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Discussion Starter #1
so after thinking and searching and thinking some more, a year later i FINALLY took the plunge and got a gt1000. picked up a used one with 3k miles on her and some warranty to boot. original tank, shimmed by dealer. everything is stock.

i have a few sportclassic noobie questions...

1) in park, i cant "lock" the steering. can this be normal? cant get it into the parking light mode either. the bars just dont turn far enough over.

2) original owner said he had the first service done, but the idle is rough. tachometer pops back and forth a bit by about 300-400 rpms, you can hear the bike rev up and down a bit as it does it when in neutral, and worst of all at very slow speeds you can feel a bit of go and lurch as the revs oscillate.

3) the bike got hot today when i got landlocked in traffic. i spent an hour bumper to bumper, and the temp increased to 330 F. this is my first air cooled bike, but i know their liquid counterparts prefer to remain below 275 F. odd thing was ambient temp wasnt to bad; today was between 75 and 80 F. when the temp reached 330, im not sure if i stalled it lurching forward or if its a safety feature from the heat but the engine stopped. dear god im hoping i stalled it. i waited a few moments and let it cool a bit, and it started up no prob. rode it home without issue either. so whats the temp range for this engine, and does it have the ability to automatically cut out if it gets too hot? i should mention the oil level appeared normal.

4) ive been spoiled with superbikes in the past, but found turning to be sluggish. the bike just didnt want to take the lines i chose in the turns. im thinking this is more due to its purpose and design vs a sbk, but wasnt sure what was the fastest way to improve this characteristic. new tires?

needless to say, im taking her in to the local dealer next week while i still have the dna warranty in effect just to be on the safe side. also am looking into a tmsd, though still have more research to do regarding potential conflicts with clip ons first before pulling the trigger.
 

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The steering should have enough turn to allow the lock and the parking lights to be engaged. Have a look at the lock-stops; they are adjustable and someone may have reduced the available travel.

The engine does'nt sound right. It should not 'wander' like that at tickover and 330F is when the quoted 'hot' range is reached. I wonder if you have the correct ECU fitted? early USA models had their ECUs changed to EU ones to cure weak running at low revs. Hopefully the shop will sort this.

The handling is primarily the result of wheels that are too heavy and suspension that is awful. The suspension may be acceptable with lighter wheels but really, to cure this you need to attend to both. There are lots of threads here giving information.
 

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4) ive been spoiled with superbikes in the past, but found turning to be sluggish. the bike just didnt want to take the lines i chose in the turns. im thinking this is more due to its purpose and design vs a sbk, but wasnt sure what was the fastest way to improve this characteristic. new tires?
Put some air in the tires... Seriously.
The standard tubes must be made of galvanized steel mesh - They are just as heavy and leak like a stocking.
Run between (cold) 30psi and 32psi in the front, and 33psi to 35psi in the rear.
+ Check your pressures before each ride.

Greg.
 

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1) I have to wiggle the bars slightly to get the steering parking lock to engage. Not much; just a little.

2) Idle is smooth, but "lumpy", a characteristic of the bike. There is no surging or stalling.

3) Never seen a temperature above 240, and it gets hot here.

4) If you still have the original heavy steel wheels, know that they cause a mulitude of problems with steering and suspension compliance.

I have the stock ECU with a FatDuc O2 manipulator.
 

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Regarding 2) at start up when cold, my bike usually revs fairly steady at around 1200 rpm, then after maybe 8-10 seconds it starts surging and dropping at regular intervals between about 1100-1400 rpm and continues to do this when in neutral at stops until its been ridden a few blocks or so. Then it evens out to a nice lope between 1200-1250.

The low speed oscillation you describe may be the normal jerkiness the bikes have in low gears and low rpms, which is said to be due to the stock ECU running them real lean for emissions purposes. Many here have put on the Fat Duc O2 manipulator to eliminate this problem. I also discovered recently that removing excessive throttle play helps with this.

Regarding 3) anything below 370 is considered to be within the bike's normal operational range, so at 330 it shouldn't cut out due to the heat. If the bike has the stock gearing, it's easier to stall out. I've found on my bike there's something of a lag in the clutch engaging and releasing when in stop and go for more than a few minutes, which makes stalling easier as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
where to i look for the lock stops?

also, how can i tell which (usa/euro) ecu i have?
 

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Turn the forks to one side and look at the back of the bottom fork yoke. You will see an adjuster and a lock nut. For the ECU, have a look under the seat. It is situated at the back, near the frame loop. Hopefully, there will be a serial number on it, which should include the letters (EU) or (USA).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so checked for those lock stops and they appear to be as far over as possible. i could remove them but am thinking this isnt going to help.

upon further inspection, the "pin" that locks the steering appears to project forward (see pics) but the key still wont rotate far enough counterclockwise. furthermore, the cylinder that the key goes into remains depressed as i try to turn it, and does not return up to its original height as it usually does when placed at one of its four positions (on, off, lock, or park).

does this mean issues with the ignition?
 

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Have you tried turning the bars onto full lock and then easing them back slightly until the key turns to allow the pin to engage? If this still does not work, then it sounds as if there is a problem wth the lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
nope, "jiggling" it doesnt work at all. the seat lock is jammed up too.

good thing its still under warranty!
 

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Any chance with all the stuggling that your key is slighty bent (twisted)? Sometimes my GT requires a bit of "jiggling" and I have deformed the key in my frustration... pliers will fix it if so.
 

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the keys are soft - i think they're made of some kind of cheese (like some of the fasteners - beware) and they get bent/twisted from using the seat release lock if you're not careful. best to push down on the rear of the seat while turning the key to release it, as this takes pressure off the locking pin and lets the key turn easily.

even a slightly twisted key will make your ignition get all jammed up - happened to me all the time until i figured out the seat lock issue... i just twisted my key back into alignment gently with a pair of pliers and it works fine now.

and yes, your bike can get hotter than 300 before cutting out, but that seems way hot to me. my bike ran consistantly at ~225 on a summer day, up to ~240 in traffic, and now with the oil cooler removed it runs consistantly at ~240, up to ~280 in traffic on a hot day. have them check this out. while the engine components may be able to stand the 300+ temps, it will discolor the paint on your heads, degrade your oil, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
coincidentally, i already bent my first key within hours of owning the bike trying to get the seat lock open (still have not opened it yet). i had figured it was a simple fix with pliers, and am glad you can confirm the solution for the bent key. but i have been using the sister (straight) key since to no avail.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so i called my local dealer and he said that the gt seat tends to stick A LOT and it's not uncommon to see customers that have bent their keys trying to open the seat. indeed, i bent my first but my second was perfect.

well. i bent my initial key back to spec but still experienced the same issue trying to get the gt into park. i next noticed the issue. the stop-locks werent adjusted too far out but rather too far in. the lock pin was projecting out but missing its hole because the forks were rotated too far inward.

well, i feel like a dope but was happy to get the bike into park. still seeking advice as to how to open my seat though....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
FINALLY!!

go the seat off. tried everything listed in an earlier post, especially the pushing on the back to no avail. then -- click, pop, and off she came. dunno.

went on no problem. what i noticed though is that the turning of the key does not retract the catch in the mechanism far enough in so that the catch releases from the knob it contacts on the seat.

the line connecting the key to the catch is adjustable, and ill try messing with that next if i am able to ever successfully remove the seat again. sigh.
 

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lol, that was funny and true. I think landing a jet on a pitching aircraft carrier is easier to do then to get the dang seat back on in one attempt.


Mine is a bit easier on & off since I taped down the rubber gromments under the seat. The lip of those little rubber pads was catching the plastic cover that sits into the frame. That does have little square cuts out so those rubber seat gromment things sit on the fame mental....but the cutout sare not long enough to prevent catching the lip...and thus hanging the seat up so it can't go back & up to come off.


if he gets that seat off,wait till he trys to get it back on !
 

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here's how i stopped bending my keys...

i got so frustrated with the lock that i bypassed it with an old-school pull-wire. used the goofy little helmet strap that came with the bike. works like a champ and now i can open my seat while the bike is running :) since i left the lock in place, nobody is the wiser (except all you forum buggers now!)
 

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