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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All, my bike has been parked in garage for the last month and today I took it out for a ride, only to find that when I engaged 1st gear and eased out the clutch the bike did not have any response. The engine revs did not change. I flicked the clutch lever a few times to ensure it moved to its full extension ie: completely out. The bike idles nicely and showed no sign that it was in gear, I increased the revs to no change in the situation. I changed gears and none of the gears responded by loading the motor. The interesting thing is I rode home from Melbourne approx 1000 kilometres as my last ride, the bike ran well and did what is expected of a classy sports tourer. But now she has gone to sleep and wont wake up.
Any ideas?
 

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Sticking slave? Have you pulled off your clutch cover and inspected everything?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no i hav'nt taken off the clutch cover. It's a wet clutch and so would need to drain the engine oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
one other thing is the engine oil is as supplied by the ducati service centre. They did the last service on the bike. I don't know what oil they used but since they are the ducati service centre i expect it to be correct. The bike was serviced approx 4000klm ago.
 

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it sounds like something is hanging up. It could still be the slave, or a slightly warped pushrod for the throwout. A longer shot is that the transmission simply isn't engaging because of a bent leg on the shifter drum.

Assuming the oil is the correct spec for the bike, it would not stand to reason that the clutch plates are that far gone. Any other strange sounds from around the clutch indicating broken return springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There should be no reason for the pushrod to be slightly warped, nor the leg on the shifter drum to be bent. Twelve months ago almost to the day I dropped the bike while putting it on the center stand and snapped the clutch lever, I replaced it with a non genuine one from ebay and have had a good service from it. There have been no other drops.

If we assume the clutch is worn enough to be a problem would it be correct to assume it could not get me 1000 kilometres stopping for fuel and food until I arrive home. It makes no sense that after a rest in the garage it is acting like there is are no gears. The gears change making the normal sound as they move into place, there are no unusual sounds.
 

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The hyper (and possibly the monster too) had an issue where the selector fork would seize, and remain stuck in the gear that it was left it.

Sounds to me like both the shifter lever, and the transmission are moving.

Tell me, does it make an engagement sound (clunk) when you go from neutral to 1st gear (specifically this case)? Indicating that some torque is going through the clutch plates?

If the clutch plates were failing, you would have noticed slipping during your ride home.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When going from neutral to 1st there is a definite clunk, similar sound going from neutral to 2nd. This time I put the bike on centre stand and the rear wheel did turn when 1st or 2nd were engaged from neutral. When I put my foot on the brake the wheel stoped but the motor keep idling without a hint of load on the engine. I guess that means the clutch is k-putt. Interesting how it got me home without so much as a wimper.
 

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Hi All, my bike has been parked in garage for the last month and today I took it out for a ride, only to find that when I engaged 1st gear and eased out the clutch the bike did not have any response. The engine revs did not change. I flicked the clutch lever a few times to ensure it moved to its full extension ie: completely out. The bike idles nicely and showed no sign that it was in gear, I increased the revs to no change in the situation. I changed gears and none of the gears responded by loading the motor. The interesting thing is I rode home from Melbourne approx 1000 kilometres as my last ride, the bike ran well and did what is expected of a classy sports tourer. But now she has gone to sleep and wont wake up.
Any ideas?
This is a very confusing situation.
If from you are saying you have no drive does the rear wheel turn freely by hand ? even though you appear to be in gear in which case it would seem to point the finger at the clutch.

You say the revs dont rise when you let the clutch out but but then you say they do when taken off idle (in neutral ?)

I know this is a bit of a long shot but is your engine drive sprocket ok , attached and not worn-out ?

If you had not been for a ride I would suspect a slipping clutch but then the revs would rise but you would not get any drive to the back wheel ?

Intrigued to see how this is resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With the bike on the centre stand I put it in 1st gear and turning the wheel by hand it feels the weight of the motor, the wheel does not spin freely like it does in neutral. The engine drive sprocket is good.

In response to your comment 'You say the revs dont rise when you let the clutch out but but then you say they do when taken off idle (in neutral ?)'. I actually meant the increase in revs by twisting the throttle gave no additional benefit in loading the motor when in gear.

I was supposed to be going on a 350klm ride tomorrow now I will need to do it on a Kawasaki 250R. Oh well, not a sports tourer although it is red. It's to go to a training seminar for work so I can't put it off, and my wife has the car.
 

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With the engine not running and the bike in gear, remove the clutch slave. If the slave is stuck, this will allow the push rod and pressure plate to reengage the clutch pack. Likely the slave if stuck from corrosion or the clutch fluid is not able to return to the reservoir for some reason. Did you move the adjuster on the engagement rod of your new clutch lever? If you turn it in too much, you could cause this very thing. Very unlikely that your clutch is so worn you would get no drive. Even a badly worn clutch would give you something.
 

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Twelve months ago almost to the day I dropped the bike while putting it on the center stand and snapped the clutch lever, I replaced it with a non genuine one from ebay
Sounds like the non-OEM lever is causing problems by not allowing the master to breathe through the bleed hole, thus allowing the clutch to remain slightly pumped up.

Someone else recently had the same problem.

Tom
 

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no i hav'nt taken off the clutch cover. It's a wet clutch and so would need to drain the engine oil.
You can service the clutch without draining the oil if you work on it with the bike on its side stand. If you are working on both the clutch pac and the slave at the same time, yes, you will need to drain the oil.
 

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How about just opening the bleeder at the slave cylinder, to release any pressure? Then check to see if the wheel turns while in gear. If it is now engaged, the MC return port is definitely blocked.
I had a 95 900 that had gotten water in the slave system, piston spring had rusted. A flake of rust clogged the return port, and stopped the clutch releasing. I had just bought the bike recently, but things happen, worth a check.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sounds like the non-OEM lever is causing problems by not allowing the master to breathe through the bleed hole, thus allowing the clutch to remain slightly pumped up.

Someone else recently had the same problem.

Tom
I did as suggested and relieved the pressure at the bleeder on the slave cylinder and I can now stall the bike by slowly releasing the clutch while keeping the foot brake on. It seems as if the problem is solved by releasing the pressure, however, there must be something with the way i installed the non original clutch lever that has slowly created the problem. How do I make the adjustment at the clutch lever or find the adjuster that affects the ability of the fluid flowing back to the master cylinder?
 

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There is a screw that is adjustable where it makes contact with the plunger going into the clutch master cylinder. You should be able to back that screw out 1 turn and see if that helps.
 

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Just get an OEM lever back on and carry that one for a spare in case you need it to get you back home. Good thing it wasn't the brake lever!
 

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Just get an OEM lever back on and carry that one for a spare in case you need it to get you back home. Good thing it wasn't the brake lever!
The lever it self doesn't matter, it's where the plunger is set in it that counts. If it's screwed in too much, it will not return enough to expose the bleed hole in the cylinder, and the fluid will not return to the reservoir when the lever is disengaged/slave piston pushes back, that's why releasing the pressure in the system caused by the slave pushing back against fluid that can't return, allowed the push rod to return away from the pressure plate. But it will happen again if the clutch m/c plunger is not srewed out a bit. There's a point between getting the plunger screwed in enough so the clutch won't drag, and too much that the fluid won't return. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The chain is still on. I am going to do what Stryder said and take off the clutch lever and adjust the plunger back one turn and see how the clutch feels. If the bike runs well after that it will be a matter of time to use the bike enough to see if the problem returns. I hope it wont.
The reason I purchased the non OEM lever was price. $40 compared with $180. I know some would call it sacriledge but my wallet called it affordable and the bike was up and running quickly.
 
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