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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Sportclassicci Gurus.

My bike has recently started revving high on idle, and then settling again.

The bike has the Race ECU and termi 2 into 1 system, and I believe the previous over did mess with the mapping, but all has been fine over the previous 600 miles or so... in fact she runs beautifully otherwise and feels a lot stronger than my Bipsoto with race ECU and termi slipons.

I took the bike to Rosso Corse in London, who have a great rep, and they ran some tests on the ECU and the TPS and told me all seemed ok. ...One thing they did mention was that this could be a symptom of the valve clearances needing attention... Having just spent £700 on a new clutch, clutch slave and other cosmetics I told them to leave it for now, as it's not due on the service schedule and I'm not made of cash.

Any thoughts, advice, etc...?

I was kinda hoping it might just go away, LOL.
 

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How old are the belts? At least check the tension. Though being an 06, valve guides are always a possibility :(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Belts are brand new and fresh from a service...

...What are the symptoms of valve guide problems? My bike is in the earlier set if serial numbers... What happens? :(
 

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I have heard that uneven/high idling or dying can be a symptom. That does not mean that's what it is though. Maybe go for a TPS reset/trim tuning?
 

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I dont know if turning the key on and off is a reset.

My guess would be the Idel Air Control valve (the round thing between your throttle bodies) is stuck open, allowing too much air to bleed in. Every time you turn key on the IAC closed and resets itself before opening for cranking. turning it on and off may help un-stick it.

Try pulling the air tubes off the IAC valve and plugging them where the enter the throttle bodies. If it runs normal the valve is stuck open
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I'll try all that.

Meanwhile, I was looking at it what the bike does detail today.... The high idle appears when I change down to neutral as I roll to a standstill, and stays high - at exactly 3000rpm - while I hold the clutch in.

But... When I let the clutch out, the idle settles back within about 3 seconds... and it does this every single time. (Does the bike even know the clutch is in?).

Anyway, I'll try the non-scientific "key on-and-off 5-times" trick, cos it would be great if that worked - unless my exact symptoms help explain what's going on any better?
 

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Motorbike Junky
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Yeah, the bike knows the clutch is in... There's a sensor that is triggered when it's pulled; I think it's so the bike isn't started in gear...
 

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If you do the key on and off 5x, disconect the fuel pump connector or else the bike will get flooded. Each time you key on it pre-injects.
 

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Brilliant! Since replacing my ECU I'd taken my GT in to have the TPS reset and the trim adjusted. After getting it back from the shop, it seemed rougher at part throttle- not on/off clean like before, and I suspected they overlooked setting the TPS. Tried your 5x trick, and PRESTO! It's much much improved. Don't know if it re-set the TPS, but it did something and it rides more like her old self.

Thanks for the tip (whatever it does...)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you do the key on and off 5x, disconect the fuel pump connector or else the bike will get flooded. Each time you key on it pre-injects.
Thanks 848... I know it's a big connector under the seat somewhere, can you guide me to it with a pic or description?
 

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Motorbike Junky
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Under the seat, on the right side... Circled in red - don't mind the other stuff, my Speedo Healer is in the same spot...

 

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Discussion Starter #13
LOL... The old 'label' ploy, eh?... Maybe I should just have a look... Thanks fella.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi again all.

The weather has been crap so last time out on the PS was the Gentleman's ride, and as per suggestions on this thread I tried turning the ignition on and off 5 times to resest the TPS, etc, but after a day of riding the bike is still doing the high idle of around 3000rpm while off the throttle, but in gear and with the clutch pulled in...

However, as soon as you put the bike into neutral it returns to normal idle speed.

I'm about to take the bike to my local London expert, who wants to look at valve clearances, but before I commit to hours of labour, are there any more ideas on what could be causing this. The bike has been remapped, and I wonder if the ECU and mapping could be the cause, or some sensor?

The symptoms are very specific and I hoped they would point to an obvious cause.

Thanks...
 

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Happen to me on 'colder' mornings.

Ride off, first couple of stops she idles high. If it drop it into Neutral she will drop the high idle. Once the temp gauge stops flashing 'low' the high idle stops.

I thought it was built into the map, to keep idle high to ward off stalling when cold.

Has the problem been consistent since the Sept OP? If she drops to a slow idle when dropped to Neutral I would think the Moto is try to avoid a lug-stall when cold.

I don't see the issue during the Summer, but it started again for me last week. The local morning temps were sub-70F.
 

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G'day LD,

I have had this problem before as well and what i did to overcome it was

Disconnect the battery for one night to clear ecu

Do not ride off until the bike is on normal idle when cold

Ride in a lower gear than normal when the engine is cold in town until the engine is up to temp

Hope this helps

Regards

Rob
 

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Remove and inspect the pickup sensor (left side, underneath front frame/engine mount) and make sure it is clean on the tip. No grime/oil/sludge/etc. the pickup sensor tells the ECU how to fire the motor based on revolutions. If dirty/malfunctioning, you will get a high idle. Don't bend the shim that's underneath it. You may need a different size shim if it's out of spec.

Tmnstr


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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Since your bike sleeps outside under a cover, I think you should definitely check the state of your TPS. In my first couple of years of ownership, my bike slept under a cover as well and the TPS weatherproofing failed, which led to a rusty TPS connection and all sorts of weird happened as a result. I had to buy a new loom (off ebay) as the wire was corroded pretty far back.

And that was in Los Angeles, mind you, not in London... (after an El Niño winter, though).

Worth looking into.

But if it's your guides, having gone through it, it's either a world of pain or an excuse to go big bore, depending on how you look at it. But it's costly either way.
 

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Here's a reference.

Tmnstr


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
OMG. I've been wondering what the MOST ANNOYING hiccupping came from (usually occurs between 3k and 4k rpm in 1st or 2nd gear ONLY when maintaining steady RPM, i.e. in traffic...)

I think this is worth looking into. Thanks Tmnstr!
 
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