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My 1098 swapped 916 is still going well but I do have a small issue that rears it's head now and then, on the horizontal cylinder there is a small coolant stub, on my bike I have this connected to the 916 coolant resevoir by some 4mm i/d hose. due to this being quite a thin hose it eventually gets a hole in it just above the clamp i use to hold it on the stub. It did it again yesterday, this will be the third time i've replaced it since doing the swap.
Hi Chris, try sourcing a hose that is more sturdy. I see you're in the UK, so you might not be able to buy from McMaster-Carr, but their website can help you find options that may be best suited for your use. I attached a screen grab of the selections I made ...
  • For: Coolant
  • Temp: 250-299 (then click "show" so you can also select 300-399)
  • Connection Style: Barbed
  • ID: 1/4" (I believe you need to repeat the search to see 6mm options as it forces Inch)
... that's what my next steps would be...

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Hi Chris,

Thanks for the thoughts on the issue, I've decided as part of a winter refresh I'm going to rework the cooling system to use the 1098 thermostat instead of the 916 one I currently use so will be able to use the proper hose designed for that connection on a 1098.

Chris
 

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Ok guys, so i brought a 1098 race bike that had been put into a 748 (i think) frame.

It was running well and competitively, but i intend to make it a road bike.

SO.... I got myself a 1098 loom from the states and proceeded to start wiring it in.

As a race bike it had no exhaust sensor, no sidestand switch, no clutch switch. However the ECU had been flashed, so i'm assuming i will not need the key sense ring or matched keys etc.

So now with the replacement loom in i have power to the dash, it primes the fuel pump and there's relays clicking in there but it doesn't crank over, or power the solenoid.

I've shorted the sidestand and clutch switch, what am i missing? Do they run diagnostics on other stuff i don't have like the exhaust servo and CO sensor?

I have no LH switchblock either if that matters.

Any help would be appreciated.

DUH! Light bulb moment this morning in the shed....

The race bike had a little plug doofer that replaced the key with the kill switch... when i put the stock loom in i used this as i have no key or LH switchblock.

Turns out i'd not plugged it into the LH switchblock plug... what a muppet... now it cranks
 

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Anyone know of a person or vendor that can remove the immobilizer function in the dash? Preferably based in the US. I was quoted $300 for the job from a dealer.
 

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Anyone know of a person or vendor that can remove the immobilizer function in the dash? Preferably based in the US. I was quoted $300 for the job from a dealer.
For what? 848/1098/1198 bikes immobilizer is originating from the dash. Basically, the dash checks for key and if approved, CAN bus message is changed to indicate immobilizer/key is OK. Then you're allowed to start.

You can go about this multiple ways.

1: Make the ECU ignore immobilizer. Reflash needed. You'll still have the error code.
2: Remove the immobilizer chip in the key, tape it to the immobilizer antenna. Issue gone.
3: Hook up a CAN bus message intercepter that rewrites the immobilizer packet.

If you don't have any keys that are paired to the dash, and/or missing the PIN code for it, there's multiple services available on the interwebz that can extract that information and help you recode keys/chips. I know of a guy in Providence, Rhode Island that does it cheaper than those. I'm also able to do it, however, I'm in EU and thus shipping will be the trouble. There's also the legality of the matter :unsure:

EDIT: Removed stupidity.
 

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I
For what? 848/1098/1198 bikes immobilizer is originating from the dash. Basically, the dash checks for key and if approved, CAN bus message is changed to indicate immobilizer/key is OK.

This only affects the starter button if I understand it right, and you should be able to start the bike by providing 12v to the starter solenoid. I think that was how older bikes had the starter button wired.

You can go about this multiple ways.

1: Make the ECU ignore immobilizer. Reflash needed. You'll still have the error code.
2: Remove the immobilizer chip in the key, tape it to the immobilizer antenna. Issue gone.
3: Rewire starter button to solenoid somehow. You'll still have the error code.
4: Hook up a CAN bus message intercepter that rewrites the immobilizer packet.

If you don't have any keys that are paired to the dash, and/or missing the PIN code for it, there's multiple services available on the interwebz that can extract that information and help you recode keys/chips. I know of a guy in Providence, Rhode Island that does it cheaper than those. I'm also able to do it, however, I'm in EU and thus shipping will be the trouble. There's also the legality of the matter :unsure:
I believe it the immobiliser cuts fuel as well as the starter. It can’t be hijacked simply wiring the starter relay to the start button.
 

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I believe it the immobiliser cuts fuel as well as the starter. It can’t be hijacked simply wiring the starter relay to the start button.
You're right. The ECU definitely should cut more than the starter solenoid. I wasn't thinking straight. Disregard that part.
 

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I haven't been reading through these posts for a while, especially now that searching within a thread no longer works. Is using a Kyalami frame (748R or 998) still the better way to go so you don't have to cut off the crossmember of a regular frame (748, 916, 996), or is that solved by turning the throttle body linkage upside down? Or do you have to turn it upside down regardless?
 

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I haven't been reading through these posts for a while, especially now that searching within a thread no longer works. Is using a Kyalami frame (748R or 998) still the better way to go so you don't have to cut off the crossmember of a regular frame (748, 916, 996), or is that solved by turning the throttle body linkage upside down? Or do you have to turn it upside down regardless?
If using the non kyalami frame, you flip the linkages upside down.

We've got a group buy for a non-kyalami airbox that will work with this engine.
 

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Hi

I find this airbox very nice, very close to the one I’m working on, even if this one is in one piece instead of 2 pieces for my project



I asking myself if choosing between 1 and 2 pieces airbox conception ... not only an aesthetic choice.


in green the direction in which the air box fits into the frame
in red the direction of insertion of the throttles in the intakes pipes


I wonder how to insert the whole (throttle bodies screwed under the air box)


I know it’s possible , because a ton of forum members did that .

but do they manage to mount the block at once, or do they insert the throttles bodies first, then , later the box, and screw the whole out from below, with very difficult access?


I would like to make sure that by choosing a one piece airbox, I can fit it in a block with the throttle bodies, without having to do difficult handling.

in short: let the product be well thought out.

that's why I hesitate

can someone make a video of how we install this air box on the bike?
it would be instructive and it would remove my doubts


Thx

Fab.
 

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I think 2 piece works best, I know someone who has done all combinations. Full RS airbox, std and 748R,

748R top. With bodies under the bottom of the lower airbox.

This allows easy adjustments and easy to remove, replace all parts involved.
 

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this is my opinion too

for a road bike, I choose the solution:
748R upper part
1198 airbox lower part





I projected to make the adaptation between the 2, then I should mold the lower part to redo it in carbon fiber.
 
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