I made heavier cables for my 1998 ST2 when I went to a bigger AGM battery.
My 1st battery lasted for 7 years, helped by a trickle/float charger.
I can't say the cables helped a whole bunch.
I decided to get a larger 22Ahr battery with upwards of 600 CCA. I don't like ever needing to push/bump-start the bike, so I felt that the bigger, maint.-free battery was the way to go.
Ducati decided the other way in 2002... The older ST bikes had a 16Ahr lead-acid battery. The post 2002 ones have a 12 Ahr maint.-free AGM battery. So right away, the newer DUCs are down on capacity. And they jammed something into the battery tray, so going to a bigger one like I did now, needs a lot of relocating of stuff to make it happen. So with the smaller capacity batteries, you should definately use a trickle/float charger daily.
Note that the new battery was slightly different in size (3" wide vs 2.78" for OEM), and I needed to modify the battery box a bit, but the fairing fits like normal.
I believe I have this upgrade quantified in the archive area in the ST area (with photos).
Oh, if you want to see if your cables are a problem: Run a voltmeter along each cable. Start with one test leed on the lead post of the battery. Place the other probe on the starter post. Then have someone hit the starter button. If there's a problem, you'll see a volt or 2 on this wire (only when the big current is flowing). Do the same for the (-) cable--go from the bat. post to the engine.
When I say right on the battery, I mean don't clip or hold the probes on those clips that are connected to the battery...go right to the battery. This is because there's a voltage drop right at these (crappy) terminal thingies.
If you do see a volt or 2, you can move the probe up towards the battery to pinpoint the problem. The problem could be lousy contacts inside the solenoid...or it could be one of the crimped lugs on your wires...or it could be the I(squared)R losses inside your battery.
The way to check this last one (I2R) is to just watch the 12V right at your battery terminals when cranking. A sag to about 10V when cranking is not bad...much lower than this means probably time for a battery.
Another way to check is to crank (especially when the engine cranks very slowly, or stops briefly on each comp. stroke--you get about 180A when this happens), and then feel along each cable for hot spots. The hotter areas indicate resistive connections.
I'll turn you ladies and gents into electrical gurus eventually!