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Discussion Starter #1
Considering doing it myself... are there any good guides for people who’ve never done it? I’m pretty handy but haven’t ever done this.
 

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Look on YouTube, search forum here, dozens of good videos and threads. I would consider it easy to do but I don't know your level of mechanical skills.

Then if you're stuck somewhere and you're not sure take a break and ask here. The first time is the longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Look on YouTube, search forum here, dozens of good videos and threads. I would consider it easy to do but I don't know your level of mechanical skills.

Then if you're stuck somewhere and you're not sure take a break and ask here. The first time is the longer.
I got quoted $6000 at ducati to do everything I need. I bought the bike broken for cheap and put quite a bit into fixing it, and now finding out it’s going to be this kind of money pit is sort of heart breaking to be honest.... I’ll try to fix what I can but maybe Ducati isn’t for me. I had my Yamaha R1 for 5 years with no issues, and never broke the bank...
 

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Considering doing it myself... are there any good guides for people who’ve never done it? I’m pretty handy but haven’t ever done this.
Yep, it's doable. You just need to study first, buy some tools and parts etc. And I would say first time take one or two days for it. Not so that you start project at morning and think of going to ride at evening..noup.
Tools you need I think: Piece that holds cams at place. I don't have it but would be good.
and tool to turn crank:
and also tuning app for belts tightening. Many choises, but Gates app seems to be one good one. But prepare that your thumb gets very sore!
Then you just turn engine to timing marks. Put some own marks to cam pulleys so you know where they should be. And take lots of pictures. Because after few hours you cant remember anything.
Then you take belts off. And put new ones in. And tighten them. Put everything back in place. Then you pray..take few long drinks from your favorite whiskey..and press start button..No..in this part you take covers off one more time and check everything. Every nut, tightnes of belts etc..then you pray again and press start button.
Done.
When belts are off, you can also test pulleys bearings etc.
 

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Just curious, who quoted you $6000 for a belt and Desmo service. I thought it was supposed to be in the $1200-$1800 range at an actual Ducati dealer depending on location?

I just did belts and it wasn't bad. I have been thinking about the valves but I only have 3800 miles but don't feel like taking the radiators off. You could get lucky and all the valves are still in spec, checking them is easy.
 

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Hahahahahahahaha... perfect!
yeah, i feel sorry for the guy. i've been doing this 26 years now and i've seen so many people buy cheap for whatever reason ducati and then come to hate the brand because they bought a fucked out piece of shit that needed a heap of work. but for a counterpoint you can head over the 44 teeth on youtube and see the breathtaking amount of time gone into the cheap shitbox litre bikes they bought for the next budget bike battle. funny as.

although $6k is a lot. depends if it's tacked high with bullshit tax or it really does need a heap of work. but it's not the bike's fault it's fucked. someone made it that way.
 

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i would say the tool you need the most for valve clearance adjustment is the one to hold the rockers down. i made a copy of the 998 tool from a 5mm or so piece of wire (rod?) and it makes it so much easier. having shims on hand makes a big difference too. not having shims for the in and out is a real pitfa. there's the tools to move the rockers too, which are handy.

but if you're going to do it with the mindset that it'll probably be ok and not need any adjustment don't bother starting. it'll probably be within the nice wide ducati range and if you're happy with that then again, don't bother.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
there is nothing as expensive as a cheap ducati.

did you buy a shitbox r1 or a good one? should have bought a good 1098
The R1 was fantastic. I was also living in America where everything, including Japanese bikes, are HALF the price that they are in Japan. A 15 year old Japanese 600cc sport bike here could easily set me back $10,000. The Ducati wasn’t starting and I picked it up for $4900. So far it’s been good but the on going maintenance is something I’m going to have to learn, and I’m trying to research just that right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i would say the tool you need the most for valve clearance adjustment is the one to hold the rockers down. i made a copy of the 998 tool from a 5mm or so piece of wire (rod?) and it makes it so much easier. having shims on hand makes a big difference too. not having shims for the in and out is a real pitfa. there's the tools to move the rockers too, which are handy.

but if you're going to do it with the mindset that it'll probably be ok and not need any adjustment don't bother starting. it'll probably be within the nice wide ducati range and if you're happy with that then again, don't bother.

I’m a little confused. You think that at 46,000km the valves are most likely where they’re supposed to be? How long can I put this off? I’m willing to do it if I can get my head around what exactly I’m doing.
 

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if it has 46,000km on it it should have had 3 clearance checks already. which mean it's been done right once and stayed happy ever since or it's been checked and it's within the ducati range or maybe never been checked at all. who knows.

i'm doing an ms4 at the moment that should have had 2 checks previously, and it has closing clearances up to 0.25mm, but i think if i looked in the manual that would be within the factory range. well, some fuckwit has flipped the collets over, so you know the morons have been in there at least.

some of us don't use the factory range. those that do don't adjust things very often, and that's the point as it reduces cost of servicing. they tend to run better at lower speed with tighter closing clearances.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
........but it's not the bike's fault it's fucked. someone made it that way.
Why are you saying my bike is fucked? I did a 14 hour day on it Sunday and went 1/3 way across the country and back. The bike starts instantly, even cold. It has zero issues except the radiator which sprung a small leak on that trip.

Like I said, I’ve put a ton of work into this bike already and I’ve got it running like a champ.

Ducati says it’s going to blow without an overhaul, belts and valve check. I don’t know if I believe them about the overhaul, and it seems cheaper just to ride it until it blows and then replace it. BUT I want to ride it as long as possible so I will do the belts and valves myself if I can figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
if it has 46,000km on it it should have had 3 clearance checks already. which mean it's been done right once and stayed happy ever since or it's been checked and it's within the ducati range or maybe never been checked at all. who knows.

i'm doing an ms4 at the moment that should have had 2 checks previously, and it has closing clearances up to 0.25mm, but i think if i looked in the manual that would be within the factory range. well, some fuckwit has flipped the collets over, so you know the morons have been in there at least.

some of us don't use the factory range. those that do don't adjust things very often, and that's the point as it reduces cost of servicing. they tend to run better at lower speed with tighter closing clearances.
So the valves won’t move during every check interval? I assumed they would gradually move every time and have to be reset every time. If they won’t move after the first adjustment why does Ducati say to keep checking them?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
they tend to run better at lower speed with tighter closing clearances.
Apologies man, but you lost me here. I didn’t know you could adjust valve speed. I thought it was only clearances. What exactly did you mean here?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This will help you with belts.
Chris Kelly has a good tutorial on YouTube.
I used no special tools, take your time, double check everything and you will be fine.
Dude! Thank you so much, this is exactly what I needed.

So, after reading this I have a few questions:

・ I’m a little concerned about finding TDC. Is it marked in the 1098 or will I need to use my thumb to find it?

・I’m also confused about why I need to remove the spark plugs... Is that really necessary?

・Is there anyway to do this without adjusting the tension? If it’s necessary I’ll do it with the iPhone app.

・Why do I need a tool to turn the engine, can’t I just put it in 6th gear and turn the back wheel?

・ I ordered this tool. Is there anything else I need besides this to keep things where they are and not blow my engine up?



I’m sorry for asking a bazillion questions. I really, really appreciate you finding this for me. This will help me a ton.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
there is nothing as expensive as a cheap ducati.

did you buy a shitbox r1 or a good one? should have bought a good 1098
They go for $14,000 here if they run... I bought mine for $4900 and I’ve got it running like a champ. I did at least 400 miles the other day with no issues except springing a leak in the radiator.

Just because Ducati is asking me for a crazy amount without inspecting my bike doesn’t mean it’s crap...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yep, it's doable. You just need to study first, buy some tools and parts etc.
About the crank tool, can I just roll the back wheel in 6th gear? And why do I need to remove the spark plugs?

How is this for the cam lock? I already ordered one of these:


Thank you very much for posting the tools.
 
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