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Junkyard Dog project update

637 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Serious Black
So it was a pretty shit back half of 2022, with arsehole generational Italian orchardist neighbours making life pretty fukn miserable to the point my good lady was too scared to leave the house. I was pretty keen to investigate the ring-tone a shovel bouncing off their heads would make, but working away from home and leaving my better half exposed meant sucking it up (hardest thing I've ever had to do) while going through the motions of selling up and moving on.

Apologies, it's a roundabout way of saying my dedicated bike shed is gone-burger and I'm now working out of a 2 car garage, with 2 cars, with a lil' strip of Ducati-land at one end. Such is life, I still I have a (well worn) path to the beer 'fridge so it's all good compared to many.

But while activities are somewhat restricted, and the jobs related to a new (to us) house/property are never ending, every now and then I sneak off for a bit of bike 'n beer time and potter away on the 749R/999RS junkyard dog project.

I haven't made any progress on that exhaust/swingarm issue (discussed/whinged/whined about here)....actually, now that I think about about it I have been sneaking up on having a crack at it with some other lil' welding projects, they aren't in the same league of importance but baby steps and all that.

The bike was sort of thrown back together just for ease of transport during the move. A point to note for anybody else doing the same: getting a bike, even a relatively light one, off a trailer is not quite as simple as it sounds when you have no effective brakes....just sayin': don't be me, ask for assistance, it'll save your pooper valve no end of strain.

Firstly, I have to now admit to becoming a member of EAA: Ergal Addicts Anonymous. Ergal? Otherwise known as 7075-T6 aluminium.

Compared to common old 6061, 7075-T6 is made by adding a touch more zinc and a smidge of magnesium, so far so boring, its properties aren't hugely altered. But the magic happens when 7075 is tempered (the T6 tacked on the end) during the alloying process.

It turns out "homogenizing the cast 7075 at 450 °C for several hours, quenching, and then ageing at 120 °C for 24 hours creates an alloy that is 1/3 the weight of steel yet is stronger than some of the steel alloys."

Hmmm, I'm sensing some bullshitometers going nuts right about now, but check this out:

Tensile strength (MPa)Density (g/cm3)
mild steel (ASTM A36)400 - 5507.8
304 stainless steel6218.0
6AL-4V Titanium9504.4

This all came about with the purchase of a Corse 999RS Ergal swingarm pivot shaft:

Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Fixture Composite material

Which lead down a rabbit hole of investigating the properties of Ergal/7075-T6.

Obviously there are a heap of different properties involved between steel, titanium and aluminium but you have to ask yourself what is the point of using an expensive uber-tough Ti bolt given the weakness of the cast aluminium it might be threaded into? Or the carbon fibre it might be securing? Wouldn't something as strong as steel , but 1/3 the weight be a more appropriate choice? I mean not only is it half the weight of Ti but it is a fraction of the cost and infinitely easier to machine.

But it's horses for courses: Ergal has an Ultimate Tensile Strength equivalent to steel but it does have a significantly lower Yield Point (the point at which it is permanently deformed). But then Ti is quite brittle so applications subject to flexing are prone to breakage. Ti is also very "notch sensitive", where a small surface imperfection propogates to a major failure. Both of which explain why Titanium axles are verboten by most racing governing bodies.

Plenty to ponder!

So my sexy new pivot shaft was affordable because it didn't have the appropriate bolt. I could use the OEM steel bolt, but that just seemed like putting Eva Mendes' lipstick on crooked. I actually looked for a flanged Ti bolt, in vain thanks to the unusual 1.25pitch of the M15 thread, but after my proselytizing above I kinda felt I had to walk the talk and make an Ergal equivalent. Pretty sure the Corse bolt is Ti, but then it's being removed/replaced (70Nm) half a dozen times a weekend, something I have no need to do.

I don't have a rotary or dividing table for my lil' mill so it was just marking-blue and careful marking out (not a strongpoint!), then waiting to see what emerged from the swarf. The machining gods must have been fresh back from the pub and in a good mood:

Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Auto part Gas

Corse pivot vs OEM:

Wood Office supplies Font Pen Nail

Hmmm, in for a penny in for a pound (pun intended), I came across a very clever gent who had helped me out with parts in the past who was producing 999 rear axles in 7075-T6. How could I not?

And, if you included the 7075 wheel spacer not shown (I had to machine a custom unit for the Galespeed rear wheel fitment) it saves pretty much bang on 500gm in unsprung mass:

Office supplies Font Tool Rectangle Gas

Realistically there aren't too many other ways of losing 0.5kg in 5 minutes that don't involve laxatives.

Next up, way back when dinosaurs still roamed the earth, I'd installed a CDR radiator/oil cooler set, basically an MB Motorsport replica as used by Larry Pegram on his AMA 749RS, except mine has a filler neck/cap installed. When the Pierobon DP fairing brace wouldn't allow fitment of the RS water tank I thought the filler was a genuine godsend, allowing me to simply not fit the water tank......but this was a complete honey trap: the filler neck/cap took up the exact space needed for the RH RS intake duct.

Seen here against an MB Motorsport radiator:
Grille Wood Gas Automotive exterior Font

So just swap them out right? Nope. The CDR rad/cooler are a matched set, in both manufacturer and mounting arrangement, but looking closely you'll see the MB unit has slightly different oil cooler mounting tabs. I just happen to have a damaged-in-storage-but-still-serviceable MB Motorsport oil cooler....but it also has the CDR-style mounts (as I understand it 996/998/999/1*98 RS's all used the same radiator but the oil cooler and mounting arrangement variations seem deliberately designed to drive me to drink) Look even more closely and the top MB rad mounts are badly cracked, needing repair.

With a new welder sitting in the corner, albeit still a mystery, I could have blanked off the filler neck on the CDR unit but thought it might just be handy for something else down the track, so repairing/remounting the MB setup got the nod. The welding gods aren't half as kind as the machining gods but it's a solid enough job....just don't put your glasses on:

This really was deja vu all over again: the CDR oil cooler had threaded OEM style ports, where the MB cooler has the usual Corse plain ports requiring O-ringed push-fit connections on the hoses, the same as the RS crankcases. So I had to machine another couple of AN to push-fit adapters for the (now too long) hoses:

The short top hose became the long bottom hose which left just one hose to shorten, job done and and it's beer o'clock:

See you tomorrow for the next class in "Idjit Engineering 101"....
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Looking very nice mate.
"Good morning class, welcome back to this Idjit Engineering introductory class. Your tutor today will be seven4niner, he has many many years of idjit experience, and is widely considered an expert in the field. Rest assured there are few people more qualified to further your studies in this niche discipline of how not to do things..."

Alrighty, armed with my new superpower of being able to melt and conjoin separate pieces of alloy in admittedly rudimentary fashion, it was time to tackle the clusterfuck that was the dash mount/fairing brace.

A quick summation: after being mistakenly advised to purchase an AiM MXL dash only to find it was completely unsuitable for the CANBUS/ECU, I rectified that mistake with an AiM MXS, but soon realised it was completely unworkable with the Pierobon (Ducati Performance) race fairing brace/stay. The plugs on the back of the AiM unit clashed with the main supports on the fairing brace, meaning the brace would have to be almost cut in half to fit the dash....kinda defeating the whole "bracing" ethos.

Bumper Gas Electrical wiring Machine Cable

Worse, the Pierobon brace also clashes with the RS water tank, a tank integral to the RS cooling arrangement, as demonstrated previously in the radiator debacle where the CDR radiator filler neck/cap clashed with the RH air intake duct: I needed to be able to fit that tank.

Now I'm obviously not too smart but even I could see that finding a workable alternative to the nice Pierobon fairing brace was key to sorting a number of problems at once, rather than tackling each problem individually.

There are some interesting options available, ranging from the super-sexy F0/RS fairing stay which incorporates the ECU and data collection hardware ($$$ => "gulp!") to cheap and cheerful ultra-basic "club-race" style arrangements. For once it is the latter, with a bit of a tickle up, that looks perfect for my application.

This is the "Motoholders" unit, and they don't come much simpler/cheaper or lighter than this:

Auto part Event Fashion accessory Font Metal

My plan was to relocate the rear single mount lower to allow enough room for the RS water tank above it, and flip the front plate with the dual mounts around 180deg, to open up space for the plugs on the back of the dash...
...again, it's not pretty, but it's solid so that's job done:

Font Eyewear Rectangle Wood Fashion accessory

Some inserts turned up for the anti-vibration mounts (the Italian translation = "gummi", just tickles me, some of us never grow up):

A 2mm carbon plate back-plane cut to shape:

And if it was anybody else I'd be starting to think this just might work....but I'm well practiced in screwing myself over so let's not book the party bus just yet:

Let's see if I can snatch defeat from the jaws of victory....again:

Nup, looking good! The new clip-ons/carbon bars have sorted the steering lock issue; I need to take maybe 2 mm off the top of the fairing brace frame mount for the water tank to sit perfectly, but I think she's a good 'un!

Oh God, I bet the fairing...or air duct...or something, still won't bloody fit......



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It’s looking great! Keep the updates coming. I’m enjoying the journey.
I was feeling just a lil' bit cock-a-doodle-doo after that, and it wasn't easy taking a couple of snaps with a beer that refused to leave my hand but this was the eventual state of play:

Previously I haven't been a fan of the air deflectors, the deflectors on the 749R (track bike) are just crappy clip-on blades not really tied into anything and just look.....shit.

But these F06 deflectors are much more integrated. Fitting them is a 5 minute job that took about 2 hours thanks to where the fasteners are placed, and needing 4 joints in each finger working cut-down tools, but I think the bike looks better for them.

But unfortunately the home-brewed exhaust doesn't play nice with the belly pan. I tucked the zorst in close but not too close lest it actually heat the sump, but it obviously wasn't close enough. So the troublesome Termignoni RS exhaust is definitely going to get a run.......I just need to find the stones to tackle that swingarm cut-out......gulp! Methinks a lot more practice is in order....
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Just needs a splash of red paint to make it go that little bit faster......
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