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Discussion Starter #1
1995 900SS SP - riding along to work, noticed more vibration that normal. Then bam, bike struggles to keep speed, give it more gas, large vibration, forget gas, slows immediately and fast, rear wheel locks, somehow stay up/swerve to a well positioned turn lane. Won't move/start. Major clutch smell coming up. Sit there for a while, wondering what's next. Cools down enough to drive home (after about 20 min).

So, not sure what caused this eventual buildup of heat/friction - do i simply need a new clutch? Something other?

Need advice, thanks!

Chris
 

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do i simply need a new clutch?

it sounds as if the clutch isn't your problem, since
clutches fail in a different fashion.
they simply wear off, and are not able to transfer
the power any longer, resulting in slipperage,
noticeable under load in high gears at first.

i guess the clutch smell is a result of your approach
to keep the bike running against what ever tried
to stop it.

:think:

could be the rear brake, but that would have smelled
also then, and you would have been able to
start the engine once stopped.

:think:

to me it sounds like a major problem with stucking
pistons etc., but then i have spend about all of
my wrenching with two strokes and hope you get
away with this rather easy.

:think:
 

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Sounds like back brake lock-up...would smell same...rotor would be hot as hell :)...does it start now? can you get it into neutral while ignition off, then start?
 

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im with the others on this one, would say brake lock, seized caliper or something along those lines.
clutches slip when worn, there already full engaged when clutch lever is out so are full stuck on anyway.....as for not starting then yes, mushci might be right your motor might be seizing....low oil pressure???
 

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I have had similar symptoms and mine was the rear brake.

My rear pads were close to worn out. Theory is that the pistons sit further out with worn pads and may not release properly then overheat. Been caught like that with the front on a Honda XR600 too.

I replaced the pads and the original rubber hose with braided s/s. No more trouble since but I do keep a closer eye on how much pad material there is now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all -

Bike runs fine, starts when it is seized like today, but as soon as you try to put it in gear, with the clutch fully pulled in, it stalls, like as if the clutch never releases.

I changed the rear brake pads yesterday, fully bled and adjusted the lines, piston seemed to work fine, wasn't at all sticking. In fact, I am pretty sure I didn't use the back brake in my short ride to work during the "event."

I took the clutch plates out tonight and they are rusty, worn, and smell just like the smell I noticed today. Is it at all possible that some how they stay engaged? Question for the night - how many plates should there be - this bike has 8 smooth, 7 (worn) padded, with a double one closest to the engine. Shop manual says 6 or 8? Dunno..

Hmmmm
 

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Clutch slave cylinder? Original or aftermarket unit - leaking?
 

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Is it at all possible that some how they stay engaged? Question for the night - how many plates should there be - this bike has 8 smooth, 7 (worn) padded, with a double one closest to the engine. Shop manual says 6 or 8? Dunno..

Hmmmm

if the clutch would stay engaged all the time,
you could not shift - with the engine running
while the bike is at stand still - without stalling it.

figures to aim for during your clutch rebuild:

package of clutch plates should be 36-38mm thick
minimum length of springs should be 36.5mm

cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Slave cylinder is stock, for that matter, does any one know how far the rod should slide out when the clutch is activated?

And to Muschi - when the bike skidded to a halt, I had a hard time getting into neutral, was stuck, when I did, it started fine but as soon as I pulled clutch in, stuck it into first, bam, stalls dead. Also, couldn't move the bike back or forward when clutch was in either.

 

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Slave cylinder is stock, for that matter, does any one know how far the rod should slide out when the clutch is activated?
The pressure plate should move several mm, and you should be able to rotate it by hand with the gearbox in neutral and the clutch disengaged.

Before you reassemble, check that your transmission isn't blocked. With the bike in gear, the hub should rotate if you rotate the real wheel (or roll the bike).

Tom
 

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It certainly sounds as if something is binding up either inside the transmission, or outside of it somewhere in the final drive. It sounds like your clutch is merely bearing the brunt of that, and is not the problem in and of itself.

Remember - always start cheap and work towards expensive. Put the bike on a stand and turn the rear wheel, like Tom suggests, and see what happens. Do it with the clutch still disassembled, both in and out of gear. Take the transmission sprocket cover off and see what happens in there when the wheel rotates. See if the rear wheel bearings grind and bind, if the tranny feels smooth in every gear, and so on.

I hate to say it, but it sounds like you may have broken off an engagement dog or something. Let's hope not. One of those rattling around loose will sometimes alternately lock up a tranny, then fall to the bottom and let is spin again until it gets picked up once more and wedged into another gear set. Or, there may be a broken shift fork, so it's trying to engage one gear without releasing another. Either scenario really sucks, so let's hope it's something cheap and accessible outside of the tranny.

On my bike, the goofy little spring clamp/washer/retainer gizmo that holds the tranny sprocket on failed. Fortunately no lasting damage, but it did let that sprocket wander around, causing the chain to bind up against the case. Look for stuff like that.
 

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OK, same thing happened to me but I figured it out.

I had washed the bike and let it sit. Bad move!!

Two days later, I wanted to ride the bike but the clutch was sticking. I took it all apart to find that the water had dried between the disks and caused them to stick together. I took all of the seperate disks apart, dried them and put it all back together.

The clutch works perfectly.
 
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