big kudos to Ben at Moto Forza for suggesting I check that over the phone. Great support from those guys.
Good stuff to know, and something for me to check. Thanks for posting that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
If the terminals in the connector arced you could have future troubles. If it were me, I would inspect it closely and replace it if necessary. That connector is the weak link in the system and must be in optimal condition to maintain a fully functional charge circuit.
It is kind of hard to get to but if I get the chance I'll check it out.

He did say that the charging system on these bikes are pretty robust and that he rarely sees issues with them but that he has seen those connectors come loose on a couple bikes and that Ducati changed to a better connector on the 2015 Multi.

Anyway, it seems to be working perfectly now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Good stuff to know, and something for me to check. Thanks for posting that.
The rectifier is on the right side of the bike, next to the battery, below the rear subframe bar. The connector is right above it, just under the bar. I couldn't even get a finger in there to push it back in so I used a screwdriver to push the connector in.
 

·
North Carolina, USA
Joined
·
3,320 Posts
If the terminals in the connector arced you could have future troubles. If it were me, I would inspect it closely and replace it if necessary. That connector is the weak link in the system and must be in optimal condition to maintain a fully functional charge circuit.

Yep, I had a bike one time that kept frying R/Rs, so I eventually ditched the cheap connector all together and just soldered the wires. Problem solved.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top