A better fix is to put the charger on a timer and just have it come on for a couple of hours per day. You might have to experiment a little to find out how long to leave it on to keep it charged without overcharging and drying out the battery.
Issues with battery
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Steve! Thanks for the links, man. I'm going to read it all tonight.
So, I tried to start the bike today and it started to my surprise. The bike then died and the lights quickly dimmed and wouldn't start again. So, I can't check the voltage on it with the bike running just yet. I tried to have a friend push start it and that didn't work either. The lights quickly died to nothing. I have it hooked up to a quick charger and headlight is on dimmly. I'll leave it on for a minute and see what happens. Then, I may keep it on a trickle charger during the night. I think this one is going to the shop.
So, I tried to start the bike today and it started to my surprise. The bike then died and the lights quickly dimmed and wouldn't start again. So, I can't check the voltage on it with the bike running just yet. I tried to have a friend push start it and that didn't work either. The lights quickly died to nothing. I have it hooked up to a quick charger and headlight is on dimmly. I'll leave it on for a minute and see what happens. Then, I may keep it on a trickle charger during the night. I think this one is going to the shop.
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You're welcome. I'm picking up some handy tips along the way too!
Slow (trickle) charging is MUCH better for batteries than dumping in a lot of amps all at once. Sleep on it, and try again tomorrow, when it'll at least start and run... Then you can at least measure the 'running' voltage across the battery.
Good idea re taking it to a shop - I get the feeling you're somewhat unsure of yourself electrically/mechanically. At least you can specify that they test the stator output AND the regulator, which should avoid you having to pay for unnecessary parts.
Yeah, I am not mechanically learned. But I can be. Every time something like this happens, I end up learning everything about it. Still, I have no experience in doing anything like this myself.You're welcome. I'm picking up some handy tips along the way too!
Slow (trickle) charging is MUCH better for batteries than dumping in a lot of amps all at once. Sleep on it, and try again tomorrow, when it'll at least start and run... Then you can at least measure the 'running' voltage across the battery.
Good idea re taking it to a shop - I get the feeling you're somewhat unsure of yourself electrically/mechanically. At least you can specify that they test the stator output AND the regulator, which should avoid you having to pay for unnecessary parts.
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I'm not a 'professionally trained' mechanic myself (well with batteries I am - as a Telecom tech many years ago...). But I've been fixing my own vehicles (and 'stuff ups'
) for many years. Sometimes you get to learn the hard way. Did my valve clearances on my Duc a year or so back. Probably took about 3 times longer than an experienced mechanic - and a lot more nervous sweat - but with the help of the internet, and LOTS of double checking - got them done spot on! And I'm still learning new stuff!Just remember that when you're doing something that you're not sure about - Google and You Tube can be your friend! Just make sure you type in a few variations of whatever it is you're searching for info on.
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162 Posts
Ducati: Turning riders into mechanics since the dawn of motorcycling!
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1,400 Posts
Something you should do is put a switch on the headlight so you can turn it off when starting the bike. That light draws some amps!!! I put my switch at the light plug on the bulb....
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2,504 Posts
Good idea. Another option is from the 'dull headlight thread' http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/142378-headlight-dull.html#post1407958
Using a 'normally closed' relay activated from the starter solenoid (start button) wire. When you hit the start, it activates the solenoid AND the relay, which opens, and disconnects the power to the lights.
See the thread for the full details and wiring. I'm planning to set this (full relay setup) up on my bike!
So, the bike started right up in the morning after the charge during the night. Rode the bike around for a little bit and then decided to check the voltage. In the morning, before I rode, I checked the voltage with the bike turned completely off. It read 13.5 or so. Then, once I started it, it went down to about 12 volts. After my ride, I checked the voltage with the bike running and it read 10 volts and as I revved the bike further the voltage went further down to 9 volts. Then, the tach died and it was no longer working. As soon as I let the idle go back down to the lowest idle setting, the bike stalled and would not start again.
I towed it to a shop and I'm waiting for them to take a look at it on Tuesday.
*** I borrowed my friend's GSXR 750 for the weekend and really got to know it. What a fun bike that is once I got used to it. So effortless to go fast in the straights as well as through the twisties. Still, I missed my bike and actually prefer to work harder to go fast on a slower bike. Plus, my girl did not like two up on the Gixxer at all. She wants me to get my Ducati working again ASAP. She said that I better not get any ideas about getting rid of the 900SS. ***
I towed it to a shop and I'm waiting for them to take a look at it on Tuesday.
*** I borrowed my friend's GSXR 750 for the weekend and really got to know it. What a fun bike that is once I got used to it. So effortless to go fast in the straights as well as through the twisties. Still, I missed my bike and actually prefer to work harder to go fast on a slower bike. Plus, my girl did not like two up on the Gixxer at all. She wants me to get my Ducati working again ASAP. She said that I better not get any ideas about getting rid of the 900SS.
***OK, so the bike is apparently fixed. It was a simple matter of a blown fuse. Apparently the "large 40A fuse" was blown and the replacement of it fixed the problem. Thank god it was a simple fix. Let's hope that it doesn't happen again. I haven't had a chance to really ride it since I got it back. Maybe later this week. Any idea where I can get that specific fuse? The shop only had a large 30A fuse and they said that I should get the proper fuse before I take it out. They said that I can find it at pep boys.
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Hmmm - the question now, is WHY did that fuse blow? That's NOT a common one to die! If I was you - I'd be VERY careful for your next few rides, and keep checking that it's OK!
Found it! Read this thread... http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/112149-98-900ss-40amp-fuse-keeps-blowing.html
Did the shop have the apprentice on your bike? Bit of a basic thing to miss! Generally, if a fuse blows (particularly a 40A one), there's something MAJOR wrong!
Go and kick them!
They OWE you one! Actually, now that I think about it, the positive terminal did touch the negative causing a spark when I installed the new battery. The problem was more acute after that. I think that could have caused the fuse failure.
Edit: they said that they checked all other electricals with a meter to make sure the problem wasn't elsewhere and found everything normal. Now, I would need to order a few 40A fuses to carry on my ride to make sure I won't get stranded.
Edit: they said that they checked all other electricals with a meter to make sure the problem wasn't elsewhere and found everything normal. Now, I would need to order a few 40A fuses to carry on my ride to make sure I won't get stranded.
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2,504 Posts
How did you manage to touch the two terminals together? And for the fuse to blow, you'd have had to touch the output side of the fuse to an earth (frame - negative side of battery) somehow.
I'd order at least TWO fuses.
Well, if they've tested everything? You should be OK... ...fingers crossed!
Next time you install your battery, fit the positive (RED) terminal first. Make sure the negative (BLACK - earth wire) doesn't touch the negative terminal on the battery until you've finished with the positive one. Then if your screwdriver touches something on the frame, while you're doing the screws up, no sparks!
Note: It doesn't matter if the screwdriver touches the frame while tightening up the negative. It's already connected to the frame!
When you're removing the battery, remove the negative lead FIRST! Then the positive. Same reason.
At least now - if you have the same problem (fuse blown) again - you'll know where to start...
Have you checked the voltage across the battery while its running yet? If it isn't 14 volts or so (with a bit of a rev) - they told a porky...
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110 Posts
Excellent choice
This was the single best choice I've made for this bike in a long time:
ShoraiUsa - 750 SS ElecStart
Way lighter than stock - fired up instantly right out of the box. Well worth the price!
This was the single best choice I've made for this bike in a long time:
ShoraiUsa - 750 SS ElecStart
Way lighter than stock - fired up instantly right out of the box. Well worth the price!
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1,400 Posts
Winter Battery trickle charger.
Just bought a New AGM battery last summer, I think it’s a better idea to just bring the battery inside for the winter months.
Just bought a New AGM battery last summer, I think it’s a better idea to just bring the battery inside for the winter months.
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