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I have a button.. BITCHES!
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05 800ss. I got the bike with 6700 miles on it a year ago. It now has 16000 miles on it. I'm almost maxed out chain-wise. I can adjust the chain, at it's tightest point in the middle of the swingarm, to 25-30mm's like the book (and others) say to do. BUT, when I do this, at it's slackest point, I can move the chain up and down 1 1/2-to almost 2 inches. So I'm guessing the chain is toast. My question is, are the sprockets gone also? It's disturbing to see that wide range of tension from it's tightest point to it's slackest. Also, I can pinch the chain at the back of the sprocket and actually pull it off of the sprocket about an 1/8 of an inch. I can offer more info if the right questions are asked. I could also take a picture of the rear sprocket if needed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Rich
 

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Toast.

It sounds like you need a new chain badly, and if you put a new chain on the worn rings the new chain will wear much faster than if you also swapped out the sprockets.

I'd replace all three components at once, as well as add nitrous.
 

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The days are getting longer!
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Does your bike have the stock sprockets? It is possible the previous owner changed the gearing and possibly the chain and did not get the chain length correct. I would always change the sprockets with the chain to maximize the life of these components. You can also use this as a excuse to upgrade your chain to a stronger one and also add some bling sprockets! I searched flea bay and found some decent deals for my ST. Good luck.
 

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Metal...besides your entertaining diatribes...I think this is one of your only technical posts -- just an observation :) Glad to see it!

I think I get the gist of your question but please allow me to ask you a question or two for clarification.

If I get your post, at the correct position (midway between front and rear sprocket) your chain's up and down play is within spec...25mm to 30mm total displacement full down deflection to full up (no excessive force used) ??? If so and the axle marks have not moved aft of safe adjustment range, you are OK.

IF you are beyond safe axle range then chain replacement is a must.

Alternatively, with a micrometer or a good machinist's rule and accurate eyeballs, you can measure pin to pin distance on the chain (or a couple of pins the divide by number of pins for accurate measure) to see if measured distance is greater that amount allowable for your chain.

As to your sprockets, close visual inspection of wear and if any patterns of wear indicate the teeth have curved or bent then definitely swap the sprockets out.

16K is a pretty healthy odometer value to consider sprocket and chain replacement (assuming this hasn't occurred previously). easy DIY. About $200 for front and rear sprocket with a new 520 chain.
 

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I have a button.. BITCHES!
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Discussion Starter #6
Metal...besides your entertaining diatribes...I think this is one of your only technical posts -- just an observation :) Glad to see it!

I think I get the gist of your question but please allow me to ask you a question or two for clarification.

If I get your post, at the correct position (midway between front and rear sprocket) your chain's up and down play is within spec...25mm to 30mm total displacement full down deflection to full up (no excessive force used) ??? If so and the axle marks have not moved aft of safe adjustment range, you are OK.

IF you are beyond safe axle range then chain replacement is a must.

Alternatively, with a micrometer or a good machinist's rule and accurate eyeballs, you can measure pin to pin distance on the chain (or a couple of pins the divide by number of pins for accurate measure) to see if measured distance is greater that amount allowable for your chain.

As to your sprockets, close visual inspection of wear and if any patterns of wear indicate the teeth have curved or bent then definitely swap the sprockets out.

16K is a pretty healthy odometer value to consider sprocket and chain replacement (assuming this hasn't occurred previously). easy DIY. About $200 for front and rear sprocket with a new 520 chain.
Haha....what?




Just kidding. Ok, when I adjust the chain, at the tightest spot, at midway between front and rear sprocket, I set it at 25-30mm's.

Whatever the hell that means.

But, after tightening the axle bolt, when I roll the chain to it's LOOSEST spot, it's damn near 2 inches.

Whatever the hell that means.

So, obviously the chain is gone. The sprockets I'm sure are original. I'm just kinda curious as to why the major difference in chain play. The sprockets are worn, but not hideous. You know, no bent or broken teeth etc. I'm getting no odd side to side motion out of the wheel, so I know I've got it straight.

So, I guess I'm gonna have to park the bi....gal, until I can replace the chain and sprockets. Thanks for everyones help. Any more info would be appreciated. Rich
 

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Metal...besides your entertaining diatribes...I think this is one of your only technical posts -- just an observation :) Glad to see it!
When you actually know most everything there is to know, the only thing to do is entertain the troops with good humor. Others (not you Grimah) have been known to gather 9 months of information to make 6,848 posts, while never introducing a hint of good humor or even common sense sometimes. What can Richie say, he's our really good source of entertainment and well versed life stories, we should be pitching in and starting a "Richies Gold Chain Fund"!

I'll pledge $5 right now. Richie, what's the PayPal addy?????
 
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