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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On the centre stand I can run up and down gears no problem, but take her out on the road & I can't up shift ? Any thoughts?

Back ground is I have had a grabby clutch, wasn't fully disengaging when hot, so I replaced Clutch Slave, now I can't up shift, it's like the gear lever is jammed, but on the centre stand with no load it is fine?

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance.

Craig
 

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Just spit balling here...maybe some leftover air in the lines from the slave swap? Is the bore the same for the new slave?
 

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Can you do clutchless up shifts? You know, cut the throttle and lift he shift lever? If so I would bleed the clutch better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Mike,

Would a partially bled system work fine on the centre stand? I am pretty confident there is no air, I will check again though.

Yes clutch slave is a bigger one 30.5mm, it is a little easier to pull in but I didn't have any problems with the lever effort of the stock slave, I changed it because we thought it was not disengaging properly when hot?

Thanks Wonway & Mike

Craig
 

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I remember Shazam mentioning that 29mm was the biggest you would want to go on the slave without changing the master. The larger the diameter, the less throw the slave has, and once loaded the clutch will not disengage if the throwout rod is not pushed far enough.

Other things to check are a bent throw-out rod and your clutch pack height. As the clutch wears the springs push the pack down and it takes more throw to disengage, from the slave.

HTH

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I remember Shazam mentioning that 29mm was the biggest you would want to go on the slave without changing the master. The larger the diameter, the less throw the slave has, and once loaded the clutch will not disengage if the throwout rod is not pushed far enough.

Other things to check are a bent throw-out rod and your clutch pack height. As the clutch wears the springs push the pack down and it takes more throw to disengage, from the slave.

HTH

Geoff
Thanks Geoff,

Throw out rod is fine, checked for rust & straightness.
Clutch pack relatively new, less than 10k kms
I replaced the slave with a new but cheap unit from the Gas Cap Dude on ebay for $60 bucks.

I will go bleed it at the lever & see what happens, thanks again everyone.

Craig
 

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I remember Shazam mentioning that 29mm was the biggest you would want to go on the slave without changing the master. The larger the diameter, the less throw the slave has, and once loaded the clutch will not disengage if the throwout rod is not pushed far enough.

Other things to check are a bent throw-out rod and your clutch pack height. As the clutch wears the springs push the pack down and it takes more throw to disengage, from the slave.

HTH

Geoff
I remember this as well...may not be air in the lines. Just not enough throw.:(
 

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The days are getting longer!
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You can try reducing your stack height also
 

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Life is too short to worry !
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I think the reduced load whilst on the stand allows you to , effectively , do a clutchless change (does it change down as easilly as it changes up ?)
If not I believe your problem rests with the hydraulics.
 

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On the centre stand I can run up and down gears no problem, but take her out on the road & I can't up shift ? Any thoughts?

Back ground is I have had a grabby clutch, wasn't fully disengaging when hot, so I replaced Clutch Slave, now I can't up shift, it's like the gear lever is jammed, but on the centre stand with no load it is fine?

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance.

Craig
If you went with a wider bore slave and now have clutch drag, you may want to adjust the plunger on the clutch lever so it screws in a little more. What you describe, ie clutch drag, is typical when wider bore slaves are added. If you still have the OEM lever you'll need to remove it and dig out the grub/set screw head from under a blob of hardened who knows what before you can back it off so the plunger screw can be turned in slightly. That grub screw strips very easily...very, very easily...it takes a tiny allen key to turn it. Warm things up first. I suggest once you get it exposed and backed off refit the lever and turn the plunger screw in a bit and then with you on the bike, bike on the ground and running see if that creates enough plate separation to shift into gear and not stall it. You may still get a little drag/lurch but as long as it doesn't stall you should be okay. The thing to remember is to not set the plunger screw too deeply as that would cause the return/weep hole in the reservoir to be blocked by the plunger and the slave wouldn't be allowed to fully disengage and you'd get slippage. Good luck. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, tried the burp method. Very easy, got to test yet, nothing noticeable straight away though.

I will remove lever & dig out the epoxy crap & try to adjust the lever.

And I think I will put back the original slave, I will update tomorrow.

Thanks everyone, I have been helping a friend move house, so not much time for the bike.

Craig
 

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If this is indeed a clutch problem any gear selection will be difficult from a standstill without the bike stalling. If it doesn't stall can neutral be selected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If this is indeed a clutch problem any gear selection will be difficult from a standstill without the bike stalling. If it doesn't stall can neutral be selected?
yes no problem? what are you thinking?
 

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Ok, tried the burp method. Very easy, got to test yet, nothing noticeable straight away though.

I will remove lever & dig out the epoxy crap & try to adjust the lever.

And I think I will put back the original slave, I will update tomorrow.

Thanks everyone, I have been helping a friend move house, so not much time for the bike.

Craig
Don't adjust the plunger if you're going to use the old slave. :)
 

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yes no problem? what are you thinking?
I am also interested in hearing what Derek is thinking - he may be onto something here. It may even be the internal shifter lever that is inside the left engine cover. There is an adjustment there that impacts the up vs down throw. Of course, check the external shift lever adjustment and pivot before pulling the cover.

I recently bought a 2000 M750 for a couple grand because the gear shift lever was stuck, but was otherwise perfect. 25 minutes after getting it home I had pulled the left engine cover and found the problem. The gear shift lever internal fork was out of alignment. After readjusting the mechanism and resealing the side cover, it has worked perfectly and did not cost me a penny.

No guarantee that is your problem, but is worth an hour of your time before taking it to a dealer. Google "monster shift lever stuck" and look at the first image that shows up. There are also some good tips on making a puller to get the engine cover off.
 

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Hard to select neutral is a sign the pack is not fully disengaging, due to any number of reasons.

Geoff
 
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