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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured I would start a new thread, as I didn't see any specific to the 950. I just did the swap last night, but haven't had a chance to test it out yet. I will report back once the weather decides to cooperate. For anyone considering this for the 950, figured I would give a quick overview of the process (at least my fumbled process...)

For starters, seems like it could be a lot more simple than it actually is. The 950 and 950 SP should be similar, except the quick shift. It isn't really a difficult job, just more difficult than it needs to be if that makes sense.

-Adjust rear wheel in forward most position.
-Remove clutch actuator, shift lever, and then sprocket cover. I used a marker to note the shift lever position as I liked the factory setting. Keep the shift lever handy as you may need to go from neutral to in gear a few times during the process.
-Loosen the 3 foot peg bracket mount bolts (you don't have to actually remove them, just need some clearance)
-Flatten the sprocket retainer washer (make sure to flatten in all the way)
-Remove the sprocket retainer nut. I used an impact wrench to not have to deal with stopping the rotation, so may need to add in some additional measures if you don't have an one. An option would be to slide the rear wheel back into position, and have someone hold the rear brake while on the side stand to prevent rotation (do at your own risk...). Once your remove the nut, the sprocket will slide right off, well kinda. This is were loosen of the foot peg bracket is required to give some clearance.
-Roll the chain off the rear sprocket, and use the slack to work the front sprocket off.
-For those OCDers much like myself, clean any chain slop and debris from the sprocket area, and clean all components to be reinstalled.
-Follow the steps in the reverse order to reinstall the new sprocket (make sure orientation is the same, flat side out, beveled side in).
-Torque everything down to spec, make sure to include threadlocker were indicated. Have your wife or buddy hold the brake with the bike on the side stand when you torque the sprocket nut. You can also stick a screw driver or similar in a sprocket tooth to jamb up the chain, but I don't prefer this method with a shiny new bike.

I believe that is about it. It took about an hour for everything, and then another hour to drink a beer and admire the handy work. There is probably 100 better ways to do this, I am by no means a mechanic. So use as your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For me it’s a little more pull down low and shorter gears. I mostly ride tight mountain roads, and in stock form It feels like I need a 2.5 gear lol. 2nd gear isn’t enough, 3rd feels like it’s lugging a bit.
 

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Smitty, how did you end up liking the change ?
any others end up doing this? I know it’s been a common thing on hypers and monsters for a while.
thanks
 

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I did this last weekend and the bike overall is improved. Much better at very low speed handling and starts, although I still suffer with fueling and clutch issues on my 2018 939.
 

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What 14t sprocket did you use? Been searching for a while now and can’t see any specific to the 950, is it the same as the 939 front?
 

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Talked my with dealer today about putting on a 14T on my 950sp. They advised against it stating that when they have done it, they ran into to issues with the quick shifter. I am curious if anyone has installed the 14T on the SP model and run into any issues?


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Talked my with dealer today about putting on a 14T on my 950sp. They advised against it stating that when they have done it, they ran into to issues with the quick shifter. I am curious if anyone has installed the 14T on the SP model and run into any issues?


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I have a 939SP, so I know that I won't be answering your question EXACTLY.

However, I originally changed my front sprocket to a 14 tooth as I felt that the stock 15T left the overall gearing a little tall. The Hyper certainly doesn't need the top speed, you can only hang on for so long. I ran it like that and while I was pleased, I knew it could be better.

So, I changed it back to a 15T front sprocket and upped the rear from 43T to 45T. The bike feels much smoother, it doesn't feel like it's geared too low by comparison, and overall, it feels like it tightened the gearing perfectly.

Historically, I have always gone up 2 teeth in the rear on all of my bikes. Even on my R1s (multiple generations) and CBR1000RR Repsol, going up 2 teeth in the rear actually gave me more usable top speed as it took less time to get there/easier to pull upper range. I'm happy to report that my up 2 teeth method of change hasn't failed me on my Hyper either.

Of course, to directly answer your question; going up 2 teeth in the rear WILL NOT effect your quick shifter.

Dave
 

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I have a 939SP, so I know that I won't be answering your question EXACTLY.

However, I originally changed my front sprocket to a 14 tooth as I felt that the stock 15T left the overall gearing a little tall. The Hyper certainly doesn't need the top speed, you can only hang on for so long. I ran it like that and while I was pleased, I knew it could be better.

So, I changed it back to a 15T front sprocket and upped the rear from 43T to 45T. The bike feels much smoother, it doesn't feel like it's geared too low by comparison, and overall, it feels like it tightened the gearing perfectly.

Historically, I have always gone up 2 teeth in the rear on all of my bikes. Even on my R1s (multiple generations) and CBR1000RR Repsol, going up 2 teeth in the rear actually gave me more usable top speed as it took less time to get there/easier to pull upper range. I'm happy to report that my up 2 teeth method of change hasn't failed me on my Hyper either.

Of course, to directly answer your question; going up 2 teeth in the rear WILL NOT effect your quick shifter.

Dave
How did the plus affect the Speedo? I went up plus 2 on my 2010 blade and fitted a Speedo healer however I cannot find one for the 939 sp
 

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It screwed it up even worse than it comes stock.

But do you really look at it?

(I think it reads high by 4 mph)

Dave

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I've only ridden my bike once so far only got it last week, stock does seem to over read as stock tbh. Speedo worth it around my house as local police in town bit keen with the speed guns as is North Wales police in villages.
 

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Yeah, I don't think stock, the speedo is even close anyway.

Whether you change the gearing or not, use a GPS app to get an idea of what your speedo reads at some popular speeds versus what the GPS says. Then when you know the cops are around, you can guage your speed more accurately.

Usually, with going up 2 teeth in the rear, I can count on the speedo reading about 5 over. That's usually good enough to keep me out of a ticket.

Dave

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I'll get 45 tooth ordered up and get GPS Speedo on bars I feel my 939sp is bit long in gearing as was my blade. Is there enough free play in stock chain to accommodate the larger gear?
 

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No.

I had to go to a 108 link chain. Stock is 106. It adds to the cost and inconvenience that you suffer for better gearing.

You can use the stock chain if you go down 1 on the front. So if cost is a big issue, down 1 is the way to go.

Dave

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I'll wait till iam due a chain or lest till misses stops noticing parts turning up I've already fitted race seat, carbon screen, mirrors and got rearsets on way. Thanks for the advice
 

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How did the plus affect the Speedo? I went up plus 2 on my 2010 blade and fitted a Speedo healer however I cannot find one for the 939 sp
I might be wrong but I’m pretty certain the 939 and 950 calculate speed from the abs ring so changing the gearing won’t make any difference to the reading. :unsure:
 

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I might be wrong but I’m pretty certain the 939 and 950 calculate speed from the abs ring so changing the gearing won’t make any difference to the reading. :unsure:
This is quite probable, but never the less, the speedo is off by about 4 MPH high.

Dave
 
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