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Discussion Starter #1
I have to add a disclaimer before I start this post as I do not have the original front signals for my 08 Hyper so I can only 100% address the rear OEM signal replacement. I've gotten several PM's to a similar post in the "what did you do to your Tard" thread, so I'll try of offer a better explanation here.

Anyway, the PO had swapped the front guards/signals for some mini oval LEDs, the rear signals were the stock incandescent lamps. When I replaced the rears with LEDs, the flash rate was fine but I had no dash indication that the signals were selected. I tried one of the ebay "6-8 ohm flash fix resistors" and didn't correct the problem. So I made some measurements and came up with the following. The OEM rear signals draw approximately 700 mA, the new LED signals draw 60 mA. Doing the math, you get approximately 18 ohms for the OEM lamps and 220 ohms for the LEDs. I ordered some 20 ohm, 25 watt resistors from Digikey and installed them on the rear. That gave be a proper dash indication but a fast flash rate. Since I didn't know the value (current draw) of the OEM front signal I just started experimenting with different value placed across the supply line to the signals. 20 ohms, no difference, 40 ohms no difference, 60 ohms = correct flash rate and dash indication. When I went to 80 ohms just for the hell of it the flash rate became erratic. So apparently there is a fairly small window of resistance that is necessary for proper operation.

If anyone has a rashed up OEM guard/signal they want to send me I'll take some proper measurements and post back to the group what the proper resistor for the front calculates out to be.

In my case one 20 ohm resistor on each side for the rear and one 60 ohm resistor on each side for the front (I'm using two thirties in series) did the trick. I mounted the resistors to the subframe to help dissipate some of the heat, they do get a little warm.

Hope this helps!
 

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You have given me a good place to start, so thanks! It is interesting that I had LEDs front and back and never had normal flash rate even though I had the dash indicator on. Then again, I never did the due diligence and actually measured anything, I just threw a bunch of resistors that I had in my garage at it and it worked out. All went to heck again when I put the integrated rear light/turn signal on and I have just been too lazy to sort it.
 

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steve I've got a factory turn led I'd be more than happy to flat rate to you for the cause. it's just the led, housing and wires I detached it from the blown up factory hand guard and zip tied it to the bar to stay legal till the new guard showed up.(which since has been blown up) and the whole cheez ball factory setup scrapped for a better set up. P.M. me your address and I'll ship it out this weekend.
 

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Good info, well written, and your wiring/installation is nice and clean too! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
steve I've got a factory turn led I'd be more than happy to flat rate to you for the cause. it's just the led, housing and wires I detached it from the blown up factory hand guard and zip tied it to the bar to stay legal till the new guard showed up.(which since has been blown up) and the whole cheez ball factory setup scrapped for a better set up. P.M. me your address and I'll ship it out this weekend.

Very cool, that would be awesome. I'll take the measurements and post tem up ASAP. I'll shoot you a PM.

JC at JCPAK Bikes has the connectors we need for the front and rear signal and the tag light as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good info, well written, and your wiring/installation is nice and clean too! Thanks!
Thanks for the compliment. I try to keep things sano, much easier to trouble shoot should things go wrong with the mod or something else in the area.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You have given me a good place to start, so thanks! It is interesting that I had LEDs front and back and never had normal flash rate even though I had the dash indicator on. Then again, I never did the due diligence and actually measured anything, I just threw a bunch of resistors that I had in my garage at it and it worked out. All went to heck again when I put the integrated rear light/turn signal on and I have just been too lazy to sort it.
Thanks, that was my intent with the post, I figured I wasn't the only guy/gal out there with the issue. The integrated signals can be a pain. I had them on the Desmo Challenge Tail and I loved the look, Chris at C2D did a good job on the wiring kit he offered. It used relays to operate the integrated signals and effectively isolated them from the bike. Very clean way to do it, the only down side is a little more hardware to fail in the future but mine worked great the entire time I had it installed.
 

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Great thread! I was playing w LED front and rear and a 25 ohm resistor in paralell in the rear and couldnt get it to work... Now ill just copy u and get some incandescent rears... Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great thread! I was playing w LED front and rear and a 25 ohm resistor in paralell in the rear and couldnt get it to work... Now ill just copy u and get some incandescent rears... Thanks
The problem may be coming from the front. I would stick with LEDs on the rear, I personally like the way LEDs snap on and hopefully attract a little more attention from the cager behind you. You have to match the OEM value fairly close from my limited testing, 40 ohms didn't work, 60 did and 80 didn't. A twenty on each side of the rear with LEDs should be good. Poakone is sending me a rashed up front LED so I'll be able to tell the group what value should work on the front.
 

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The problem may be coming from the front. I would stick with LEDs on the rear, I personally like the way LEDs snap on and hopefully attract a little more attention from the cager behind you. You have to match the OEM value fairly close from my limited testing, 40 ohms didn't work, 60 did and 80 didn't. A twenty on each side of the rear with LEDs should be good. Poakone is sending me a rashed up front LED so I'll be able to tell the group what value should work on the front.
Oh cool, im starting from scratch. No oem turn signals to work with. Im fixing a wrecked bike...I agree, the LEDs potentially grab peoples attention more the way they blink quickly from on/off. Where an incandescent seems to fade into on/off(if that makes sense).

If i lut 60 ohms in the circuit on each side does it matter if its split up front and rear? Or can i put all the resistors on the rear signals wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh cool, im starting from scratch. No oem turn signals to work with. Im fixing a wrecked bike...I agree, the LEDs potentially grab peoples attention more the way they blink quickly from on/off. Where an incandescent seems to fade into on/off(if that makes sense).

If i lut 60 ohms in the circuit on each side does it matter if its split up front and rear? Or can i put all the resistors on the rear signals wiring?
It looks like they are separate circuits for the front and back which would make sense since the OEMs are incandescent and LED. The schematic I have is really small and doesn't have great detail but I would say you will need to use individual resistors front and back. If I have a chance tomorrow I'll try to look at the diagram a little more. Depending on how much current you replacement LEDs draw you may have to vary up or down on the resistor size to get the system happy. 20 and 60 (rear/front) works for my set up. I can send you a PM that shows what LEDs I'm using on the rear. Haven't fully decided on the fronts yet, but I know the little oval ones are going. If you want them I can send them your way.
 

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I have an 08 1100s. It ot it with Ducati handle bar led mirror/signals. I had no issues with flash or the indicator. I installed a set of oem handguards with signals. The original wiring was cut and I spliced them back onto the wires that were there from the handle bar mount units. I soldered the connections. I now have signals that work fine with the engine not running, and are irratic with it running. Do I need to start over with oem front signals and wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have an 08 1100s. It ot it with Ducati handle bar led mirror/signals. I had no issues with flash or the indicator. I installed a set of oem handguards with signals. The original wiring was cut and I spliced them back onto the wires that were there from the handle bar mount units. I soldered the connections. I now have signals that work fine with the engine not running, and are irratic with it running. Do I need to start over with oem front signals and wiring?
So are you saying you bought it with Ducati but not original front signals and then changed them to what should be on the Hyper from the factory? Are the rear signals originals or replacements? In my limited testing I found that as little as 20 ohms change in resistance can result in an fast flash rate or erratic dash indication. So if either the front or rear signals are close to the edge of what the circuit wants the change in voltage (running vs stopped) could account for the erratic indication.
 

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I purchased a Rear LED brake light w/ integrated signals and was thinking of wiring in the two small bulbs in the headlight (upper corners),(w/ changed bulb color) as front turn signals. Has anyone tried this? I'm putting the final touches (mirrors and front signals) on my rebuilt bike so I have no handguards or anything. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I purchased a Rear LED brake light w/ integrated signals and was thinking of wiring in the two small bulbs in the headlight (upper corners),(w/ changed bulb color) as front turn signals. Has anyone tried this? I'm putting the final touches (mirrors and front signals) on my rebuilt bike so I have no handguards or anything. Thoughts?
Those small lamps probably don't draw much and if you swapped them for plug in replacement LEDs they would draw even less, more than likely. I've thought about doing the same thing but only to augment the real front signals, IMHO they would be too close in and near the headlight to make an effective signal to the oncoming cagers. Not that they see us anyway :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks to POAKONE I have the guts to one of the OEM front signals. I ran some tests this afternoon and the resistance value works out to be right around 55 to 60 ohms. So that's the value we need to shoot for as a combined number (LED + resistor parallel calculation) on the front and 20 ohms on the rear.
 

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Alright, i bought some incandescent rears and finally got the engine tuned so i can attack the blinker situation. Off to radio shack after i take some ohms measurements on whats on the bike. Thanks again for the info steve!
 
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