Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
I went ahead and pulled the trigger. I picked it up yesterday in a "wintery mix" so wasn't able to ride, and its' ~36 deg. F today. Supposed to rain tomorrow too, so I'm really jonesing. It sure is pretty sitting in my garage though.

I've confirmed that it doesn't have ABS. Straight base model. I saw the slotted wheels and sensors and thought it might be ABS, but evidently those are part of the DTC system. I've been playing with all the cool electronic stuff and essentially setting it back to default. I'd like to start with a clean slate.

A few initial questions and observations:
When I turn it to the key on position, the fuel pump cycles then shuts off, but something continues to hum up front. Is that normal? My other Ducatis have been quiet once the fuel pump was done.

Can I use GuzziDiag or IAWDiag to access the ECU? I've been using it on my ST to reset the TPS, clear service indicators, adjust CO, etc. Hoping I can use the same setup on the MTS.

I didn't get the PIN with the bike, so I'll have to get that reset. Can I do that with GuzziDiag, or will I need to get with a Ducati dealer to have that taken care of?

On my ST, I'm able to connect a battery tender through the power outlet. That doesn't seem to be working on either of the connections on the MTS. The PO had installed a tender pigtail, but I prefer the cleanliness and convenience of the power outlet.

I'm sure there will be more questions as I continue to play with it. This is a whole different animal from the ST.

Fingers crossed on the expanding tank issue. I normally only use non-ethanol premium, but that's not always available. I do my best to run the corn fuel out as quickly as I can before it can attract too much moisture.

Thanks for the input up to this point. I appreciate your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
After over ten years on STs, I'm considering moving on to a Multistrada. I'm interested in a 2011 with low miles that's for sale locally at a Yamaha/Kawasaki/Honda dealership. They're not familiar with Ducatis, and I don't know much about Multis. The salesman claims this is an S-Touring model, but I don't see an "S" anywhere on the bike. It does have panniers, but I'm not sure that's an indicator. How do you tell an S-Touring from a base model? Any leads on a good internet VIN decoder?

Also, it doesn't have a code card. I know that's a big deal with STs, but not sure the Multis need it. It has a red key, small black key and the switchblade fob type key. Anything important missing?

I'd also be interested in anything to beware of on this model. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2011 1200S Touring. I believe only the S models have the gold/copper colored fork tubes, which are the superior Ohlins suspension. The S Touring has side bags and a center stand. You can easily add panniers and a center stand to a base model, but the Ohlins suspension is supposed to be far superior to the base suspension. I have never ridden the base model, so I can't tell you from experience how inferior the base suspension may be. I can't remember if there are other differences in the S model. You can probably find photos on line that would tell you if the S model has "1200S" written on the bike anywhere. (I'm traveling at the moment, so I can't go out in the garage to look.)

I have had a couple problems: The internal computer (I think the word is "ECU" but I'm not sure) died twice. This is the part that controls the front wheel locking. At least one of the times the ECU died, the bike wouldn't start. The second time the ECU was replaced, Ducati had changed the ECU and wheel locking mechanism to match later models, so I hope it will be more reliable. Both of my ECU replacements were covered under extended warranty I had bought; first replacement was in 2012, and I was told the cost would have been around $2000; second time was early 2019, and I was told the price would have been something like $1200 if I had paid it myself. Another problem with any Ducati is that there are no significant parts stored anywhere in the United States, so if you need a new ECU or anything significant, you must wait a couple weeks for it to arrive from Italy. Could be a problem if the bike dies on a long trip, although the bike has worked fine on the two long trips I've taken.

The bike also has a modest amount of vibration. I'm more sensitive to vibration than most people, so it probably wouldn't bother most people. I feel the vibration in the handlebars and the crotch. I bought a new 2017 late in 2018 and managed to total it the next day. It handled slightly better than the 2011, and it had a bit less vibration, but the engine threw off a ton of heat in stop-and-go city driving. No heat problem when riding fast. I think the heat problem started with new pollution requirements (EURO-4?) starting in the 2015 model. I wouldn't buy one of the newer ones due to the heat, in spite of the other improvements.

Another thing to be aware of is that you need to keep your tires properly inflated to make the bike handle as well as possible. If they are down a couple pounds of pressure, I notice the difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Looks like the dealer wants to move this bike. He called me back and agreed to $800 off the previously negotiated price. That gets me to ~$600 below KBB value (for what that's worth) for a base ABS bike, which I believe this is. Panniers and Termi exhaust probably help the value a bit as well. I think I might go down and pick it up tomorrow.
I would wait for an S model if I were you, since handling is the biggest reason to buy a Ducati. If you are able to test drive an S model and a base model, you can decide if it's a significant difference for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I've had the Multi a few weeks, but I've only been able to ride it a few times. I've put 50-75 miles on it and I like it a lot. As I mentioned before, I suspect it's still got the original belts on it, so I've started the process of changing those out. It's only got 4500 miles on it, but I'll check the valves, flush the coolant, check plugs and half a dozen other things while it's apart. In the meantime, a few more questions:

In an earlier post I asked about the continual buzzing the bike makes when the "key" is on but the engine is not running. I've confirmed that it is coming from the throttle bodies since the sound changes as I twist the throttle. It sounds like an alarm buzzer and continues until I shut it off. Is this normal? Seems weird.

In the course of removing the tank, I come across one bolt with the allen head rounded out and two that spun the embedded nuts. Had to drill all three out, and I had to cut the two loose nuts out. Has anyone come up with a good repair for these? I'm thinking about epoxying studs in the holes where the nuts used to be, but if there's a better idea....

I got a set of cables and downloaded MelcoDiag. I'm having a little trouble getting a license, but I'm working with JP to get that lined out. My question though is will Melco allow me to activate the heated grip function? My bike came without them, and I'd like to add them.

I'm sure I'll have other questions as I continue to dig. At this point, I'm just looking forward to getting it back on the road and putting some miles on.

Stay safe!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Congrats!
I also noticed that it has a bash plate and header pipe guard.
Yes, the PO had added a couple of nice farkles. The full Termi and crash bars are nice too.

The buzz sound is normal.
Whew! That's a relief. It sounded expensive.

BTW, JP got back to me. He says MelcoDiag can't be used to enable heated grips yet. Still working on that license. I need to reset the PIN.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
For the embedded nuts you can use jb weld. It worked for my 2010 touring model when I ran into the same problem.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top