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tell us more about your rear suspension set-up.
After seeing a variety of threads about the two different options, I opted to make a bracket to relocate the rocker pivot point and flip the original 996 rocker, rather than the new rocker design. After an afternoon with some scrap pieces of metal, grinder and welder. I had the bracket done. The rocker was then filed to give clearance and voila. it all fitted together. The ride height adjuster is just an ebay special as the 848 one is non adjustable.
The swinger was from an 848 as I wanted the smaller hub so I could use 996 parts. I had a mate turn up a couple of spacers for the spindle. The rear full floating disc was swapped over from my old setup. The rear brake caliper carrier from my 996 had to to have the locating/sliding peg moved so I could run the smaller diameter disc (996 disc smaller than 848). So drilled/tapped new hole for that. if you look at the pic facing the disc in my earlier post you can see the carrier is now slightly clockwise. The caliper I also shaved a couple of mm from the outside as it was so close to the spokes on the mag wheels I was not happy. All good now and no chance of any interference if there should be any flex in anything. I also put a 748R rear sprocket on as I wanted 520 chain rather than 525.
Out on the road it is good, but the plan is to eventually get some 30 degree rake yokes so needed the longer arm.
 

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Picked up a set of FG 016 Ohlins from a mate that had smacked his RSV4. Need some work as they took quite a hit but not a problem as I have a mate that works for ohlins. This'll happen later in the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,024 (Edited)
Picked up a set of FG 016 Ohlins from a mate that had smacked his RSV4. Need some work as they took quite a hit but not a problem as I have a mate that works for ohlins. This'll happen later in the year.
This fits into your personal build and not in the genric one, make your own personal thread :)
Top bar you see Im the thread starter. And below my personal thread.
 

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I've got a small problem to find a solution how to fit radiator hoses in using 996 fairings panels

i thought about to use the 1198 set (radiator ,batterybox with the hoses) , buy impossible to fit the panel because of the hoses.




it would be necessary to cut the fairing panel as i seen somewhere in a post here:


did anyone try another way for the hose (by the inside of the frame , passing behind the battery box? I don't really want to cut my side fairing....
 

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I found what it could be the solution.

I replaced the rear head water coolant union by a front model one (with the temp sensor plug on it)
insert a internal Ø19 hose on this new rear collant union which goes to the thermostat housing by the inside of the frame.
another Ø19 8cm long hose join the thermostat to the front head collant union.

I cut on of the 2 hoses who go to the radiator internal Ø25(the bottom one), and i used the cut piece to join the thermostat to the radiator.



have to fit the side fairing to see ...

after I will remake a new battery box, smaller for a lithium battery...
 

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Hoping for some quick assistance. Just fired up my swap and after getting the TPS wiring squared away (thanks to TomTom), she is running much cleaner. At idle, the ecu is showing 239mv when measuring at pins 16 and 30 on the 16m ecu. That seems to be within the acceptable range. With the key on, it is showing 209mv. Is 150mv still a good base line with just the key on? What needs to be adjusted to get 150mv on the 1098 throttle bodies? I have found plenty of write ups on the 996 throttle bodies, but not the 1098. Any help would be appreciated.Thanks guys

Jared
 

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Hi Guys

Been dreaming about this conversion for a long time, but instead of doing all the hard work myself i've just purchased a racebike that's been built with much higher spec components than i was considering.

So zero points for effort so far... but pretty stoked with the spec of this thing all the same.

I have a few questions for the group however.

This machine has a bespoke radiator, with no fans. It also looks as if there's limited space to fit them. Can i use my spare 748 rad? Or won't it fit past the horizontal head and airbox? Will it provide enough cooling or is the 1098 set up larger in volume and efficiency?

Am i better off to use my 748 loom to add all the necessary road bits (lights, indicators etc) or buy a complete 1098 loom and replace the cut race loom i currently have. Fitting the power commander , nemesis and traction control will be easy enough to an existing 1098 loom, but what about the anti-theft stuff? This bike has no key so obviously the ECU has been flashed to run without the security set up.

Cheers!
 

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Finally I used a 1198 Ø70 Termignoni exhaust pipes system with 996 cans.

I had to modify a little bit the vertival exhaust header manifold, angle for the tube doesn't hit the frame,
to move the pipe away from the swingarm, shorted the pipes lenth to better fit the frame shape.

and to rebuild the Y piece with new bends.




and the result on the bike



the result combines a modern technical solution (2-1-2 exhaust) and an old look (the long 996 cans) .I am very happy with that
 
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