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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After looking at different things for recording video on the bike, I quickly jumped at the GoProHD. It's nice, no need to go into that. But I was still wanting something more. Something that would add to looking back on footage. Then I came upon the SmartyCam. It's a camera with a built in GPS and Accelerometer that takes that data, and if you add a logger to it, that data also... feeds it to the SmartyCam and overlays the data onto your video.

Now when you look at the video you get things that can better show what was going on with the bike as you watch it back. I did not buy a data logger, but I did buy what is called the ECU Bridge. This ties into the ECU CAN line and feeds bike info to the camera. Once wired in you get Speed, RPM, TPS, Engine Temp etc. What remains to be seen is what other channels will come across. The ECU Bridge has setup info for the 1098 and the ECU is compatible to the SF. The only hitch is the pin outs on the 1098 is different than the SF. Color codes do match, so I don't think there will be an issue wiring in.

Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to tap into the wiring? Should I use those "Taps" that crimp onto existing wire? Should I strip, solder and shrink wrap? Or should I try to remove the pin from the plug and see if the wire can be piggy backed onto the pin wire, then lock it back into the dash plug?

Here's a youtube video of the SmartyCam.
YouTube - Sebastièn Diss beim IDM - Motorradrennen am Salzburgring 2009 - inboard AIM SmartyCam

I am a gadget whore.
 

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Looks like a great unit. Interested to hear your experience.

Solder and heat shrink would be best IMO. The t-taps can damage the wire and do not weatherproof the connection.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like a great unit. Interested to hear your experience.

Solder and heat shrink would be best IMO. The t-taps can damage the wire and do not weatherproof the connection.
Cool. One good thing is that the ECU Bridge has a separate cable that you can just wire into the bike, but disconnect the Bridge and move it to another bike. Camera is robust, water proof, has built in LCD screen, water proof connectors, and can pull power from the bike so you don't have to worry about running the onboard battery down. I'll update the post when I get it set up.

Hey, with shrink tube, I would still have to remove the wire from the plug to sleeve it on yes?, or can you slice shrink tube and use it on a wire. I've never done that since I thought you always had to sleeve it over a wire in order to seal it.
 

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You have to cut the wire or remove it from the connector and slide it over. It wont work if sliced. If you are going to buy some, get the kind with the adhesive built in. It flows out and seals the tubing.
 

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Damn that's cool. I thought the Oregon Sci ATC9K had cool bits with the accelerometer and GPS but this is another step up!
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Damn that's cool. I thought the Oregon Sci ATC9K had cool bits with the accelerometer and GPS but this is another step up!
I gets cooler with some more money... If you add the Evo4 Datalogger, you can add analog sensors to the bike. Some of the neat sensors are infrared heat for tire temps, infrared distance for shock movement, gyroscopic sensor for lean angle. The Evo4 is a small datalogger that is fit for bikes. There is also a newer camera out called the SmartyCam GP. This one uses sort of a lip stick camera, with a smaller record unit. SmartyCam is totally integrated, the GP version seems to have a lot of use where you can clip the camera to anything.

If you use the camera in solo mode, you get speed, GPS data, G Force. Oh and the other thing for those who do track days, you get track overlays to show where you are on the track. You have to have the logger to make custom track maps. There's a bunch of material on the website. You can download the software and look it over. Of course since if you have no logger or camera, you cannot access setup features that require talking to either unit, but you can see how deep the analysis software is.

Hooking it up to a car is too easy. The Bridge unit comes with either the OBDI connector or the special DIY kit for the bike. Support is good for both the States (PrecisionAutoResearch.com) is based near Chicago and they are heavily involved with development. The company is based out of Italy. I corresponded with them initially then they handed me off the the US based HQ, who handed me off to the main distributor/research outfit that also sells the units.

I did miss speak previously... the ECU bridge becomes hardwired in. Unless you make a connector for it. For the OBDI user, it's not an issue, but for those who have to custom wire to an ECU CANbus connector, it is.

There is also a setup where the camera will record when the bike is moving. So you dont have to hit buttons. Just ride. Have to see how well that works out. It uses the GPS sensor to do this. Not sure if stop and go traffic will make this an issue. ECU Bridge is wired to switched power, so you dont have to worry about killing your battery.

While the website for PrecisionAutoResearch is not snazzy, they are focused on racing tools. Spoke with them and was very pleased with how they presented themselves and their business. Well, I dont want to oversell this since it isn't even hooked up yet!
 

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Heat shrink tube is great stuff, I'd always choose it where possible but another consideration may be liquid heatshrink. I don't think it is as durable as tubing so may not be the best option for bike electrics but just so you're aware there is such a product.

Believe it may come in a couple of colours other than black. The tube I have is Star Brite Liquid Electrical Tape 1oz. I bought it at Jaycar here in Aust but you might try Dick Smith, Tandy and the like if you want to check it out for this or other purposes.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wiring It In...

Sorry no pics. It's boring seeing wires anyway.

I do have some thoughts on documentation. The manual shows the wiring diagram (same diagram in the shop manual) and instead of showing the dash plug, it just lists off wires with what they are and what color they are in numbered order. But if you go to the dash plug, it is not in the same sequence as the diagram. What happened is that all wires to the headlight/dash are listed, and no pin outs on the actual dash plug exist.

So that leaves me with going by the wiring color code, which should be correct as they tend to use the same code for many of the harnesses. The only wire I need up front is the CAN+ lead. Only other wires are switched power and ground. Might have it operating tomorrow.

I did decide to go with shaving the switched power lead, soldering my lead to that, then using the liquid rubber to coat it good, then wrap it in electrical tape.
 

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If you coat it good with the liquid stuff you are all good. Just make sure you do a good job, and if you tape it like you did it will protect it well.

I briefly looked at the website and especially the Precicion auto site. Looks really nice. I am very interested in finding out more.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wiring It In...

Well after much thought on where to tap things, I did manage to finish wiring things up. There were a few unanswered questions that the instructions did not cover. There is room in the upper part of the dash assembly to hide wiring, but not much. The ECU Bridge is zip tied to the inside left fork leg.

Bike powered up without any errors and runs. So I didn't fry anything thankfully :) BUT... I was not given the cable that allows you to send the config file to the ECU Bridge. The Bridge has to be sent this file to tell it what type of ECU it is transceiving. I suspect it has no file and hence does not do anything until it gets one. Tried to find out what the pin out is on the Bridge so I could hack up a USB cable and just poke the three wires into their appropriate holes, but no luck.

I was going to use 3M Super Sticky Shit to hold the Bridge to the fork leg, but it's a sort of greasy rubberized plastic that will not let anything stick to it. The unit is heat sealed, so you cannot open it to check wiring on the USB port.

I jotted down all the coding for the main plug for the dash. Will also write down the other plug/wire coding so anyone doing any wiring will know what is what without having to repeat this. It seems like when Ducati got to finalizing the dash, they just wrote up a list of shit feeding it and did not care to break it off into the separate plugs for the multi switch, sensors, turn signals and the main plug. Just a list of numbers with the wiring code and the destination name that does not jive with the actual main plug.

Unlike other bikes that usually have a "spare" power lead for heated grips or accessories, there is none that I could find. Tapping off the switched power at the fuse block is not too bad, but you have to run wires from front to back. Ideally if one has their tank off for any reason, that would be a good time to just run a spare power lead to the dash.

If I dont see a cable soon, I may remove it all before heading to North Carolina and just do it again after the trip. I'm glad I did not use the power taps. Those pieces of shit look like they will do more damage than good. Maybe someone makes nicer ones, but I couldn't risk Effing up.

One other neat thing you can do in the SmartyCam application is add a logo to the overlay. So if you wanted to brand all your video with a logo, that is taken care of then instead of adding shit in an editing program. I could have had a skull and cross bones made of bacon as my logo for the trip or of course the ICYS logo :)

If you've read this far, I'm almost done... the other thing I did was PMsd TomTom to see if he had any info on the data port that the bike has. If it is useful for any of this or for feeding a logger. The DDA is an unanswered deal. We know that it is feeding select channels that are recorded to the USB drive. Those would be of interest for DTC data, TPS, Speed etc. Whether those are raw data files that are filtered at the DDA being still a CANbus data stream or what, I dont know but it would seem so. I'll have to inquire with the SmartyCam people since the DDA is on all the newer bikes and their setup is for the original 1098, so they may be updating things that will help also.

Hope I didnt bore the shit out of yaz! :)
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I wasn't able to find a price on their website. How much does this run for?
The SmartyCam Store

First off, dont shit yourself when you hear it...
If you get to the SmartyCam store, there is Euro pricing.
Luckily since it is sold in the US, no VAT/shipping.
I think it was near about $1295 for the SmartyCam with the ECU Bridge.
The camera is about a grand. I think that if you have a SmartyCam and set up the overlays well enough, you can add in movie files from a second GoPro shooting from a different angle once you find a sync point. Sony makes the inexpensive but capable editor called Sony Vegas for $44.

If I was doing track days, I would have a datalogger and the camera. I see no better way of hearing/seeing what is going on with your riding and being able to see specifics on what the bike was doing. They are not the only game in town, there are some other datalogger/camera combos but I felt this was worthy. What better way to see if you are getting results from practice than by looking it over.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I dont want to sell the GoPro, it can be used to augment the SmartyCam.
Got a response back from PrecisionAutoResearch... oversite on providing the USB cable, it's being sent out along with the V mount and camera cot.

7 Days till North Carolina (Im headin up Tuesday)
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hooked Up!

Ok, I wired things right! I surprise me!
Quick Video...
YouTube - My Edited Video

The camera runs off the bikes power.
From what I can tell, it was also in the auto record mode.

Still waiting on the mounts which is similar to a ram mount along with a "cot" that is padded and allows for strapping the camera to the cot using o-ring bands of wubber.
 

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Looks like your other video altough shorter. Borat only comes out once per night, so you are going to have to deal with his lack of replies on this moviefilm :D
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks like your other video altough shorter. Borat only comes out once per night, so you are going to have to deal with his lack of replies on this moviefilm :D
Yeah,, I used the youtube editor to cut off all the black video that I did not intend to have there. Hope to hear back from either PrecisionAutoResearch or the home office of AIM on the updating of the ECU Bridge so that all the data channels that feed the DDA can also be available to SmartyCam. I think it is CAN data, but I dont have an oscilloscope to verify. Do you know?
 
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