Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,
Since there seems to be a bunch of questions popping up in various threads about how to get a hold of a front fairing without a headlight cut out for track up I decided to make a thread detailing my porgress. I will do two ways, one quick way involving little more than a plexiglas sheet and a heat gun. The second way will involve patching the hole in an exisiting fairing. I actually started that one first but I screwed up by trying to use metal mesh to patch the hole before using body filler and it doesn't quite work well.

My experience with body work is, crash, buy new part. I haven't worked with bondo in nearly 2 decades so if people who are skilled in this area want to chime in and provide tips that would be appreciated.

First up. The quick way. My goal for this is simple, I want function and don't give a rip about looks. Think flat tracker number plate but with a little more aerodynamics. I intend to replace the entire front fairing with 1 sheet of plexiglas. Yes, it will look like crap, but it should work. Requires, plexiglass sheet, heat gun, gloves (welders gloves or towels) to protect hands, some curved object to shape the sheet (I used a glass jar), drill, flat stock aluminum, assorted bolts, primer, paint.

EDIT effing pics, all I can get are the thumbs, sorry.

1. bend plexiglass with heat gun, in this case I used a large glass container and then a smaller pvc pipe only on the bottom. Go slow and try to heat and bend evenly. As you can see, I went too fast and there are kinks in the plexiglass, oh well.
2. make mounting brackets. I toyed with removing the plastic housing entirely and welding up some supports for the dash and front, but that is more that I wanted to deal with today. Because of this though I used a rather large piece of plexiglass in order to reach from the bottom mounting holes to the top. It would probably look better smaller. Bottom brackets are nothing but flat aluminum stock drilled to accommodate to stock clips.
3. top mounting brackets are angled aluminum stock, drilled to 5mm same as the bottom.
4. paint. I attempted to use a paint that would adhere to the plastic, needless to say it didn't. I'll do real painting and leave it overnight this time.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Second way.
This should be much nicer looking, but more time consuming and expensive. Requires; spare front fairing, body filler, sand paper, mesh screen (fiberglass or metal), primer, paint.

1. Take fairing and sand paint down to plastic at least 1 inch from opening. I chose to mount the backing on the inside of the fairing. I hope that this will be enough.
2. Sand down the inside of the headlight opening and a little of the front.
3. Apply screen. This metal mesh I bought from the auto store along with the body filler. I thought it would be easier to use and give some strength to the structure. When I do this again I will not use this, it has adhesive on it which I thought would help me to apply it to the fender. The adhesive is weak though and does not hold on its own. The mesh is flexible but still cumbersome. Use fiberglass tape or screen. This will work much better and you can see that I ended up using a bit to finish up with.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
4. I let the epoxy cure over night.
5. Apply body filler. I obviously suck at this as the pictures tell. I mixed too much at once and the first batch did not have enough hardener in it. Live and learn.
6. After filler sits up, sand down with 80 grit
7. If you are like me, you will need to do a second coat. This one I applied with a spatula and filled in the crevasses left after sanding. Remember that after applying the filler you can trim the shape with a putty knife and clean with alcohol any splatter before it gets hard.
8. Let it sit/sand again.

I'll have to leave it here for tonight.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So I am back at it tonight after work and as you can see the shape of the fairing leaves a little to be desired. I picked up a glazing/spot filler putty that as I was to discover, is awesome.
9. sand/re-apply body filler... repeat until shape is appropriate (your values might be different than mine). I ended up doing the bondo/sand/bondo process 3 times
10. apply spot filler putty. You really need to use a putty knife/spreader for this. It hardens pretty quick (2-3 min) to being clay like and then hardens further after 30min of sitting.
11. sand down the spot putty (200-300 grit). It sands really easily, if I could have made the whole shape with this stuff I sure would have.
12. I initially thought I was going to save the red but some over-agressive sanding ruined that thought so I sanded it all off the upper part of the fairing.
13. tape - sloppily in my case
14. primer - white this time, I am surely not a painter so I just used spray can for the primer and paint.
15. sand primer and re spray
16. re-tape
17. paint
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Surely I don't need to tell you to wear a mask while sanding and do it in an area with some ventilation. :think:
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
As you can tell from some of the later pictures, you can make the transitions between the body filler and the original piece very smooth, or you can give up like me. I hate sanding. It is a track fairing after all. I have a few spots the could have used more of that spot putty but I didn't really notice how deep they were until after I sprayed primer.

There is a reason I don't do this for a living. :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Paint dried overnight. I tried a wonky paint job in hopes that it would kinda hide the blemishes but it didn't really pan out. I'll probably just end up going with black. Overall not a tough thing to do. If you have a bit more patience than I do you could probably come up with something quite professional looking. For me this is good enough. Hope this helps someone out there.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,056 Posts
Good effort. Painting and repairing bodywork is a pita... I am glad I don´t do it for a living. On the other side I highly respect the pros.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
Good effort. Painting and repairing bodywork is a pita... I am glad I don´t do it for a living. On the other side I highly respect the pros.
This.

Looks very nice, I wouldn't care about the quality of the paintjob. 90% of the trackbikes I see don't really have the best paint job out there :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Paint dried overnight. I tried a wonky paint job in hopes that it would kinda hide the blemishes but it didn't really pan out. I'll probably just end up going with black. Overall not a tough thing to do. If you have a bit more patience than I do you could probably come up with something quite professional looking. For me this is good enough. Hope this helps someone out there.
reminds me of kartman from southpark in a way...:D satin black would looknice i am going to the same thing to my wrecked carbon tank shrouds,cover,nose for track carbon...
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top