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My too ran far better with the un-altered lid
 

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Discussion Starter #83
If you’re running a little lean, changing to a stock lid can help.
Yeah, and I really thought I was running too rich! Now it does have really hard time idling when it's cold though.

I need to sort out all the things on my notes, and understand what it's doing. And I'm still waiting for the stupid spark plugs (nobody around here has DR9EA around here). Too much of a jumble right now.
 

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Parts house probably has the Champion plugs for the bike they were OEM, The idle my I have to start with the choke, once started I can turn the choke about 1/2 way off--get on the bike & ride -Takes it 5 min or so until its warm enough to idle by itself--(I turn the chole off as soon as I start moving) Also until it warns up it will cough thru the airbox--But this too goes away within 5 min
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Sorry too far back to read , you have hi compression pistons or a big bore kit?

Why the non-projected reach and 9 heat range plugs?
If better with the stock lid either run that lid and fix the richness at idle or simply fatten up the main jets then maybe needles. You are heading in the right direction at least.
Hi!
No, it's stock engine. The plug, that's what's recommended with the exact-fit coils, so just following that right now. I really need to organize the information that I gathered so far...
 

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Hi!
No, it's stock engine. The plug, that's what's recommended with the exact-fit coils, so just following that right now. I really need to organize the information that I gathered so far...
Not to go all off course on sparkplugs again (!), but those coils were packaged as a negotiated deal with NGK in order to provide the wires with his kit - and sure they are good plugs, but not 7 weeks waiting for them kind of plugs and the temp range is for the hotter running bikes such as hi compression or bored out models.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Not to go all off course on sparkplugs again (!), but those coils were packaged as a negotiated deal with NGK in order to provide the wires with his kit - and sure they are good plugs, but not 7 weeks waiting for them kind of plugs and the temp range is for the hotter running bikes such as hi compression or bored out models.
Huh, so the stock "8" would work fine with the exact-fit coils then? I should go get them today!
 

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Huh, so the stock "8" would work fine with the exact-fit coils then? I should go get them today!
I recommend installing them with a wee bit wider gap, won't give you a number because my experience is nearly all with the Champions, but poke around the forum and you will find some opinions agreeing with this. Sargents definitely mentions this, but so does the Haynes manual.

So many variables at work here, riding temp, track vs street vs canyon, fuel type availability - but, that is an awesome coil set and they can put out a fat spark for sure so a slightly wider gap throws out a larger area to fire.
 

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I've got Champion 8809 plugs that is the number for their power sport plugs that should be stock heat range. I think I got them from Amazon took 2 days and they were in my hands
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Got the new set of plugs. It runs, and it runs well. Except that it doesn't idle when the engine is cold... Once is gets warmed up, it's fine, but it just doesn't idle, even with choke on. Mmmmm...
 

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Hell I doubt any of these damn things idle well when cold --Mine sure as hell does not. Once warned up it's fine but cold nope
 
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Interesting, put more miles on it before changing anything, but I do think something isn't right if the choke lever won't raise the idle enough to stay running.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Okay... I'm not going to say that I gave up, but the weather is too nice.

Since I installed the unmodified airbox lid, it runs quite well. The misfire at the upper-end of the rev is all but gone, the new set of plugs hasn't affected anything (somehow bit quieter at idle? Or I'm just imagining that). 'I think' it's a bit gruff, especially between 3500-4000rpm range (particularly around 3750-ish). I really hates first start up of the day, and it's tricky even with the choke, it needs a good couple of minutes of riding before it idles somewhat okay (if it's on choke for that long just sitting, it just dies, of course. If let go of choke, it also dies, of course), but once warmed up, idle is rock steady at 1100rpm.

In a nutshell, it runs fine, it's fine fine fine. I know it can, and should be better, but like I said, the weather is too nice to fuss over, so I'm just going to call it good for now. Either till it leaves me stranded, or till the winter, when I'm planning to take the engine out (I should replace the studs, mine is all stock, so far so good). In a meantime, I need to figure out what to do about the leaky rear shock. A really good rebuilt seems to cost around $600, maybe I can buy one cheap from ebay or something and have that rebuilt, or aftermarket shock for that price, I need to have a chat with my bank account.

Anyway, thank you for all your input. It really helped me organize the threads of thoughts. You guys rock!
 

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I suspected your bike was heading in this direction, the choke circuit is not right but however it might very well fix itself with more riding time. Check the plugs at 300 miles from installation, verify they look the same and not over lean.

BTW, my choke lever can raise the idle to 4,000rpm although it does balk for the first minute and may stall if the air temp is below 50F and not started for a few days.
 

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If the enrichener does not run right pretty rapidly but it will not idle without it you may have too large a pilot jet, except for a few early years you should have a 37.5 mikuni oem (no aftermarket brands) pilot jet. If you are rich on the pilot I would expect you to have the fuel screws less than 3 turns and if you idle much the plugs will darken. Does not mean you cannot ride it and wait for fall but the condition will get worse as the weather gets warmer.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
If the enrichener does not run right pretty rapidly but it will not idle without it you may have too large a pilot jet, except for a few early years you should have a 37.5 mikuni oem (no aftermarket brands) pilot jet. If you are rich on the pilot I would expect you to have the fuel screws less than 3 turns and if you idle much the plugs will darken. Does not mean you cannot ride it and wait for fall but the condition will get worse as the weather gets warmer.
Sorry - the pilot, 37.5 is the stock. I'm not currently around my notes (or the bike), so I can't confirm for sure what I have, but I recall reading somewhere on the forum that those are too lean, and it should be bumped up to the Euro spec pilot size. Again I can't confirm what I have right now, but I got funny feeling that mine is running 40 or 42.5 or something like that.
 

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I would suggest putting the 37.5 back in and see how it acts, I went thru this on my 91 900SS, I wound up with 42.5 pilots in my bike --BUT My bike is a Euro bike & my carb's numbers are different then the U.S. spec bikes so I still have the factory spec pilots in this bike for what it is.
 
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Discussion Starter #100
I would suggest putting the 37.5 back in and see how it acts, I went thru this on my 91 900SS, I wound up with 42.5 pilots in my bike --BUT My bike is a Euro bike & my carb's numbers are different then the U.S. spec bikes so I still have the factory spec pilots in this bike for what it is.
Huh, when I get home tonight I will have a look at it. Are the US spec Mikuni and Euro spec different? I don't think I came across that info before.
 
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