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I just finished my first oil change on the Hypermotard, and it was a piece of cake. Others have posted how-to, and I thought I'd add another one!

Things you need:

1. 4 quarts of oil. I go with Mobil 1 Synthetic 20w-50 motorcycle oil, but I don't think you can go wrong with any of the top brands.
2. 10mm Hex socket
3. 14mm Hex socket
4. Oil Filter (I use K&N Part # KN153)
5. Replacement drain plug sealing washer
6. Replacement oil screen plug sealing washer
7. Funnel
8. Oil pan
9. Torque wrench (not totally necessary, but nice to have)
10. Filter wrench
11. 3/8's ratchet


This is really easy and should take about an hour. I cleaned my filter screen, which is an extra step. My screen was almost perfectly clean, and had no metal particles at all, just a couple small specs of what looked like some sort of sealant, and that was mostly on the thread of the screen assembly. My bike has 4,100 miles, and had the first service done at around 700 miles, and I know the dealer didn't check it a the first service. Based on what I saw on the screen I think I'll check it every other oil service from here on out.

This can be a little messy, and you're going to be working around some warm parts of the bike, so mechanic gloves make things a little cleaner and safer.


1. Get the bike up to operating temperature.

2. Put the oil drain pan under the drain plug, and using the 10mm hex socket remove the drain plug. Be careful, the oil it hot! Removing the oil fill plug will help things drain a bit faster.

3. When the oil has mostly drained, use your filter wrench to loosen and remove the oil filter. I used one the the "spider" type wrenches that uses three arms to grab the filter. In my case, the filter wasn't very tight and this wrench worked, but I think it would have been tough if the filter was very tight. A strap type wrench would also work, and might be easier.


Steps 4-7 only apply if you're going to remove and clean the filter screen.


4. You'll need to drop the front header pipe, which is easy. Just remove the two screws holding the retaining collar and the pipe should just drop down easily without having to do anything else.

5. Using the 14mm hex socket, remove the outer filter screen bolt. Once removed, behind it is the actual filter screen, which is also removed using the 14mm hex socket. It's helpful if you have a small needlenose plier to pull the filter screen out after you loosen it completely.

6. Take a good look at the screen and check for any large metal particles or pieces that might indicate some sort of problem. I sprayed mine down with WD40 and cleaned it really good, then blew it out with compressed air.

7. Clean the inside of the filter screen cavity with a clean rag. Replace the filter screen and screw it back in with your 14mm hex. If you have a torque wrench, torque to 31 lb/ft. If you don't have a torque wrench, I suggest the "tighten until snug, then another 1/3 turn". Do the same for the outer filter screen bolt, using the new sealing washer you've got. I used my torque wrench on the inner, and the method I suggest for tightening if you don't have a torque wrench is very similar to what I did using the wrench. Snug and a little more won't strip anything, and that's you're main concern when torquing these bolts.


8. Clean the underside of the motor, inside and around the oil filter housing and drain plug. Install the drain plug using the new sealing washer and torque to 31 lb/ft. or use the method I suggest in #7 above if you don't have a torque wrench.

9. Half-fill the oil filter with fresh oil and lube the rubber seal with a little oil. Carefully screw in the new filter and hand-tighten until snug. If you have a torque wrench, torque to 8 lb/ft, otherwise tighten another 1/2 turn.

NOTE: The K&N filters have a built-in bolt that allows you to install it without a filter wrench. I found a 17mm socket fits it perfectly.

10. If you dropped the front header to clean the oil screen, bolt that back up. If you've got anti-seize around, you might want to dab a little on the end of the header pipe and on the screws before you reinstall. Mine came off very easily, but exhaust bolts and pipes do tend to bind up and the anti-seize will help keep that from happening.

11. Add three quarts of engine oil using your funnel, and replace the fill plug.

12. Wipe down any oil on the header/motor so you don't get a bunch of smoke when you start the bike. Start the bike and let it run for a few minutes, and check for leaks. If everything looks good, shut down the bike and let it sit for ten minutes. Level the bike and check the oil level in the sight glass. Top off the oil level until it's around 3/4 of the way up the sight glass. In my case this was about another half-quart.




That's it! Now go riding!
 

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Step 1A- Turn motor off after reaching temp. :p
:D
 
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