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Dear Ducatisti,
I’m in a bind and would like your opinion. I have a very nice Ducati 996, low miles, smooth running, unmolested. But, one of the two bolts that holds the sidestand was a little loose, so I decided to use a Timesert to tighten things up, since the sidestand is kind of important. Long story short, through some devilry, the Timerset tool broke as I was about to back it out. The insert itself is seated, and if i could remove the broken install tool, I'd be set. But now, I can only use one bolt hole to mount the sidestand, which I’m not about to do. As I see it, I have three options:

1. Have a plate made that would allow me to use the two holes that are left to mount the sidestand. As things stand, the third hole is unused, and the plate would bridge to it. There’s a technical drawing floating around and it seems easy enough to have a shop do it. Downside: aesthetics. Although under the fairings, no one will notice.

2. Have a welder attach a rod to the broken tool and use the rod to unscrew the broken insert tool. Sounds nice, but I have no idea what kind of skills to look for in a welder to do the job. I contacted Timesert and they replied that the tool is: “M2 hardened to 60 rockwell”. I have zero metallurgy knowledge. If I got this route, what kind of shop should I look for?

3. I can split the cases and have a machine shop wire EDM the tool out. I prefer it, and it’s slick as snot in theory, but I don’t feel confident about my ability to reassemble my engine. I could be persuaded to try it, but at the cost of a few years of my life.

So, my question is: which option would you take in my situation? Any method i should alo consider? Thank you in advance for your thoughtful input.
p.s. Hole to the left is the issue. Black bolt and hole to the right are what i have to work with.

985493
 

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Well now you’ve gone and fucked it. R60 is hard but not undrillable (is that even a word?). Hardest centre punch and massage something resembling a flat somewhere and drill the biggest and best hole then chip away with the punch so the bit is in a few pieces. Slow, but not as painful as a rebuilt.
 

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Reverse drill bits at worth a try. I’ve learned never to extract hardened bits with an extraction tool. If the bit broke then a smaller tool still break even easier. Start chipping away lad.
 

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2 sounds best to me. But I would not try any of these myself. I'd leave it to a pro and probably pay out the ass.
Or maybe $100+ for an hour of shop time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the speedy replies. i see a pattern. It seems that chipping or drilling would be more of a machine shop than a bike shop job, no?
 

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Yes, a small machine shop would be my next stop.

What your location? Maybe someone here can advise.
 

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Machine shop. You’re not the first person to do this in your area. Maybe the first to do it in a Ducati, but not first overall. Just my $0.02
 

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one of those portable edm 'broken tap removers' could probably do it in place if you could get your hands on it
 

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Any half capable welder could use a MIG to weld a nut on. It will come right out. I have done it many dozens of times and never failed to remove a broken bolt.
 

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Where ever you take it ..they're going to extract it in whatever way they feel comfortable...a skilled welder will weld...a skilled machinist will drill...the diy will try a screw extractor...

The hardness of the tooling is only on the surface...the center is still drillable...if you have the patience...get a tiny die grinder on the end of a Dremel and core it....the working edge of the tool is going to be brittle and will shatter on its own or will peel away once enough is removed from the center....that's my impulsive approach...if it broke from binding that's the only option....if it broke from side loading and you have a welder that will be the quickest option...separating the cases to fix it to a mill and drill out from a machinist will be your most expensive and time consuming option...if it was mine...I'd get a set of jeweler's magnifying goggles and grind it...it's not that hard...it's just patience and time
 

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i'd weld something to it - a nut allows you to fill the centre with weld to get some good peno. or a sharpened bolt if it's too low in the case. unhook the battery and ecu and have at it with the mig.

otherwise, try a rescue bit. not sure what they're made of, but something that a sharp drill bit would only polish the resuce bit went through like it was butter farking. you have to wobble them around, but ime they're some pretty impressive shit.
 

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G,day Fred, welcome aboard mate.

As Brad says, if you're gonna weld it (or get a shop to) make sure you disconnect the battery!

I've used a dremel with success on a similar problem but that's when i had patience and decent eye sight as well as an empty wallet. These days i'm more inclined to get a pro to do it and pay to avoid the misery

Good luck.
 

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I’d us e a di e grinder or Dremel to put a guide hole in it, then a left hand bit to get it out.
Patience but not a lot of skill required.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You guys are giving me hope. Really i DON'T want to split the cases and you've given me a couple of solid options. I have an established shop that I'll drop the engine by on Monday and keep you posted. Thank you so much.
 
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