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Discussion Starter #1
G'day all!
2010 848 with about 80,000 kilometres.
Winter here, and on the cooler morning (10 to 12 degrees celcius) on the commute to work, as soon as any appreciable RPMs is reached (so engine/bike is vibrating), the electrics suffer rapid dropouts until the bike has warmed up. All electrics will cut out - engine, lights, instruments... kick in again as RPSm/vibrations ease off.

So it seems fairly clear that it's a loose connection somewhere, that disconnects under vibration when cold, but after things have heated up and expanded makes enough of a contact to work fine. The second half of the commute to work is without a problem, as is the ride home in the afternoon.

I've gone over as much as I can get to easily, but still no success. This morning took it for another ride after fiddling with a few connectors, and this time had multiple engine light flashes while it was happening. Used TuneECU to get the error codes this afternoon, and was presented with the following:
  • P0120 - TPS malfunction
  • P0230 - Fuel pump relay fault
  • P0351 - Coil 1 circuit malfunction
  • P0352 - Coil 2 circuit malfunction
  • P0481 - Fan 2 circuit malfunction
  • U1601 - CAN line mute node
My guess is that all these errors are a result of the intermittent electrical disconnect, not faults on their own. Bike still ran fine after it warmed up again.

Any hints as to where to look at next would be appreciated, especially if anybody has had symptoms like the above error codes.

Cheers!
Michael.
 

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I had a situation. I cut all the zip ties and went over the whole bike unplugging connectors, cleaning them, then plugging back in making sure I pushed in both sides. I pinched some with pliers for a more secure fit. Clean and tighten your ground points. On my S4RS the ecu grounded to plastic. I ran a ground wire from there to my main battery ground on the frame.
 

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Sounds like a loose ground to me. At least, that’s where I’d start. I’d start at the battery ground points on the frame and work my to the ECM.

After that I’d start with the positive side of the circuit and do the same on the main power feed to the main fuse and fuse box and work towards the ECM. That’s if you don’t find a faulty ground.

If you still don’t find a loose connection then start with the connectors. Cutting zip ties will help as they can put stress on a wire and cause it to unplug inside a connector. Just make sure to do them one at a time.

I had a piece of equipment once that had an intermittent start issue. It was articulated so it would start fine in any position from full left to part right turn and then again from about 1/3 of the way to full right.

I found one wire, in a bundle of about 30 wires all taped together in a protective loom, broken inside its insulation. Took my apprentice and I around a half day to troubleshoot. The only information we got out of the operators was that sometimes it wouldn’t start.

So, if there is a specific point on your commute, where you have a corner or turn where you do something that precedes your electrical issue, you may have something similar going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice, all. I've looked at all main connectors from the battery, including the main earth points. I'll just have to proceed as described along all the wiring/connector points.
The annoying thing is that I have to ride it when it's cold to test. Idling and revving in the driveway works fine, as does whenever the ambient temperature is above 20 degrees C or the bike is already warmed up. Seems to be just the combination of everything being cold, and the right amount of vibration caused by reasonable acceleration on the road.
When I saw the check light turn on I was hoping for a single failure point to identify itself, but no such luck. This was the first time the light came on, though... normally it just cuts out, misfires, then carries on again.
Thanks all!
Michael.
 
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