[Rocamp]

I ride an 848 which never has a pillion on the back. I do about 2 track days a year but mainly fast back road riding. Is it worth getting linear rear suspension? I've been told you get a lot less understeer. Any feed back on linear rears would be appreciated

 

[Mr Sunshine]

If you are riding this only on the road I would stay with a progressive link. You want that progressiveness to keep you from bottoming out your suspension on any big bumps that you'll run into on the road.

If it was a track only bike I would recommend the linear link for consistency throughout the stroke of the shock.

Is your suspension already worked over with aftermarket stuff done by a qualified professional? If not I would do that first.

 

[Dennie]

I changed from a progressive link to a linear link on my 999R XEROX a few months ago. I had to add a stiffer spring for my weight of 78kg (from the OEM 70kg to a 95kg spring). I don't have a stiffer feel in the rear, but the bike feels much better in steering. It holds line much better and I don't have over- or understeer.

I'm quite sure you will need a different height adjuster for your 848 when you change from progressive to a linear link.

Maybe you can read my thread about my suspension changes: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/112819-what-difference-handling.html

 

[The Lawyer]

I ride an 848 which never has a pillion on the back. I do about 2 track days a year but mainly fast back road riding. Is it worth getting linear rear suspension? I've been told you get a lot less understeer. Any feed back on linear rears would be appreciated

Not worth it for 2 track days a year. I use it for track only. On the road, it will not soak up bumps as well because the rear suspension is not going up and down - well, it's linear.

 

[N.E S4]

With a linear linkage you'll also need a shorten TTX shock as well for it work properly.

 

[Rocamp]

What about the METALTECH DUCATI 848/1098/1198 REAR SHOCK LINK which is still progressive but less so than the stock? I am planning on doing all my suspension/chassis at once and would like to get it right (with ongoing small adjustments) first time. I'm planning on getting new springs front and back for my weight, 30mm offset triples and a rear ride height adjuster

 

[pjonte]

Don't know your weight or what you are trying to improve but the stock rear springs are notoriously stiff compared to the front. If you're a light to mid-weight rider the rear pre-load cannot really be set for the correct rider sag without loosing full extension working travel of rear shock. If you haven't already had the front and rear sprung for your weight and the road conditions you ride start with that first. Chances are; a linear rear link wont be better. If your goal is to improve corner entry or exit triple offsets are your best bet.

 

[Chuckracer]

I am planning on doing all my suspension/chassis at once and would like to get it right (with ongoing small adjustments) first time.

Yeah...good luck with that!

 

[Tractionless]

With a linear linkage you'll also need a shorten TTX shock as well for it work properly.

False.

I installed Ducshop double adjustable linear rear link with a 1098S Ohlins shock and only had to shorten the ride height rod. Immediately settled the rear down on the road and is heaven on the track.

I did poking around on the Ducati forums and found another member who turned me on to installing without needing a TTX. Suspension shops making money hand over fist telling everyone they NEED the TTX for it to work. Maybe to work BEST but it physically works without the TTX.

I had the Ohlins S internally reworked/revalved to work just as good as the older Ohlins triple clicker and it does. I can compare directly to my dedicated trackbike with the 3x clicker and the 1098 is just as good!

 

[Rocamp]

Tractionless thanks for the money saving advice. Did you change out the spring for a linear one? I believe the rear spring is progressive and wondered if it has to be changed to work with the linear link.

 

[ilampa]

Before the 80'ies, all bikes, race and/or road, had linear suspension. Kenny Roberts says in his book that the single biggest handling improvement that happened during his racing career, was when progressive suspension (linkage) was developed.

Makes me feel like quoting P.T. Barnum: "There's a sucker born every minute"

 

[desmo_pt]

Before the 80'ies, all bikes, race and/or road, had linear suspension. Kenny Roberts says in his book that the single biggest handling improvement that happened during his racing career, was when progressive suspension (linkage) was developed.

Makes me feel like quoting P.T. Barnum: "There's a sucker born every minute"

Ilampa,

The matter here is diferrent from what KR talked.

In the 70's the suspension was attached to the swingarm directly, so 1 cm of travel from the swingarm equals to 1 cm travel of the shock.

Were we are discussing only the type of curve of the suspension travel. The suspension still is progresive, 1 cm of travel in the swingarm equal to 1/x of travel from the shock. The link alters the type of curve from the shock.

There are a lot of very good threads from this matter. Do a search.

 

[amullo]

When you say understeer, what do you mean? into or out of corners? Many riders complain that the stock setup on the new chassis lead to understeer and plowing out of the corner, running wide on throttle. 30mm offset triples up front solves that issue. Kyle racing has good ones.

Raising the rear might give you better turn in, but reduces traction on corner exit.. The rear linear link your talking about will probably not change anything inregards to corner entry since your not using the rear suspension that much then. The closer triples will definatly give you a bike that will not plow out of the corner. The down side is slightly slower turn in afaik, but not by much. Overal a better solution to the issues.

 

[Rocamp]

Amullo,
I was referring to the "ploughing out of corners" feeling you mention (i didn't know you could understeer on entry to a corner?!?). I am looking at 30mm offset triples and changing out my front and rear springs for my weight which should significantly help. I figured if im redoing my rear suspension I should look into whether linear is recommended. The general consensus seems to be that I should spend my money on something else!