Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

Issues with battery

5799 Views 35 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  curveman99
So, I've been noticing that my bike dies pretty easily on cold startups. It all started after that one time I let the stock battery die on me. Now, after I installed an aftermarket air filter, it's gotten worse. Twice now, the bike dies at idle and the battery is dead. A push start restarts the bike and runs fine. I have to run my idle a bit high to keep it from stalling.

Now, I'm assuming that the increased air flow from the BCM filter is causing some fueling issues. I'd rather not have to purchase a PCIII. Hell, if it would solve the situation, I'd go back to the stock air filter. The cover isn't cut or anything like that.

I just ordered the Shorai Lithium Iron LiFePO4 Battery LFX18L1-BS12 battery. I wanted to get that anyway. Hopefully, it will fix everything. Any thoughts?
1 - 13 of 36 Posts
How old is the current battery? Tried using a 'battery tender' to trickle charge it while not riding?

Ahhh - just spotted the key phrase - "I let the stock battery die on me". That'll do it. Yep - new battery time. Run a lead-acid battery too flat, and that's that! The plates sulphate up, and it'll never charge properly again. DAMHIK...
I've read that on these forums. In fact, I've let the battery die twice so far. So definitely, it's gotta be bad.

Is the charging system actually charging the battery?

the stator and RR output must be checked
I've been wondering this as well. If the Shorai doesn't work, this must be the issue. It works fine most of the time, but only when cruising around at low idle speeds. I've been meaning to get the Shorai anyway. Let's see what happens. (PS: PM replied :))
OK, Multimeter on order! Thanks.
Does anyone know if the shorai needs to be charged first? Can I just pop that in and party hardy?

Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
Just as advertised. Bike started right up. I had to use the choke to get it to not stall from a cold start, but rode just fine. It stalled one time on the ride, but this is much better than it used to be. It was a very short ride and I'll let you guys know more after a good ride.
Well, it's not the battery because the bike stalled just like it did with the fast idle set at low after a 10 minute ride and the bike would not start up again. So, there is something going on with the bike's ability to recharge the batter when it's riding. There's a drag on the battery. I do have a cigarette adapter mounted onto the bike. I'll check the voltage on it soon and let you know what it says on the multimeter.
It doesn't crank at all. It stalled and I paused about 30 secs to start it again. Then, nothing. Like the battery is dead. I know that if I push start it again, it will work fine and as long as I keep the idle/choke set a little high, everything is fine. Also, if I jump the battery, it's fine too.

edit: I have the multimeter. I'll play with it this weekend and see whats up.
Ok - it does sound more likely electrical than anything else. Sadly, probably the rectifier/regulator... Good luck!
Damn, is this a complicated issue? Expensive?
Steve! Thanks for the links, man. I'm going to read it all tonight.

So, I tried to start the bike today and it started to my surprise. The bike then died and the lights quickly dimmed and wouldn't start again. So, I can't check the voltage on it with the bike running just yet. I tried to have a friend push start it and that didn't work either. The lights quickly died to nothing. I have it hooked up to a quick charger and headlight is on dimmly. I'll leave it on for a minute and see what happens. Then, I may keep it on a trickle charger during the night. I think this one is going to the shop.
You're welcome. I'm picking up some handy tips along the way too! :)

Slow (trickle) charging is MUCH better for batteries than dumping in a lot of amps all at once. Sleep on it, and try again tomorrow, when it'll at least start and run... Then you can at least measure the 'running' voltage across the battery.

Good idea re taking it to a shop - I get the feeling you're somewhat unsure of yourself electrically/mechanically. At least you can specify that they test the stator output AND the regulator, which should avoid you having to pay for unnecessary parts.
Yeah, I am not mechanically learned. But I can be. Every time something like this happens, I end up learning everything about it. Still, I have no experience in doing anything like this myself.
So, the bike started right up in the morning after the charge during the night. Rode the bike around for a little bit and then decided to check the voltage. In the morning, before I rode, I checked the voltage with the bike turned completely off. It read 13.5 or so. Then, once I started it, it went down to about 12 volts. After my ride, I checked the voltage with the bike running and it read 10 volts and as I revved the bike further the voltage went further down to 9 volts. Then, the tach died and it was no longer working. As soon as I let the idle go back down to the lowest idle setting, the bike stalled and would not start again.

I towed it to a shop and I'm waiting for them to take a look at it on Tuesday.

*** I borrowed my friend's GSXR 750 for the weekend and really got to know it. What a fun bike that is once I got used to it. So effortless to go fast in the straights as well as through the twisties. Still, I missed my bike and actually prefer to work harder to go fast on a slower bike. Plus, my girl did not like two up on the Gixxer at all. She wants me to get my Ducati working again ASAP. She said that I better not get any ideas about getting rid of the 900SS. :) ***
See less See more
OK, so the bike is apparently fixed. It was a simple matter of a blown fuse. Apparently the "large 40A fuse" was blown and the replacement of it fixed the problem. Thank god it was a simple fix. Let's hope that it doesn't happen again. I haven't had a chance to really ride it since I got it back. Maybe later this week. Any idea where I can get that specific fuse? The shop only had a large 30A fuse and they said that I should get the proper fuse before I take it out. They said that I can find it at pep boys.
Actually, now that I think about it, the positive terminal did touch the negative causing a spark when I installed the new battery. The problem was more acute after that. I think that could have caused the fuse failure.

Edit: they said that they checked all other electricals with a meter to make sure the problem wasn't elsewhere and found everything normal. Now, I would need to order a few 40A fuses to carry on my ride to make sure I won't get stranded.
1 - 13 of 36 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.