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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I would share. Picked this little guy up for $44 on Amazon - thought I would try it. Perfect fit. Plenty of room behind the heat sink. Really bright. Put the H4 to shame in my garage with door open and daylight. Will know more tonight when dark. :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So the beam pattern has not changed - from what I can tell it is the same as with the halogen. Only now about 70% brighter......man this is going to make traveling those mountain roads much less a pucker factor! Now this is of course with that top=hat inside the lens removed. The side beams are perfect. When I hit a corner and lay her over the side beams focus on the proper axis and really illuminate the inside radius of the curve. I am sold. Ordered a pair for my Durango main beams and a pair for the fog lights..
 

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It’s amazing the amount of light LEDs can generate. I have them on my Yamaha and thinking about installing one on the Duc. Very nice!


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Is it still working well? Do you have many miles on it yet?

I've got to do something about my light. It's still the stock incandescent bulb and it's terrible.
 

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So the beam pattern has not changed...
Can you do the test again against a wall to see the cut off in dipped beam, much & such as described by Strega?
Those two images appear to show a high cut off point in the beam pattern: If you look at the car in the left side of your images, the head rests are very well lit up in both beam spreads indicating the driver of such a car would be blinded by the light. Of course this is not taking account of bike / road angles etc - hence best to repeat the exercise against a wall from a level plane :)
 

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part #

Excellent. Do you have a part number of link for this? No matter the pattern if it is bright it will be preferable to what I'm using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is it still working well? Do you have many miles on it yet?

I've got to do something about my light. It's still the stock incandescent bulb and it's terrible.
So far so good. No complaints...:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Excellent. Do you have a part number of link for this? No matter the pattern if it is bright it will be preferable to what I'm using.
Yeah I still got the box somewhere, I will look for it and post an update....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Can you do the test again against a wall to see the cut off in dipped beam, much & such as described by Strega?
Those two images appear to show a high cut off point in the beam pattern: If you look at the car in the left side of your images, the head rests are very well lit up in both beam spreads indicating the driver of such a car would be blinded by the light. Of course this is not taking account of bike / road angles etc - hence best to repeat the exercise against a wall from a level plane :)
Well that is because I am sitting on the seat at a stop which is loading the shock and unloading the forks. Were I to be actually riding my weight on the bars would be pre-loading the forks and shifting weight from the shock reducing its pre-load and the beam would drop drastically. Replicating a riding position while static, like you and Strega suggest is not the way to go for a motorcycle. All I did was change the light element. The housing and lens remains the same. There is no change in pattern. Plus also keep in mind that the extremely bright white light will light objects up the original incandescent was also lighting up....just not nearly as well. It is easy to get bound up with things which really have no change....

Quick Edit: I have NOT been 'flashed' by ANY oncoming traffic since install which would indicate a mal-adjusted beam.......this is the real discriminator......
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Excellent. Do you have a part number of link for this? No matter the pattern if it is bright it will be preferable to what I'm using.
No "part number"

Just 'SeaLight H4 motorcycle kit'...I got mine on Amazon.
 

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Replicating a riding position while static, like you and Strega suggest is not the way to go for a motorcycle.
Well actually it is... To do it correctly you need the help of others to hold the bike whilst the rider sits in the normal riding position, weighting the bike correctly.. You should measure the height of the bulb, mark it on the wall, wheel the bike back a certain distance, yada yada you don´t wanna hear it anyway obviously..
 
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