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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Another one bites the dust.

Fourth battery in the space of eight months. This is why I don’t use them. No voltage protection.
Note. Fire extinguisher dust is awful to breathe in, even in small amounts.
 

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Come in Spinner :)
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7,547 Posts
My Shorai's been in the 853 since 2009, still good, Mito the same, since 2010, '67 Daytona has a Ballistic and the two SR500's have Antogravity's.
Zero issues... but I'm meticulous about making sure they aren't overcharging.
Replaced one Mosfet R/R that was running at 15V on the old Daytona before any damage was done.
That's the secret.... overcharge them and your asking for trouble.
I aim for a setup that runs them at no more that 14.4v peak and even better at 14.2v.
Always run a voltmeter and keep an eye on it.
I use the tiny self adhesive ones from ebay... cost about $2 each.
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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I gotta say this reeks of CNN fake news. :)

I don’t see any brand name stickers on that melted box ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It’s the technology, or lack of, that I’m bagging. I try not to publicly bag a brand unless I see a blatant rip. Like the 400 amp/hour Antigravity that HAD NO CHARGE PROTECTION OR CHARGE BALANCE circuitry built in. Cheap-arse battery sold at a premium. The other three are reputable brands fitted with circuits but still failed.
I’m mindful of the fact that there are thousands of lithium’s out there that don’t fail. I am also aware that lead/batteries fail. But bang for bucks and the perceived benefit (light weight and dubiously measured CCA) I just can’t make the maths add up. I’ve had two of my own lithium’s fail. THE REAL GOOD FORTUNE ON ONE FAILURE IS IT PREVENTED ONE OF MY BIKES BEING STOLEN AS IT FAILED AFTER BEING PARKED AFTER A RIDE.
 

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Premium Member
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4,802 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
My Shorai's been in the 853 since 2009, still good, Mito the same, since 2010, '67 Daytona has a Ballistic and the two SR500's have Antogravity's.
Zero issues... but I'm meticulous about making sure they aren't overcharging.
Replaced one Mosfet R/R that was running at 15V on the old Daytona before any damage was done.
That's the secret.... overcharge them and your asking for trouble.
I aim for a setup that runs them at no more that 14.4v peak and even better at 14.2v.
Always run a voltmeter and keep an eye on it.
I use the tiny self adhesive ones from ebay... cost about $2 each.
Good point davy. Most modern bikes display voltage, how many people keep an eye on it. And how many people want to install a display?
 

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Rob,

When and where did these batteries fail and under what circumstances?
What voltage were they accepting before failure?
 

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Good point davy. Most modern bikes display voltage, how many people keep an eye on it. And how many people want to install a display?
Not to put too fine a point on it but if they want to go ultra-lightweight aftermarket lithium then $2 extra for a highly visible tiny voltmeter is a no brainer.
Same as people who blow the shit out of their track bike rod bearings for the sake of a cheap oil pressure gauge.
At some point people have to take responsibility for what they are doing to themselves.
 

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I just fitted a new generation, AUSTRALIAN SSB Battery, replacing the old SSB Lithium Battery that was over 5 years old, to my ST4S. The old one had 400 cranking amps, the new one claims 420 cranking amps and has a management system with a led display. The manufacturer recommends normal chargers are suitable, but I bought a new charger that will do all batteries including lithium, but the charger does not recognise the battery as lithium and charges normally.
The old version weighed 1216 grams (42.9oz), the new one weighs a little more because of the management/screen and button at 1247grams. Part number for my battery is LH12B-4

I am happy with it and will use in my 998 & Mito when needed.

Craig
 

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Ditto on the voltmeter. Charging rate and failure seem to be the ongoing achilles heal of reliability even on modern bikes. Another easy, cheap voltmeter is a unit that plug into your SAE charger connection. I'll route my SAE charger cable up near the bars or instruments and connect the SAE voltmeter there.
 

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I wonder why you can’t use the amp meter with a Lithium battery?

Craig
Am ammeter tells you if a battery is accepting charge, getting charge or discharging.
A voltmeter tells you what the gain or loss of current is actually doing to the battery.
 
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