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Issues with battery

5794 Views 35 Replies 10 Participants Last post by curveman99, Feb 15, 2022

SJTrance

Discussion Starter · Sep 7, 2012

So, I've been noticing that my bike dies pretty easily on cold startups. It all started after that one time I let the stock battery die on me. Now, after I installed an aftermarket air filter, it's gotten worse. Twice now, the bike dies at idle and the battery is dead. A push start restarts the bike and runs fine. I have to run my idle a bit high to keep it from stalling.

Now, I'm assuming that the increased air flow from the BCM filter is causing some fueling issues. I'd rather not have to purchase a PCIII. Hell, if it would solve the situation, I'd go back to the stock air filter. The cover isn't cut or anything like that.

I just ordered the Shorai Lithium Iron LiFePO4 Battery LFX18L1-BS12 battery. I wanted to get that anyway. Hopefully, it will fix everything. Any thoughts?

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SwiftFF5

· #21 · Sep 14, 2012

steveb64 said:
Just had (remembered) another thought re your problem - try inserting a low wattage (8-10W) bulb in series with your charger. It should drop the current enough that it'll still trickle charge the battery, without overcharging it. Cheap fix.

A better fix is to put the charger on a timer and just have it come on for a couple of hours per day. You might have to experiment a little to find out how long to leave it on to keep it charged without overcharging and drying out the battery.

SJTrance

Discussion Starter · #22 · Sep 15, 2012

Steve! Thanks for the links, man. I'm going to read it all tonight.

So, I tried to start the bike today and it started to my surprise. The bike then died and the lights quickly dimmed and wouldn't start again. So, I can't check the voltage on it with the bike running just yet. I tried to have a friend push start it and that didn't work either. The lights quickly died to nothing. I have it hooked up to a quick charger and headlight is on dimmly. I'll leave it on for a minute and see what happens. Then, I may keep it on a trickle charger during the night. I think this one is going to the shop.

steveb64

· #23 · Sep 15, 2012

SJTrance said:
Steve! Thanks for the links, man. I'm going to read it all tonight.

So, I tried to start the bike today and it started to my surprise. The bike then died and the lights quickly dimmed and wouldn't start again. So, I can't check the voltage on it with the bike running just yet. I tried to have a friend push start it and that didn't work either. The lights quickly died to nothing. I have it hooked up to a quick charger and headlight is on dimmly. I'll leave it on for a minute and see what happens. Then, I may keep it on a trickle charger during the night. I think this one is going to the shop.

You're welcome. I'm picking up some handy tips along the way too!

Slow (trickle) charging is MUCH better for batteries than dumping in a lot of amps all at once. Sleep on it, and try again tomorrow, when it'll at least start and run... Then you can at least measure the 'running' voltage across the battery.

Good idea re taking it to a shop - I get the feeling you're somewhat unsure of yourself electrically/mechanically. At least you can specify that they test the stator output AND the regulator, which should avoid you having to pay for unnecessary parts.

SJTrance

Discussion Starter · #24 · Sep 15, 2012

steveb64 said:
You're welcome. I'm picking up some handy tips along the way too!

Slow (trickle) charging is MUCH better for batteries than dumping in a lot of amps all at once. Sleep on it, and try again tomorrow, when it'll at least start and run... Then you can at least measure the 'running' voltage across the battery.

Good idea re taking it to a shop - I get the feeling you're somewhat unsure of yourself electrically/mechanically. At least you can specify that they test the stator output AND the regulator, which should avoid you having to pay for unnecessary parts.

Yeah, I am not mechanically learned. But I can be. Every time something like this happens, I end up learning everything about it. Still, I have no experience in doing anything like this myself.

steveb64

· #25 · Sep 15, 2012

SJTrance said:
Yeah, I am not mechanically learned. But I can be. Every time something like this happens, I end up learning everything about it. Still, I have no experience in doing anything like this myself.

I'm not a 'professionally trained' mechanic myself (well with batteries I am - as a Telecom tech many years ago...). But I've been fixing my own vehicles (and 'stuff ups'

) for many years. Sometimes you get to learn the hard way.

Did my valve clearances on my Duc a year or so back. Probably took about 3 times longer than an experienced mechanic - and a lot more nervous sweat

- but with the help of the internet, and LOTS of double checking - got them done spot on! And I'm still learning new stuff!

Just remember that when you're doing something that you're not sure about - Google and You Tube can be your friend! Just make sure you type in a few variations of whatever it is you're searching for info on.

CaribooBC

· #26 · Sep 15, 2012

SJTrance said:
Yeah, I am not mechanically learned. But I can be. Every time something like this happens, I end up learning everything about it. Still, I have no experience in doing anything like this myself.

Ducati: Turning riders into mechanics since the dawn of motorcycling!

curveman99

· #27 · Sep 15, 2012

Something you should do is put a switch on the headlight so you can turn it off when starting the bike. That light draws some amps!!! I put my switch at the light plug on the bulb....

steveb64

· #28 · Sep 16, 2012

curveman99 said:
Something you should do is put a switch on the headlight so you can turn it off when starting the bike. That light draws some amps!!! I put my switch at the light plug on the bulb....

Good idea. Another option is from the 'dull headlight thread' http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/142378-headlight-dull.html#post1407958

Using a 'normally closed' relay activated from the starter solenoid (start button) wire. When you hit the start, it activates the solenoid AND the relay, which opens, and disconnects the power to the lights.

See the thread for the full details and wiring. I'm planning to set this (full relay setup) up on my bike!

SJTrance

Discussion Starter · #29 · Sep 16, 2012

So, the bike started right up in the morning after the charge during the night. Rode the bike around for a little bit and then decided to check the voltage. In the morning, before I rode, I checked the voltage with the bike turned completely off. It read 13.5 or so. Then, once I started it, it went down to about 12 volts. After my ride, I checked the voltage with the bike running and it read 10 volts and as I revved the bike further the voltage went further down to 9 volts. Then, the tach died and it was no longer working. As soon as I let the idle go back down to the lowest idle setting, the bike stalled and would not start again.

I towed it to a shop and I'm waiting for them to take a look at it on Tuesday.

*** I borrowed my friend's GSXR 750 for the weekend and really got to know it. What a fun bike that is once I got used to it. So effortless to go fast in the straights as well as through the twisties. Still, I missed my bike and actually prefer to work harder to go fast on a slower bike. Plus, my girl did not like two up on the Gixxer at all. She wants me to get my Ducati working again ASAP. She said that I better not get any ideas about getting rid of the 900SS.

***

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steveb64

· #30 · Sep 17, 2012

Fair enough. At least you know enough about it now to not let them feed you too much bullshit about what needs replacing.

*** I borrowed my friend's GSXR 750 for the weekend and really got to know it. What a fun bike that is once I got used to it. So effortless to go fast in the straights as well as through the twisties. Still, I missed my bike and actually prefer to work harder to go fast on a slower bike.

That's why I don't like riding my wife's Bandit 1200S. And prefer MY bike!

SJTrance

Discussion Starter · #31 · Sep 24, 2012

OK, so the bike is apparently fixed. It was a simple matter of a blown fuse. Apparently the "large 40A fuse" was blown and the replacement of it fixed the problem. Thank god it was a simple fix. Let's hope that it doesn't happen again. I haven't had a chance to really ride it since I got it back. Maybe later this week. Any idea where I can get that specific fuse? The shop only had a large 30A fuse and they said that I should get the proper fuse before I take it out. They said that I can find it at pep boys.

steveb64

· #32 · Sep 24, 2012

SJTrance said:
OK, so the bike is apparently fixed. It was a simple matter of a blown fuse. Apparently the "large 40A fuse" was blown and the replacement of it fixed the problem. Thank god it was a simple fix. Let's hope that it doesn't happen again. I haven't had a chance to really ride it since I got it back. Maybe later this week. Any idea where I can get that specific fuse? The shop only had a large 30A fuse and they said that I should get the proper fuse before I take it out. They said that I can find it at pep boys.

Hmmm - the question now, is WHY did that fuse blow? That's NOT a common one to die! If I was you - I'd be VERY careful for your next few rides, and keep checking that it's OK!

Found it! Read this thread... http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/112149-98-900ss-40amp-fuse-keeps-blowing.html

Did the shop have the apprentice on your bike? Bit of a basic thing to miss! Generally, if a fuse blows (particularly a 40A one), there's something MAJOR wrong!

Go and kick them!

They OWE you one!

SJTrance

Discussion Starter · #33 · Sep 24, 2012

Actually, now that I think about it, the positive terminal did touch the negative causing a spark when I installed the new battery. The problem was more acute after that. I think that could have caused the fuse failure.

Edit: they said that they checked all other electricals with a meter to make sure the problem wasn't elsewhere and found everything normal. Now, I would need to order a few 40A fuses to carry on my ride to make sure I won't get stranded.

steveb64

· #34 · Sep 24, 2012

SJTrance said:
Actually, now that I think about it, the positive terminal did touch the negative causing a spark when I installed the new battery. The problem was more acute after that. I think that could have caused the fuse failure.

Edit: they said that they checked all other electricals with a meter to make sure the problem wasn't elsewhere and found everything normal. Now, I would need to order a few 40A fuses to carry on my ride to make sure I won't get stranded.

How did you manage to touch the two terminals together? And for the fuse to blow, you'd have had to touch the output side of the fuse to an earth (frame - negative side of battery) somehow.

I'd order at least TWO fuses.

Well, if they've tested everything? You should be OK... ...fingers crossed!

Next time you install your battery, fit the positive (RED) terminal first. Make sure the negative (BLACK - earth wire) doesn't touch the negative terminal on the battery until you've finished with the positive one. Then if your screwdriver touches something on the frame, while you're doing the screws up, no sparks!
Note: It doesn't matter if the screwdriver touches the frame while tightening up the negative. It's already connected to the frame!

When you're removing the battery, remove the negative lead FIRST! Then the positive. Same reason.

At least now - if you have the same problem (fuse blown) again - you'll know where to start...

Have you checked the voltage across the battery while its running yet? If it isn't 14 volts or so (with a bit of a rev) - they told a porky...

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newguy750SS

· #35 · Sep 25, 2012

Excellent choice

This was the single best choice I've made for this bike in a long time:

ShoraiUsa - 750 SS ElecStart

Way lighter than stock - fired up instantly right out of the box. Well worth the price!

curveman99

· #36 · Feb 15, 2022

Winter Battery trickle charger.
Just bought a New AGM battery last summer, I think it’s a better idea to just bring the battery inside for the winter months.

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