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Same. As soon as the idle climbs on its own I back the lever down to keep it about 1500rpm. As soon as I’m rolling I shut the lever off .
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Eh!, enricher, not choke! That make sense.

The way it is, is that "enricher" needs to be on to start up cold, but it won't rev up like it should. And with enricher on for short warm up, it just dies. The cable and the lever are all check out fine, so my next guess is that the enricher circuit may be clogged, maybe not completely but enough to cause problem, possibly? I should have a look at that. The enricher used to have half-way point, but now, it doesn't seem like it has that anymore, if not all the way on, it's completely off, or at least that's what it seems like.
 

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mine definitely has a full on lock & 1/2 on lock on the enrichener lever
 

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Discussion Starter #126
I need to clarify - the lever has the half and full, very distinctive. The effect of the lever in those positions, does not.
 

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then something is is not functioning properly there should be a noticeable difference between the 2 positions
 

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can you see the enrichener lever on the carbs slide back & forth when you move the lever on the bars?--if it does then your problem is most likely inside the carbs----if not it could be the cable or the adjustment of the cable
 

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Discussion Starter #129
can you see the enrichener lever on the carbs slide back & forth when you move the lever on the bars?--if it does then your problem is most likely inside the carbs----if not it could be the cable or the adjustment of the cable
Yep, I can see it moving. Yeah, I think it's something internal. And now I think about it, it used to work fine! I wonder when this has become a problem!!
 

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Did you disassemble the carbs to clean---If so my guess would be then, especially if you split the bank
 

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Do not take the carbs apart yet!
First do some diagnoses on the bike to tell if you are rich or lean, from what you described you are rich and this is why the enrichener kills the bike after a short warm up by flooding it. Most enricheners will up the CO to between 7-8% and then as the bike warms up they get richer and you shut them down. If you are already too rich you may simply be giving it too much fuel too soon.

Before you tear in looking for things to change try some more air/less air tests on a cold motor to see which way it responds best. If with no lid it runs better for longer with the enrichener on then you are getting too much fuel. Better with a closed lid and you are lean. Get some direction from the bike first it is telling you whats wrong if you listen to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Did you disassemble the carbs to clean---If so my guess would be then, especially if you split the bank
The carbs haven't been separated since the first overhaul last year (when I got the bike), but it has been opened multiple times since. And I know that the enricher worked fine then.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
ducvet, totally a voice of reason!! I will do that...duh, why didn't my head go there in the first place!!
 

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Then if it worked and you have not split the carbs for sure dont do it now --It can be slow going to get them dialed in perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
!!!!
I've been trying a lot of things. The airbo lid on, off, playing with idle mixture screws, different fuel, etc. I went through the carbs again (just cleaning), and on and on.

And this is please don't crucify me for my stupidity, but here's what happened.

The enricher cable had a small bit of snag, and I found that it wasn't closing completely, just a tiny tiny bit always open. I honestly don't know how long this has been the case, but it might have been from before I got it. And after I cleared that off, it looks like I fixed multiple things at once. The enricher seems to work properly now (I'll test again later when the engine is cold again). The throttle response is much crispier, and the plugs are looking healthier (horizontal cylinder, clear, vertical cylinder still gets slightly black, this may be another issue, I'll look into it).

It's getting better and better!!! Thanks for all your advice, I'm really happy with the progress!!
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Thought about starting the new thread, but figured I'd just add on here instead.

I was reading other thread about a carbie SS, and someone mentioned that 3k-4k rpm issue tends to be the emulsion tube/needle. I had to think really hard if I'd replaced the emulsion tubes when I initially rebuilt the carbs last year. I don't remember.

Just around the same time, I was trying to figure out what the differences between Dynojet Stage 1 and Stage 2 are. It was just completely out of curiosity, nothing more. Mine came with Stage 2. I got in touch with Dynojet, and they told me that Stage 1 is with stock airbox, and Stage 2 is for open airbox. Through various trials and errors, mine now has stock airbox, but still running Stage 2, and 140 main (not Dynojet main). Hmmm.

After some pondering, I got the Dynojet Stage 1 kit, and I took the carbs apart for the 1000th time (I can do the whole disassembly and reassembly in an hour and half now, even while drinking beer, things you get good at!). I replaced the emulsion tubes with the one that I knew was brand new, installed Stage 1 kit, and the recommended main jet (124 in the kit, for aftermarket slip-ons).

Again, this is just a test, completely out of curiosity, and in the hope that I can smooth out 3k-4k rpm stutter (it's not that bad, really, I just can't stop fettling).

I know that Dynojet has its own number for jets, but even then, 124 orifice looked suspiciously small compared to 140 (from the original rebuild kit) that I was running with the Stage 2 needle. As it turned out, I was right, and with 124 jet, the bike runs okay but feels generally unhappy at almost all rev range, and also distinctively lean up top. So one more time, the carbs came out, kept the rest, but replaced the main with 140. Now it's much better, feels way better adjusted. Much much happier. I really don't understand the 124 main that comes with the kit, that just doesn't make sense.

So now I have another bit of curiosity. I should try the Stage 2 needles that I took out, with this new emulsion tubes to see what it does.

On completely different news, I bought a SSie rear shock for really good price. The stock rear shock on mine must have been at the end of life, because this used shock really transformed the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Last night, I swapped Stage 1 needles with Stage 2 needles, so basically went back to how it was before. And it's much better. Stage 1 needle had lean spot right at 4000rpm at steady throttle, and occasionally abrupt transition at low rev. Generally, Stage 1 setup is way too lean, even for mostly stock bike (only mod is slip-ons). Stage 2 feels on the rich side between 3-4k rpm, but rest feels really good.

Here endeth the experiment.

Maybe the coming cold season (when I plan to disassemble the engine to replace the studs), I should try Factory Pro parts, they seem to have better reputations.
 
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