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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought this 98 ST2 last week knowing it needed a new reg/rec, turned out the cheap lead acid battery was toast too. I installed Rick's Motorsport Electrics, Inc reg/reg, part #10-001 - two yellow wire unit. The cheap reg/reg on the bike had already been relocated under the triple clamp so that's where the new one went.

I also relocated a new Lithium-Ion from Advance Auto under the seat in the tool tray. Linky

Specs: 12V, 260 CCA, Ah/Pb equivalent 14.

The auto parts store didn't have any 8 ga wires so used 6 ga for the battery positive, negative and the starter.

PO rebuilt the alternator.

I had it running sweetly, the charging indicator on the dash finally went out and was enjoying a very fun machine... for about an hour's worth of total riding as I ran errands yesterday. Then the ignition started cutting out, dash lights going dim and it finally stalled. When I coasted to a stop I took off the seat to check the LED status button on the battery - but that button had already popped out and the battery was hissing. I backed away.

Even though the key was turned off the battery kept deteriorating in an apparent thermal runaway, continuing a bad cocktail of chemical reactions. Smoke poured out of it as the pressures increased for several minutes and then the case popped really loudly like a gun blast. A gal had come out to get her mail next to where I pulled off the side of the road and I had her run and get a fire extinguisher. Thankfully there were no flames. The battery melted to the tool tray though.

1) Did I use too large of gauge wires?
2) Is the Amp/Hr rating a critical issue when changing over to a sealed Lithium-Ion?
3) The black wire on the reg/rec attached to two black wires on the wiring harness, where do these two black wires go and is the one-into-two an issue here? (reg/rec instructions say to hook up only to one black wire as using both would cause a fuse to blow. The bike ran great w/the new reg/rec until the battery failure)
 

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Did you ever check the charging voltage at 3000rpm? It sounds to me like the battery was charged with too high a voltage. LiIon batteries are not part of my diet, since if they do develop a problem, even fire extinguishers cannot put them out. If you have an event, it's usually a big event.

I'll stick with my AGM batteries, thanks.
 

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If the charging system was working, as in not overcharging, then my only thought here is the battery (and / or its location) is at fault. In that spot, I can't see how any air flow can get to the battery helping to cool it. Cooling may not be such a big issue, but may have contributed. I am thinking about how some phone and laptop (lithium) batteries can go into a meltdown, especially in the case of a cell phone left under a pillow, my guess is that's close to what happened.

Maybe double check the charging system is within limits. If it is, I'd take the battery back to Advance Auto and ask if anyone else has had a problem. Check the internet for reviews too.

Replace it with a known battery (like Shorai) and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Did you ever check the charging voltage at 3000rpm? It sounds to me like the battery was charged with too high a voltage. LiIon batteries are not part of my diet, since if they do develop a problem, even fire extinguishers cannot put them out. If you have an event, it's usually a big event.

I'll stick with my AGM batteries, thanks.
Stick, thanks for chiming in. The battery read 14.0V at 3k rpm. Key off the battery started at 13.5V and after a 5 mi test ride it was 13.6V.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the charging system was working, as in not overcharging, then my only thought here is the battery (and / or its location) is at fault. In that spot, I can't see how any air flow can get to the battery helping to cool it. Cooling may not be such a big issue, but may have contributed. I am thinking about how some phone and laptop (lithium) batteries can go into a meltdown, especially in the case of a cell phone left under a pillow, my guess is that's close to what happened.

Maybe double check the charging system is within limits. If it is, I'd take the battery back to Advance Auto and ask if anyone else has had a problem. Check the internet for reviews too.

Replace it with a known battery (like Shorai) and try again.
Good thoughts about overheating. I was hoping that with the rear cowlings off there would be sufficient air flow while riding to prevent excess heat build up.

I'm taking the battery back this morning to the store to see what they say. We pilfered a Shorai from a friends S4Rs last night. The battery is a direct replacement for the equivalent lead acid suggested for the ST2. When we tried to start the bike the fuel pump wouldn't stop running with the key switched on and the center of 3 fuses behind the ECU keeps blowing.

Based on research here on the forum this appears to be a fried ECU? No doubt caused by the epic battery failure.
 

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When we tried to start the bike the fuel pump wouldn't stop running with the key switched on and the center of 3 fuses behind the ECU keeps blowing.

Based on research here on the forum this appears to be a fried ECU? No doubt caused by the epic battery failure.
Unfortunately not impossible on the ECU. You may have just damaged the chip. You can get ST2 chips on eBay normally for less than $50.00. Worth a shot. ECUs can be had there too, $200 to $300 range. Any of the 1.6M will work. I have an ST2 ECU in my 916. The chip makes it bike specific. When I was putting the 916 together I ran into the fuel pump running all the time issue. Turned out to be a bad/wrong chip.

On the blown fuse, I'm not familiar with the ST2 layout. Here's the schematic.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71253082/Ducati%20ST2%20-%201998%20Schematic.pdf
 

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Stick, thanks for chiming in. The battery read 14.0V at 3k rpm. Key off the battery started at 13.5V and after a 5 mi test ride it was 13.6V.
14V doesn't sound excessive for Li battery. If it were over 14.5V, I'd be accusing the charging system.

Try an AGM before going with another Li battery. See if the store will warranty yours.
 

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I have a AGM battery laid down in the position where the tool box was. Its been there for over two years without issue just so you know it is doable.

No experience with LI I'm afraid.

I went heavier than original on the cables (can't recall the gauge).

Reg/rec is also under the bottom triple - good location for cooling and no issues there also.

derky
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unfortunately not impossible on the ECU. You may have just damaged the chip. You can get ST2 chips on eBay normally for less than $50.00. Worth a shot. ECUs can be had there too, $200 to $300 range. Any of the 1.6M will work. I have an ST2 ECU in my 916. The chip makes it bike specific. When I was putting the 916 together I ran into the fuel pump running all the time issue. Turned out to be a bad/wrong chip.

On the blown fuse, I'm not familiar with the ST2 layout. Here's the schematic.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71253082/Ducati%20ST2%20-%201998%20Schematic.pdf
Awesome! Thanks so much for that link. I got a PDF of the ST2 shop manual but it's in black and white. The manual does not state which of the three fuses does what, only that they protect the ECU.

In this thread a ST2 owner documents his trials with the blown fuse/fuel pump issue after a battery charging accident which is what leads me to believe it's the ECU.

Advance Auto is contacting their battery reps now to find out what can be done. They've never seen a failure like this and they are the biggest volume seller of these Lithium Ions in central FL.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Eprom chip coming from Slovakia, should be here this week or early next. Once it's in I suspect the it will regulate the fuel pump priming issue and keep the fuse from blowing. If that's the case and we get it started here are my questions:

How do I accurately test:
1) the alternator
2) regulator

Any other weak points to consider or areas to test? I've gone over the wiring harness and all the fuses to make sure nothing's melted or blown.

I have a thought to run an additional ground strap from the negative battery post to the frame. Is this a good practice?

Any other folks on here running a Shorai? What's been your experience?

I'm really appreciating all who have chimed in. As if owning a motorcycle isn't interesting enough we add more unique complexities by choosing Ducati's! :surprise: But man do they sing to the soul!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ducati dealer has ran tests and says the ECU is likely fried. Everything else looks good at this point but the yellow 20A fuse keeps blowing every time you turn the key on. Pull the EPROM chip and the fuse doesn't pop, the bike will turn over, but there's no spark.

Does anyone know which ECUs of this vintage (for a '98 ST2) will fit? It's my understanding the EPROM does the work of telling the bike the timing, etc. Is this correct?
 

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A side note on putting a Rick's R/R under the triple tree, check the distance of R/R to fender, I had to machine the fins down to get enough clearance to match fork travel.
 

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Does anyone know which ECUs of this vintage (for a '98 ST2) will fit? It's my understanding the EPROM does the work of telling the bike the timing, etc. Is this correct?
Any of the 1.6M will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The ECU was indeed toast. Bought a used unit on eBay and the bike fired right up with it. But, it was still overcharging. Going on the table lift this weekend for further analysis.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
17.2 volts at the battery on fast idle. No good. I'm eating batteries.

Research yields a potentially good solution in fitting a MOFSET type Japanese bike reg/rec.

Advice/input/questions from electrical experts appreciated. It's gonna' be a fun, fun bike once I get it charging correctly.
 

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No good. I'm eating batteries.
And frying ECUs...

Research yields a potentially good solution in fitting a MOFSET type Japanese bike reg/rec.
Yes. The VRR out of an 07 /09 era R1, Shendingen FH012AA, is what I am using in both bikes. They work very well. Nice even voltage and cooler running. One of the bikes is an older single phase. There is no problem installing the VRR with one of the three inputs simply not connected. The Shendingen FH012AA VRR is easy to find used on eBay for around $40.00. You can get them new as well in the link below.

In this link you can also get the needed plug kit to adapt your bike's wiring. I'm cheap and bought the plug kit with used VRRs from eBay. Did the work for around $60.00 each bike. I had the wiring and wring supplies already on hand.

Home
 

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One thing to check: Make SURE there's no connection to chassis for your stator. If there's any leakage to chassis, it upsets RRs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
And frying ECUs...



Yes. The VRR out of an 07 /09 era R1, Shendingen FH012AA, is what I am using in both bikes. They work very well. Nice even voltage and cooler running. One of the bikes is an older single phase. There is no problem installing the VRR with one of the three inputs simply not connected. The Shendingen FH012AA VRR is easy to find used on eBay for around $40.00. You can get them new as well in the link below.

In this link you can also get the needed plug kit to adapt your bike's wiring. I'm cheap and bought the plug kit with used VRRs from eBay. Did the work for around $60.00 each bike. I had the wiring and wring supplies already on hand.

Home
Wow! Thanks for posting all that in one place for me. I really appreciate it. My confidence is growing I can get this Duc relatively reliable.
 
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