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Discussion Starter #1
I have recently replaced my in tank fuel filter, and cleaned out the carb bowls (due to rusty water).
Now that the bike is back together, it was idling high and now seems to be running rich.
I have turned down the idle, fixing that issue.
On the open road the bike is fine, accelerating and riding nicely. But around town, it pops and farts and stalls at the lights. Then it seems to clear out on the open road again!
I heard that 3 turns out on the idle is the correct setting?? :confused:
 

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2001 900SSie
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I have recently replaced my in tank fuel filter, and cleaned out the carb bowls (due to rusty water).
Now that the bike is back together, it was idling high and now seems to be running rich.
I have turned down the idle, fixing that issue.
On the open road the bike is fine, accelerating and riding nicely. But around town, it pops and farts and stalls at the lights. Then it seems to clear out on the open road again!
I heard that 3 turns out on the idle is the correct setting?? :confused:
Below is a link to the full workshop manual that includes carb settings.

Download it very soon as the Apple web site where it resides is closing at end June.

Be warned 188 MB file size, so large and slow to download.

Richard

https://files.me.com/yellowducati/c6t4cm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Having trouble with downloading this :(

It could be an issue that the bike shop can deal with.
The old owner has installed a K&N panel filter and removed baffling out of the mufflers, im wondering if this would change the air and fuel mix?

But it was running ok before the rusty water in the tank etc..
 

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Three turns is recommended - but my 95 was set at 2 1/4 turns, stage 1 kit fitted? Wouldnt run at three turns out?

Would recommend POR-15 treatment to your tank before it rots through... ;)
 

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2001 900SSie
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Having trouble with downloading this :(

It could be an issue that the bike shop can deal with.
The old owner has installed a K&N panel filter and removed baffling out of the mufflers, im wondering if this would change the air and fuel mix?

But it was running ok before the rusty water in the tank etc..
Download - I just clicked on the link and it downloaded fine for me.

Maybe the previous owner sorted the carbs for the higher air flow = more fuel needed. Open cans = more fuel needed as well.

I think your last sentence points to the problem as it ran OK before. Could be one or many of a number of things related to the rust and water. Is this all of a sudden or developing over time or has the bike been laid up for a while and hence the rust?

If it was my bike i would strip down and clean everything related to fuel. I.e. fuel tank, pump, filter, pipes and carbs. Definitely change filter and probably pipes. Have a hard look inside your tank to see if it needs sealing with POR-15 Read the info on the "sticky" at the top of this forum about repairing a leaking tank for much more info/advice.
 

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Below is a link to the full workshop manual that includes carb settings.

Download it very soon as the Apple web site where it resides is closing at end June.

Be warned 188 MB file size, so large and slow to download.

Richard

https://files.me.com/yellowducati/c6t4cm
thanks a mil for posting that. I've been looking for one for a while now.
 

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Ahh thanks for posting the link for the manual. About the carbs, seems like if it's popping a lot it is probably running lean. Assuming you didnt change the floats or remove the carbs disturbing the synch or have any other leaks in intake or exhaust, its probably your pilot screw settings. What I would do is set the pilot screws to factory settings(which is usually on the lean side for EPA reasons), make sure the idle is set fairly low (this is important because otherwise you arent running purely on the idle circuit) and turn the pilot screws 1/4 turn each. If the RPM goes up, keep turning another 1/4. Do this until the RPM doesnt go up or the bike starts to stall. Turn the idle screw down and play with the screws some more. If there is no change or it gets worse back them back off and then you are pretty close.
If the rpm's come down slow when you rev it, you are too lean so richen the pilot screws (1/4 turn each at a time).
If they come down really fast and the rpm goes below idle and back up or just cuts out, you are too rich.
At least there's only two carbs, 4 is another story.
 

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Yes, Peter is on the right track. Similar set up on my bike and I was running 5 full turns out on the screws. Many people don't change pilot jets when tuning, and factory settings are ballpark figures, not meant to be anything but a starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
awesome guys, thanks for all the knowledge! I will attempt to strip it back down and go through it to find the issue.
I could be back on to ask more questions! :D
 
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