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Discussion Starter #1
So I was out for a quick ride the other day. I went of the crest of a hill with a good handful of throttle 3rd gear 90ish expecting the front to come up some but it unexpectedly basically went vertical i cut the the throttle quick and front came down hard. I know just touch the rear brake a bit and all would have been good, but too late for that. Now left fork seal is leaking. Seeking opinions!

1. Try sealmate as maybe some dirt from lower in the travel got into the seal.

2. Replace seals my self and save some cash during the winter. I have done inverted forks on my GSXR before but no idea what would be different with the electronic suspension. Anyone ever write up a DIY procedure for this. 2010 MTS1200S.

3. Take forks off and take to dealer or other shop.

4. Take bike to dealer.



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Assuming you have the Electronic Ohlins, I would recommend you get an expert to do it.

My very experienced Ducati service guy wasn't able to do it as it requires some special tools/knowhow.

Good luck!

PS: Mine just started leaking on their own at about 100,000km
 

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1. Try sealmate as maybe some dirt from lower in the travel got into the seal.

2. Replace seals my self and save some cash during the winter. I have done inverted forks on my GSXR before but no idea what would be different with the electronic suspension. Anyone ever write up a DIY procedure for this. 2010 MTS1200S.

3. Take forks off and take to dealer or other shop.

4. Take bike to dealer.
Definitely try the sealmate first. I had a weeper right after I bought my '10 and it sealed it right up. Pull the dust wiper and use the tool, then cycle the forks a bunch of times and do it again.
If that doesn't work, remove the forks yourself and take them in to the dealer. My local quoted me $75 plus the cost of parts (Ohlins fork oil is $30 a liter).
Last case would be to take the bike in. Labor will add up quick and if you are capable and have the time, why not DIY?


I currently have mine off to replace the fluid. I bought the Motion Pro pin spanner for loosening the cap. It has 2 pins. One cap came loose easily and the other started to egg @ the holes, so this morning I took it to Koups and they used the Ducati tool to loosen(@ no charge so props to them), it has more than 2 pins to spread the load. Just warning of possible hang ups.
 

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A surprise vertical wheelie at 90ish mph. Damn...

(please pass me some clean underwear :wink2:)
 
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The electronics are contained in the cap, so if you have prior experience removing them from other forks, this job may not be too difficult. I did not fully reduce preload to expose the nut securing said cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The electronics are contained in the cap, so if you have prior experience removing them from other forks, this job may not be too difficult. I did not fully reduce preload to expose the nut securing said cap.


Nice pics.

Sealmate ordered.

So need to set all the front suspension to softest settings before removing if I get to that point or even if taken off and given to dealer?


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Nice pics.

Sealmate ordered.

So need to set all the front suspension to softest settings before removing if I get to that point or even if taken off and given to dealer?
Yes, as is the case with a bunch of different brands, it's the only way to access the nut securing the cap to the cartidge/damper rod.

The Ducati factory service manual is available for dl. It has more detailed instructions within.

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/1037210-post9.html

edit: But, refer to the Ohlins manual for fluid recommendations. 170mm air gap with their no.5 fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, as is the case with a bunch of different brands, it's the only way to access the nut securing the cap to the cartidge/damper rod.

The Ducati factory service manual is available for dl. It has more detailed instructions within.

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/1037210-post9.html

edit: But, refer to the Ohlins manual for fluid recommendations. 170mm air gap with their no.5 fluid.

I used the sealmate tonight. It pulled out some gelatinous like goo out and sounded like it released some vacuum when inserting it the first time. Anyway did the process several time till it was just clean oil on it. Pumped and wiped several times along with wiping between uses. Put everything back as it should be, getting that back part of the fender back on after removing so fender could be pulled out of the way was the worst part. Anyway went for a ride up and down the road hard on the gas and brakes to get good travel and all is dry for now at least.

I did download the manual and it looked easier than the ohlins forks I did on the 03 GSXR 1000 as it was hard to get to the nut to release the cap (had to make a tool to compress the spring so the sleeve would reveal the nut). The procedure for these forks seem odd that the seal goes in and then push the inner tub in, instead of the normal dust cap, ring, seal on the inner tube insert and then drive the seal in and affix the clip, push the dust wiper in place. But no the less just need that tool to loosen the cap. I will definitely replace the seals myself if it comes to it. Hope not to need to for a while. Now just to wait for a warmer day for a longer test ride. I will post if it starts leaking again.

Thanks for the advice,

Wes




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ohlins forks I did on the 03 GSXR 1000 as it was hard to get to the nut to release the cap (had to make a tool to compress the spring so the sleeve would reveal the nut).
I use one of these compressors and it works great for those type forks (if I'm following you correct).

 

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I took my leakers to a shop and the ALERT mechanic noticed that mine needed the lower fork tube replaced as a precaution.... So Ducati paid for the right side(?) and I paid for the other side...
Why I didn't receive the notice I don't know.

Some things are best left to the experts. Imagine the huge scratch you put there!!! My fear, so let them do their thing. Then you Know it is proper. I have to let knowing eyes do the job right and then know all is good.
I had the belts changed too and the total bill was not horrendous. No Blood no marks on the bike and No worries.
 

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I took my leakers to a shop and the ALERT mechanic noticed that mine needed the lower fork tube replaced as a precaution....
Did he tell you or show you why exactly(what did he notice)? It's not every day they get damaged to the point of needing replaced. And you'd never do that as a precaution, only if it definitely needed it. How many miles on the bike?
 

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There was a recall, serial# was in the batch. A pinch bolt could break the casting? Kinda peeved that I wasn't notified by Ducati formally. Now Ducati has engraved the torque specs on the offending part. Do check yours out.
 
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There was a recall, serial# was in the batch. A pinch bolt could break the casting? Kinda peeved that I wasn't notified by Ducati formally. Now Ducati has engraved the torque specs on the offending part. Do check yours out.
My '10 has torque specs. Noticed it with the first tire change. I thought you referred to the slider.
 

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The mechanic said the price of the tube was only $300.oo (Ducati paid) They had one in stock. Lucky me.
 

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Lower tube Ohlins with casting for axle pinch clamp ...
My fear was the unknown and me being clumsy and gouging pretty parts
I have heard that the forks can get grungy and seen some bad looking fluids, for me let the experts handle the job and they can suffer my wrath when they slip up and do the gouging. Never a bad move to let someone wiser more experienced and CERTIFIED to do the diagnostics. I talked to the mechanic and he has a rep for being top shelf and all knowing, No problem paying up for reassurance of all is OK!
 
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