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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Reason I ask is I tryed the 12pt 28mm socket I got today in the HArbor Freight socket set and I notice it's not a snug fit. Feels almost like it one size smaller but 27mm is just too small. Seems really odd. Is the nut maybe really standard or some oddball Italian unit of measurement? :)
 

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grendels_arm said:
Reason I ask is I tryed the 12pt 28mm socket I got today in the HArbor Freight socket set and I notice it's not a snug fit. Feels almost like it one size smaller but 27mm is just too small. Seems really odd. Is the nut maybe really standard or some oddball Italian unit of measurement? :)
just checked my toolbox - 28mm.
 

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But the advantage of not being tight is that the socket acts like one of the "new style" that are designed to bear weight on the flats of the nut rather than the corners! So you are actually better off...keep telling yourself that!
 

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grendels_arm said:
Reason I ask is I tryed the 12pt 28mm socket I got today in the HArbor Freight socket set and I notice it's not a snug fit. Feels almost like it one size smaller but 27mm is just too small. Seems really odd. Is the nut maybe really standard or some oddball Italian unit of measurement? :)
Grab ye olde calipers or measuring stick.
 

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One thing to think about is that most sockets are "rounded off" at the end, so it´s easy to get it onto the bolts. I had this problem with the rear bolt, since it isn´t very "tall".

I went to a machine shop and had them mill of the first 1" of the socket. After that, it was much improved.

As you can see in this pic.. The end of the socket is rounded off. And your wheel nut is not very tall.. So yu need to mill off the part of the socket that is tappered (right word?)


//amullo
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think I see what you mean. My worst fear is trying to remove the front or rear and rounding off the nuts. I'll try removing nuts first and if I have problems I'll have the local gas station em ground down.
 

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This is what i mean..

The "curved" edge of the socket will not allow for the maximum amount of traction against the nut, so grinding the sloped inside edge will make it easier to transfer power from the socket into the nut.

 

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grendels_arm said:
Reason I ask is I tryed the 12pt 28mm socket I got today in the HArbor Freight socket set and I notice it's not a snug fit. Feels almost like it one size smaller but 27mm is just too small. Seems really odd. Is the nut maybe really standard or some oddball Italian unit of measurement? :)
get some good quality socket(s). your problem is harbor freight, you'll end up stripping the corners especially with a nut that large. go with snap-on, craftsmen, S&K etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I should go buy like a $50 Snap On socket and have it ground down as well? :)

I believe Amullo is probably correct. The problem isn't that the socket and the nut aren't really 28mm. The problem is that the nut is very small in height and therefore you don't get a tight fit.
 

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you shouldn't have to cut/grind down any of your sockets or spend $50 for one socket. good quality 28mm sockets are not that hard to find so check around. i have used all 3 sets snap-on, craftsmen, and s&k. they all fit pretty well. you want to be sure that your socket material won't strip or damage the edges of the nut when you're torqueing. i actually bought the harbor freight set first time around and returned them the same day after seeing the quality of those POS's. Craftsmen and S&K make good quality tools but you'll have to order it from your local hardware store. Shouldn't cost more than $20 for one socket. While you're at it, order the 41mm, 46mm, and a good torque wrench.
 

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This is what i mean..

The "curved" edge of the socket will not allow for the maximum amount of traction against the nut, so grinding the sloped inside edge will make it easier to transfer power from the socket into the nut.

A thread from the dead I know, but this is really the only solution other than buying a dedicated wheel nut socket, which seem to be outrageously priced and generally made from aluminium.

I did a bit of measuring, and the curve/rounded off part you mention (chamfer) is not only on the socket, but also on the nut too - particularly at the corners which is the only point of contact on a 12 pointed socket.

Taking off the measurement of the depth of chamfer on the socket AND the measurement of the depth of chamfer on the nut, leaves only 1mm depth of contact between the two.

People are mentioning tool quality being the issue, but you could get NASA's finest metalurgists to make you a socket in their flagship laboratory out of the most exquisite metals in the world (if you could afford it) but that won't alter the fact that you still have only 1mm depth of contact, which if we're honest, really isn't enough is it boys and girls ?

So let's face it pop fans, the only way forward with this is to get a regular socket machined flat.

Here's my 28mm front and 30mm rear I had machined earlier today . . .
 

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Here's my rear end sockets, also ground down.
Nice
They could be even lower, so when you are using them they don't tilt and slip.
Yes I agree.
I said to the guy that if he was working from the side, then to cut them lower for that reason because it would have taken the same amount of work.
He worked from the front face though, so it would have taken a lot of work to cut them down to the desired minimal requirement.
 

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Wall drive or flat drive for me

I use one of these 28mm Walldrive sockets (or flat drive), it only contacts the flats of the nut, doesn't touch the corners, so there is NO chance of rounding off the nut, it cost me about five fine English pounds (about $7):

walldrive or flat drive socket 28mm

It would be better still if it was ground down to the minimum height required for all of the reasons previously mentioned (tilt/slip/etc).

If you look at the attached pics you can see a recess where each corner of the nut would be.
 

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Yeah that's great Air Duck. Not so much of a problem with the 6 pointed sockets for the reason you mention, but as said before, on the 12 pointed sockets they're only connecting at the corners where the maximum chamfer is.
 

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Bloody handy too...

See attached photos of a very useful splindle/axle holding tool - makes life SO much easier for about 12 fine English pounds! I've used all sorts of sh*t to try and hold the spindle in the past but, hey, the correct tool is the way to go for an easier and less stressful life!

@MarkST: Yaow Brumaaay!!! :D
 

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See attached photos of a very useful splindle/axle holding tool - makes life SO much easier for about 12 fine English pounds! I've used all sorts of sh*t to try and hold the spindle in the past but, hey, the correct tool is the way to go for an easier and less stressful life!
That's a very comprehensive set of pics of your Laser axle alignment tool. Find pic below of mine still in it's packaging.
I've never had a problem using other things to rotate the axle into position, but I got mine for around £4.30 so I went for it. There's no way I'd have paid twelve quid for it. I'll be using it for the first time tomorrow if it's not raining.
@MarkST: Yaow Brumaaay!!! :D
I take it you're in the UK too somewhere ? You're profile doesn't give too much away in that department.
 

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