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Discussion Starter #1
Relegated to massive stop/go traffic to/from work, and it's impossible to do 160 mph+ without being ripped off the bike from the wind. How's +3 teeth out back?

I don't care about .5mpg, I'm used to driving a Toyota Landcruiser that gets an honest 11/12.

I've already got a 14 on the front side of the chain, but my clutch is actually making a bit of noise(a rub/shutter/screech, so to speak) because of the constant stop/go in my 13 mile daily commute of 22 stop signs or lights....
 

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Relegated to massive stop/go traffic to/from work, and it's impossible to do 160 mph+ without being ripped off the bike from the wind. How's +3 teeth out back?

I don't care about .5mpg, I'm used to driving a Toyota Landcruiser that gets an honest 11/12.

I've already got a 14 on the front side of the chain, but my clutch is actually making a bit of noise(a rub/shutter/screech, so to speak) because of the constant stop/go in my 13 mile daily commute of 22 stop signs or lights....
Have you done any fuel tuning? Changing gear ratios was an early bandage fix for the standard fueling issue. Going -1 at the front and +anything at the rear increases you rpm to keep you about the problem rpm issue area. Fix the fueling and get a better ride.
 

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Well to further popular ideas about tuning... Tuning does help relieve the 3500 stumble but gearing can aid with issues that tuning may not be able to solve such as road speed vs rpm adjustment. Gearing is no replacement for bad tuning, however tuning is not the end all to every thing. I use a 15F and 45R tooth sprocket setup. This is a 3:1 (in terms of sprocket rpm) ratio for final drive. I did have a tune from Doug L. put in so the bike runs smooth and I get the power where I want it due to the gearing. The tune helps the engine work best and the gearing helps achieve the correct rpm to speed ratio as well as giving the drive train a mechanical advantage that lessens the stress on clutches and internal gears. I like to run at 4000 rpm at 65km/hr. 5200 at 120km/hr. The bike is set up nice for me this way. I lose top end but don't care because I have no need on the street to do 225km/hr. Think of tuning as the first step for a good setup and gearing as a rpm vs. speed adjustment. Hope this helps.
 

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I have a 14T on the bench to install... I'll probably go up to a 42 rear when that time comes. I find I'm hammering my clutch around town and there's always that no-man's land speed in between 1st and 2nd. I finally had it in 6th gear last night... of course, I was going 100MPH; otherwise it remains unused.
 

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You guys don't care about the same tooth/same link theory heh?

Basically 14-42, 15-45 and 16-48 combos should be avoided, because the same link always go on the same sprocket teeths, and it is believed to shorten the life of the assembly (uneven wear faster).

Don't know if it's real or a motorcycle myth though.

And for the OP, if you want to add teeths to the rear, you will need to change the chain because it will be too short. So better then put a 15T back on front and add teeths to the rear, like 15-43, 15-44 or 15-46 combos.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great, much appreciated, info as always!

Tuning if definitely fooked(stock everything).

The issues have just really shown up now that I'm not carving through mountain twisties on weekends, I'm using it as a daily driver as well. Thru nothing but 35-55 stop/go two small town and then a big city.... Stop lights, stop sign, traffic.... Etc, etc.

My hypermotard was mildly annoying when used to goto work, but this bike straight up says fawk off and open the throttle or I'm gonna annoy you til you do so!
 

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Bon Vivant
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The streetfighter is a horrible commuter bike. I think you have the wrong tool for the job. I'd get an fz07, verseys, v-strom, gsx or something like that to commute with - keep the SF for the weekends.

I love my SF but I would not commute with it - (or shit-can it with Walmart flat black)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The streetfighter is a horrible commuter bike. I think you have the wrong tool for the job. I'd get an fz07, verseys, v-strom, gsx or something like that to commute with - keep the SF for the weekends.

I love my SF but I would not commute with it - (or shit-can it with Walmart flat black)
rE: rattle can flat black/Walmart/shit can.

That's a stock 2013 848 tank (factory paint) and the rest is carbon fiber stuff... The bike sat in the CA sun all summer for two years. The red was beginning to fade to a dull orange.

Both of my 'commuters' suck at that task. Sacrifices are made for the fun they bring when not used as commuters I suppose.
 

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You guys don't care about the same tooth/same link theory heh?

Basically 14-42, 15-45 and 16-48 combos should be avoided, because the same link always go on the same sprocket teeths, and it is believed to shorten the life of the assembly (uneven wear faster).

Don't know if it's real or a motorcycle myth though.

And for the OP, if you want to add teeths to the rear, you will need to change the chain because it will be too short. So better then put a 15T back on front and add teeths to the rear, like 15-43, 15-44 or 15-46 combos.
You make a good point... However it only applies if the number of sprocket teeth can be divided into the number of links of the chain evenly. EG. 15 (front sprocket teeth) can divide into 105 (number of links into chain) an even 7 times. If you have 111 then the links hit different valleys of the sprocket each time. Same method for the rear sprocket to chain ratio. The sprocket to sprocket ratio just indicates rotational equivalence of the sprockets not were the chain teeth will land.
 

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Bon Vivant
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rE: rattle can flat black/Walmart/shit can.

That's a stock 2013 848 tank (factory paint) and the rest is carbon fiber stuff... The bike sat in the CA sun all summer for two years. The red was beginning to fade to a dull orange.

Both of my 'commuters' suck at that task. Sacrifices are made for the fun they bring when not used as commuters I suppose.
The funny thing is we both have a streetfighter and an SUV - they just seem to be decorated a little differently :smile2:
 

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I wouldn't subject an SF1098 to stop-n-go commuting honestly. You can improve the situation but it will always be like a bazooka in a fist fight. Everything about it is wrong for commuting and it's likely to put premature wear on what is becoming a collectors bike.

My fix for this was to go pick up an inexpensive small displacement Supermoto. That way, gas mileage is great, insurance is cheap, riding position is comfortable, maintenance is non-existent (Japanese) and your u can actually go through the gears around town without getting arrested.
 
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Is there anyway to correct the change in speedo/odo readings when you change gearing? I've heard I of speedo healers before but I have no experience with them.
 

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Just make sure that when you do the new sprockets to get a new chain so that the sprockets and chain are installed as a system.
I use a D.I.D ZVM-X 525 chain and a quick change rear sprocket, all can be bought at the sprocket center. The chain tools are really helpful too.
 

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