Idling High
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Idle should be in the 1000-ish range. I keep mine about 1100-1200 because of trips to over 10000 feet regularly.
There is an adjustment on the linkage to the throttle bodies, but did it just start doing this out of nowhere? I'd look for binding cables, both fast idle and throttle, before i went and adjusted anything.
There is an adjustment on the linkage to the throttle bodies, but did it just start doing this out of nowhere? I'd look for binding cables, both fast idle and throttle, before i went and adjusted anything.
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308 Posts
Just really notice it this season. Been out for a few rides so far.....
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426 Posts
Ed.
As above, 1st thing to check it that the Hi idle cam down at the thottle body.
It's likley not returning all the way.
One thing you don't want to do it turn the very small headed screw above the throttle body main throttle cam as this will change the TPS setting normaly this screw has Yellow or orange tamper paint on it.
As above, 1st thing to check it that the Hi idle cam down at the thottle body.
It's likley not returning all the way.
One thing you don't want to do it turn the very small headed screw above the throttle body main throttle cam as this will change the TPS setting normaly this screw has Yellow or orange tamper paint on it.
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79 Posts
this might help a little bit
if you remove the air filter and look down the throttle bodies with the butterflies open, you might just see a black ring just about where the butterflies would be if they were closed, use a wet wipe or something like that and remove the ring, the tick over will reduce.
See the screw with the yellow paint on it, is that not the nut/screw on the rod linking the throttle bodies, that you adjust when synchronizing the throttle bodies. If it is you can adjust it to your hearts content when balance the throttle bodies. Unless there is another screw with yellow paint on it.
cheers
gogs
if you remove the air filter and look down the throttle bodies with the butterflies open, you might just see a black ring just about where the butterflies would be if they were closed, use a wet wipe or something like that and remove the ring, the tick over will reduce.
See the screw with the yellow paint on it, is that not the nut/screw on the rod linking the throttle bodies, that you adjust when synchronizing the throttle bodies. If it is you can adjust it to your hearts content when balance the throttle bodies. Unless there is another screw with yellow paint on it.
cheers
gogs
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426 Posts
Heres a link to BikeBoy site.
The link is mostly on throttle body syc and TPS settings but idle is set after those are done on of the biggest pains when setting up injected bikes is everything effects all the other settings so it allot of round and round to get it just right.
BikeBoy.org - Ducati 4V Desmoquattro Non Linear TPS Baseline Adjustment (plus ST3)
About 1/4 way down you'll see a picture of the control side of the TB's. you don't want to mess with #7 screw that set for TPS / plate angle base setting. Yes it will lower your idle but it will mess with other settings.
Its more likely something with #12 not returning to proper rest position.
#12 is the high idle cam or some time called a choke but it not a choke in the traditional way.
The link is mostly on throttle body syc and TPS settings but idle is set after those are done on of the biggest pains when setting up injected bikes is everything effects all the other settings so it allot of round and round to get it just right.
BikeBoy.org - Ducati 4V Desmoquattro Non Linear TPS Baseline Adjustment (plus ST3)
About 1/4 way down you'll see a picture of the control side of the TB's. you don't want to mess with #7 screw that set for TPS / plate angle base setting. Yes it will lower your idle but it will mess with other settings.
Its more likely something with #12 not returning to proper rest position.
#12 is the high idle cam or some time called a choke but it not a choke in the traditional way.
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2,371 Posts
Im having this same issue. Today I turned the hyper on and it was idling at 2.5k. Has never done it and only has 500 miles. What can it be? And how did it get this way?
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5,648 Posts
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/40-sport-touring/140239-throttle-doesnt-spring-back.html#post1384720
Did you bend the bars with the canyon dancer? Throttle cable bent? Tube binding?
Idle should be 1100 - 1200RPM. Didn't you just get a PC3 dyno tuned? I hope you weren’t having this problem when you had it tuned, because now if you screw with the TPS, or any base-line adjustment, your new map isn’t going to be correct. That is the reason people are always recommending to be sure your base line tune is perfect and repeatable (or at least repeatable if not perfect) before dropping the money on a PC3 and custom map. If you have to make changes now, after the tune, it's back to the dyno...
Hopefully this is new problem that wasn't present when you had the map made.
Did you bend the bars with the canyon dancer? Throttle cable bent? Tube binding?
Idle should be 1100 - 1200RPM. Didn't you just get a PC3 dyno tuned? I hope you weren’t having this problem when you had it tuned, because now if you screw with the TPS, or any base-line adjustment, your new map isn’t going to be correct. That is the reason people are always recommending to be sure your base line tune is perfect and repeatable (or at least repeatable if not perfect) before dropping the money on a PC3 and custom map. If you have to make changes now, after the tune, it's back to the dyno...
Hopefully this is new problem that wasn't present when you had the map made.
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8,831 Posts
The idle stop screw is fine to mess with. Gross adjustments will affect the sync, but it is just a stop screw. The TPS screws, thumb wheel on the link rod, and idle air screws are much bigger factors. The EFI is baselined off of the TPS with the throttle fully closed, not cables and the stop screw backed fully out.
That said, a sudden change in idle rpm is probably best fixed by inspection of the system, like Dan notes. I'd think it was related to the Canyon Dancers also.
Have a good one.
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