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Hi just picked up my new old bike 79 900 super sport this is my first bevel one thing I noticed is how heavy the clutch is ,I gather this is normal for a cable run clutch but is there anything you can do to make it lighter?

Thanks.
 

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If it was mine, I take the clutch cable clear off the bike and clean it up inside and out with a strong solvent, if the thing has grease in it. Then I'd load the inside of it with powdered graphite, also paying close attention to the pivot where it anchors to the clutch lever.
You may need a new cable. The nylon sleeve at the engine end might be missing or worn out. Even with a good cable, the clutch pull is heavy, but its managable when everything is right with the cable and actual clutch assembly.
 

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http://www.bevelheaven.com/~BB/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=92 Please also read the link above on my forum regarding the clutch rods etc which definately need removal, cleaning, skotch-brite, lube and reinstall.

Very important to have as easy bends as possible on the clutch cable [not a tight bend] and proper cable adjustment.

The clutch actuator arm must be in the right position.

The clutch lever must be properly adjusted and lubricated.

If you still think it is tough, we have longer clutch actuator arms which decrease the effort required somewhere around 20%.
 

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I lived with the hard clutch pull for a few years on mine, the cable broke and I bought a replacement. I installed the replacement and it didn't help the pull force required in the least bit.

That cable broke too, the solder joint gave way at the handle, the cable pulled right through and the cable end remained in the lever (or fell on the floor, I don't remember which) but the point is, is that the cable itself did not break, the solder joint failed.

I resoldered it and it worked but I did not want to trust it on the road. I got a cable from my dealer (I think it was a Barnett brand cable). He lubed it for me when I picked it up.

I got home and installed it. The cable end that fits in the lever was smaller than the cable I bought before and even the wire cable itself seemed a smaller diameter?

Anyway I installed it, adjusted it and the pull is considerably lighter. I can even now hit neutral without having to be rolling.

So all I can conclude from that is to get a good brand cable, not some unbranded generic one (the 2nd cable I had fit that description). Pre lube it, route it and adjust it correctly and...well it worked in my case.

Good luck and enjoy the bevel 900 SS. I love mine but it is not the machine for long rides. I did over 300 miles on it one day and my hands buzzed for a week.
 

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So all I can conclude from that is to get a good brand cable, not some unbranded generic one (the 2nd cable I had fit that description). Pre lube it, route it and adjust it correctly and...well it worked in my case.
+1 on that.

When I first put my 750 together I didn't lube the clutch cable. The effort to pull the lever was horrendous. I pulled the cable back off, lubed it up, and installed a new perch/lever. Now the clutch pull is light enough I don't even think about it, even though the routing isn't optimized for an "easy pull".

I had also cleaned and checked the actuating rods in the engine of course.

Point being, if you properly lube and set up the stock parts, the clutch will work well. I wonder if the people that look for add ons to decrease the effort have ever taken the time to properly set up the stock parts to begin with... it's a good first step anyway, the results may surprise you.
 

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Clutch lever pull

My 900gts allways pulled hard no matter what, had the engine built for power and speed and ordered the (grip-no-slip clutch installed) this is 3 norton springs in between the 3 stock springs, I believe I could pull long wheelies with it. how ever the clutch pull is twice as hard as stock.
The upside is at 62, I now have one of the strongest left hand in Florida!!
CAPT.PAUL
 

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http://www.bevelheaven.com/~BB/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=92 Please also read the link above on my forum regarding the clutch rods etc which definately need removal, cleaning, skotch-brite, lube and reinstall.

Very important to have as easy bends as possible on the clutch cable [not a tight bend] and proper cable adjustment.

The clutch actuator arm must be in the right position.

The clutch lever must be properly adjusted and lubricated.

If you still think it is tough, we have longer clutch actuator arms which decrease the effort required somewhere around 20%.
Hi Bevel,
Any suggestions or parts that would lighten the pull on my 851 Strada Superbike? 1991, 11,000 miles. Clutch is Hydraulic, not cable. Thanks, Blake, Tustin, Ca
 

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You might be able to do what I did with my GT1000, and that is to place washers on top of the spring pillars, which in effect stops the springs compressing as much.
 

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You might be able to do what I did with my GT1000, and that is to place washers on top of the spring pillars, which in effect stops the springs compressing as much.
Perhaps I misunderstood your post. Adding a shim on a post would shorten the installed length of the spring and increase the spring compression, not decrease it. This is because the bolt is tightened down until it seats in the hub. So, the bolt length controls the spring preload.

A longer bolt (Part #3), or a less-stiff spring, or even removing two opposing springs would be the methods
Clutch Parts List.jpg
to reduce the overall spring force on the pressure plate (and clutch lever pull force)..
 

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Thanks for the reply from both of you. I think maybe trying the lighter springs might work. It would be a balancing act to have less force but not allow disc slippage under load. All I need is maybe 1/4 less force. Thanks again, Blake, Tustin, Ca
 

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Hello Strega,
Do you have any idea why it is almost impossible to find neutral in this 851 trans? No matter how delicate I am with my foot it just clicks right through neutral to the opposite gear, up or down. A real pain in the neck (wrist) at stop lights. Thx Blake
 

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Do you have any idea why it is almost impossible to find neutral in this 851 trans? No matter how delicate I am with my foot it just clicks right through neutral to the opposite gear, up or down. A real pain in the neck (wrist) at stop lights.
If you can find neutral while still moving, but before you stop, then the likely reason is that your clutch is dragging due to an incomplete clutch disengagement. The solution is to bleed off any (compressible) air in the system to assure full movement of the pressure plate. Ducati makes it quite difficult to remove all the air by placing the bleed nipple at the slave cylinder low point — instead of at the highest point in the system where the air bubbles accumulate. I installed a bleed nipple at the master cylinder.

Untitled.jpg


Another trick is to bleed by loosening and tightening the banjo bolt at the master cylinder like you would if it was a bleeder bolt. You'll need some rags to catch the fluid discharge, but you can get the air out. Hydraulic fluid will damage painted surfaces so cover everything.

Regarding a 1/4 lever force reduction:

The most common solution used to reduce Ducati clutch lever force is to replace the stock 25 mm diameter slave cylinder with a larger 29 mm aftermarket unit such as the Oberon (26% pull force reduction). This gives a more favorable hydraulic ratio but results in a longer lever pull needed for full disengagement that may make your neutral problem worse — so do a fluid bleed first to see if that cures it. Don't use a slave larger than 29 mm.
 

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Putting a washer under the spring cup effectively lengthens the spring pillar and so compresses the spring less.
 

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I did the same, my pressure plate always lifted one side first and nothing made it disconnect in straight manner. So i put small washers under 3 spring cup where pressure plate lifted less. Now it lifted straight and disconnected nicely. Late i changed the clutch inner drum and not needed those washers. Newer understood what it was but those washers just worked.
 

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First time on a bevel for 15 plus years. Previously ride a 78 900.
Ferociously hard clutch.
Using a Sureflex now.
Soooo much lighter.
 

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Hi Ashleyf,
I am unfamiliar with the 'Sureflex' you mention above. Can you please explain what that is.
Thanks, Flatop.
 

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Surflex are the makers of all vintage Italian clutch plates; they make a kit to fit bevel Ducatis that features narrower plates, giving a smaller surface area, which gives more spring pressure on the plate surface.

Scroll down here:DUCATI bei desmo - The bevel Side of Life ... Königswelle Teile und mehr> under 'Product News' the clutch arm is what I use, it makes the clutch much lighter.
 
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