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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 996.
The stock steering damper has been rubbing for as long as I can remember on the tank. Since it was only "rubbing", I thought nothing of it... until today. I noticed the rubbing looked a little more than just a "rub".
Now, I can feel a divot in the tank (I'm guessing this is not good).

I just barely rubs the tank and I am not sure if I should just replace the stock unit with a thiner unit (Ohlins) or if anyone else has had a similiar problem and knows how to fix this "properly".

I thought maybe the gas tank was to far forward but it only fits one way....
I have a second stock unit and it hits as well.... :confused:

I've attached pictures... any ideas

Thanks !
 

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It's possible that you might have a very worn rubber bushing in the airbox, where the tank-pin sits. That's allowing the tank to be pushed forward and thereby making contact with the steering damper. I'd check that first.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info BUT...

- the tanks fits tight. meaning that I have to give it an extra little push to get the bolt into the frame to secure the back of the tank down. If I removed the rubber piece on the back of the tank bolt hole and allowed the tank to slide back it might help BUT that can't be right. The rubber piece is their for a reason.

- the damper holder is positioned right over the "fat" part of the damper. The "fat" part is the only part that the holder will clamp down on. The holder will not attach in any other position.

Any other ideas... :confused:
 

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Mine does the same thing, just not as bad... I'd love to hear a fix. I'm hunting for an Ohlins damper anyway in the meantime. I don't think the gas tank is the problem.

Mine seems to have a lot of fore and aft "play" where it attaches to the top triple clamp.
 

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You might want to loosen the two mounting bolts and push the bracket further to the front. There might be some small room to mount it slightly forward.

You should also note that on some of the Superbikes one can change the headstock angle. There are two positions, one is 24-30' degrees and the other one I think is 23-30' degrees. When one changes from one position to another, the damper also needs to be moved to match the headstock position. As you can see in one of the posted pictures, on the right hand side there are two mounting holes. One is used by the mouting bolt attaching the damper to the frame and second one is exposed

Make sure that your headstock angle matches the position of the damper.

I am not sure if it is possible to move the headstock halfway in between! But if the clamping screws for the eccentric hub are loose, it is possible that the hub has moved from one of those positions to halfway in between. I suggest you check and make sure that the headstock eccentric hub is at one OR another position and not in between and then adjust the damper position accordingly. If the eccentric hub has moved, it will affect how the damper is positioned.

-Fariborz
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe headstock angle... I had not thought of that and mine is adjustable.
I'll check that out and let everyone know what I find out.

I tried moving to the secondary mounting point for the damper and it will not work. The damper hits the tank and will not allow a full turn of the bars.

Thanks
 

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It might be the steering angle, but I dont think so..

If you can use your steering lock, then the angle is "street" and your steeringdamper connection is in the right "hole" of the two.

Could it be that the steeringdamper MOUNT isn´t positioned correctly on the steeringdamper cylinder/body? Can it even be moved?

But I´d try to slide the chassi mount as far forward as possible wehn only loosening the bolts.

//amullo
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, steering lock works.
The damper to bike mount bolts into a fixed hole and the mount can only be in one position on the damper body. The damper body has a "fat" part and the mount will not clamp down on the "skinny" (rest of the damper) part of the damper body.
The damper does not have any play or range in the mounting areas to the bike. They are all a single bolt into a fixed hole.
I can't see any way to change the damper mount and since I tried another OE damper (mount and damper) and had the same problem I am leaning towards thinking that the problem may be something other than the damper itself.

Very confusing little thing....
 

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The steering head angle can only be in one of two positions for it to work. The position pin must be in its location on the right side of the steering tube. The pin assures the eccentric is located forward or to the rear. You can remove the pin only to be sure it is intact and coresponds to the locating hole.
 

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Does the bike have the stock airbox on it? Has it ever been off the bike (the airbox)?

Here's my guess: The locating pin and/or corresponding rubber gromet at the front of the airbox, or the airbox itself is letting the tank ride too far forward.
 

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My damper, doesn't quite touch the tank but it is very close and definitely much closer than it was. There seemed to be too much play in the mounting bracket and I suspected that the rubber bush inside might be worn so I took it off and in fact the actual bracket has a very fine split in it, meaning that it is slightly more open than it should be and the rubber bush is slightly looser than it should be, combine that with age and it gets very close to the tank.

I need to get a new bracket, or find a used damper (with bracket) as these go on ebay for less than the cost of the bracket from Ducati and there are usually (except when you're looking) many around due to people swapping for Ohlins dampers.

Otherwise I understand that the Ohlins dampers don't ever touch, even if wobbly as they're much thinner than the stock damper but I don't want to spend Ohlins damper money when the stock damper works just fine. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This maybe stupid BUT... If this is "normal" and since I can feel the divot in the tank... What is the chance that this will continue to wear and create a hole in the front of the tank ??? :(
 

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I have a '95 916 and it is also "normal" for me. But the leading edge of the tank (facing the damper) on early 916s is sloped slightly different from your tank, so although my problem was chronic, the damage wasn't as acute as the divots you found. I didn't really fix the problem, I just got around it with one of these things:



But if the stress of the damper rubbing on your tank is enough to make full on divots like you mention, then the cf may not be the answer.

Disclaimer: I have no afiliation with the product in the photo
 

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yeah, I'm looking to fix mine before it gets to the dent stage... I know mine is mounted properly but I'm going to remove it when I get a chance and look for additional wear. I think some gaffers tape on the front of the tank will act as a good protector in the meantime.
 

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I saw this post a few weeks back and was wondering if a cure was found. I had to replace a leaky upper coolant bottle recently and I am very sure I put everything back together correctly. But I am get progressively bad scratches on the dampener rod side of the tank. I replaced the rubber bushing on the dampener mount and the tank hold-in pin bushing had been replaced previously. Before the hold pin bushing had been replaced, the tank had alot of freeplay left to right. Plus my mechanic set my suspension back to street. I have already had to use a red sharpie marker so please give me a helping hand on this problem. Thanks
 

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AHHhhhh...i've seen the fix someday but i can't remember if it is in a book or a forum.
Nevermind, the trick is in the bracket. Sometimes the rubber (the green thing i think) is fitted the wrong way or moves.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
El_Gladiator said:
I'm sure the issue comes from the O-ring (ref:93823.2037) or/and the spacer (ref:716.1.049.1A). Seen on 998 part list PDF, page 101.


Problem with this is the tank has a fixed mounting position in the rear. The bolt goes through the tank tab in into the frame.
The front is spaced far enough back so that I have to shove the tank forward good and hard to get the bolt to line up in the hole..... so if I would "space" the tank back farther I would not be able to bolt down the rear. :confused:
 
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