Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

41 - 60 of 62 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Done mine today.
Purchased the Tusk one (paid more on postage and custom taxes than the actual pads but hey is only pennies compared to the OEM).

Only replaced the right and both now working. I will take some temperature readings later to see if there is any difference between them. If not, I will leave them as is and replace the left only if noticeably less than right.

I decided to solder the wires directly on the pads at the end - it was much quicker and easier for me.

The length is spot on but the width a bit too short as is not going round all the way, needs one more centimetre - hopefully it wont be noticeable and the tip of my fingers will get worm as well ;-).

Thanks to all for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Reviving old thread, mine just went out last week on '14 MTS 1200 GT. It was working all along. The bike has 11.7k miles. I did install the arrow full system and it went out right after that. So now I am guessing that I missed a connector. The dash says "activated" but won't heat. Hoping to not replace the grips.

Btw, how much did your dealer charge for installing? Dealer here said $300 for install and $300 for the grips.

And yes, I have the fuel sensor error for about 1000 miles now >:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
87 Posts
Same here (except for the Arrow). I paid about $450. Way too much.
Next time I'll do it myself with aftermarket grips. I put a set on an S4Rs and it was a beautiful thing. I even put the board and controller into the left switch.
And according to my dealer, the MS grips will go out again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Same here (except for the Arrow). I paid about $450. Way too much.
Next time I'll do it myself with aftermarket grips. I put a set on an S4Rs and it was a beautiful thing. I even put the board and controller into the left switch.
And according to my dealer, the MS grips will go out again.
I am going to try what the guys recommend above. I need to see an open circuit to make sure I haven't screwed up anything when installing arrow. I don't think I have because if I did, I would think the dash would light up like a X-Mas tree with a lot more faults. The fact that the dash say "activated" tell me the wiring is correct.

The bike is at the dealer right now for the stupid DSS error. Once I have it back, I'll update on my findings with the resistance readings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Done mine today.
Purchased the Tusk one (paid more on postage and custom taxes than the actual pads but hey is only pennies compared to the OEM).

Only replaced the right and both now working. I will take some temperature readings later to see if there is any difference between them. If not, I will leave them as is and replace the left only if noticeably less than right.

I decided to solder the wires directly on the pads at the end - it was much quicker and easier for me.

The length is spot on but the width a bit too short as is not going round all the way, needs one more centimetre - hopefully it wont be noticeable and the tip of my fingers will get worm as well ;-).

Thanks to all for your help.
This is very promising. Ordering the tusk while I wait for the bike from the dealer. 0:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Mine have been replaced twice on my 13 multi. First set at 10k and second set at 24k. I do use my heated grips a lot but they should last longer than that. I'm very thankful that warranty has covered both of them. I now have 40k miles and they still work but for how long? Dealer claims that if dash shows they are on then it has to be grips or wiring. I tried the not using them on HIGH trick on the second set. It seemed to make no difference as they went out with approximately the same amount of usage as first set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Just got the bike from dealership. Measured the resistance. 7.1 ohms (as expected, good grip) on the left and 55k ohms (bad grip) on the right. So so happy to see I have the same problem as the guys mentioned above. Now I am 100x more confident that the $20 kit would fix the problem. Waiting period for the kit to arrive begins.....It gives me so much happiness thinking that now if the grips go out again, the fix is cheap and quick. A zillion gazillion thanks to the genius whop posted the solution above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
SUCCESS!!!

So finally go around to installing the tusk kit. WORKED like a charm :yeah:. The heated grips are functional again. Just changed the one on throttle side and kept one as a spare.

I had a tough time working with the tab on the throttle end where the soldering was done. Couldn't figure out a way to pull the tab so removed the existing pad as is with some pulling force. Forced the new pads to go under the tab, wrapped them around and then soldered it directly on the pads. Like @starvich mentioned, the tusk pads are about an cm short so they don't wrap around completely. But I can live with it.

Thank you Aaron Little for the genius trick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
After reading this thread, it's comforting to know I'm not the only one who thinks the stock multi grip heaters don't put out a lot of heat. I thought my grips were defective. I have some Oxfords and a different brand on my other bikes, and I normally can't turn either of them all the way up because they put out so much heat. However, my Oxfords are starting to degrade in output after 7-8 hours of use on the highest setting while on a trip riding in 25 deg. F ambient weather cruising at 85 mph. Thank god for the Oxfords! They saved my hands.

Also great to know there is a cheap and easy solution to replacing the heating element on the multi.

Ducorama
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Glad to hear the tusk heated grips are working as well. I've wired in a set of the oxford heated grips on my diavel strada and they also work great with the oem controls. I peeled apart my ducati oem grips after they failed and here's what I found...

The oxfords can be had on ebay for about USD$70. And here is what you can find on amazon for $8

Ducati should be doing better than this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
913 Posts
Guys, here's the deal. The stock heating elements are 7.5 ohm. The dash will not send voltage to the heating elements (either side) unless there is that 7.5 ohm load. If the heating element is broken, the circuit will read as open or very high impedance. To check it, you have to peel back your grip a bit from the inside to reach the contacts with a multi-meter (see photo below).

Also, if you want to know why they go bad: My throttle tube has an indentation in the plastic, under the heating element. It is where a logo was imprinted in the plastic tube, and underneath the outside of the rider's right hand. Under constant pressure from your hands and the grip, along with the expansion and contraction from heat, the heating element is pressed into this indentation. This causes the heating element to eventually break and the circuit to fail open.

If the heating element needs to be replaced, I recommend the following part. The element wires are much thicker and sturdier and these also get hotter than stock.
These are the same size and impedance as stock and only need slight modification with an exacto knife (see second photo).

If you need some help, feel free to contact me.

IMG_20180714_170123.jpg


2019-10-18 09_26_47-IMG_20180714_164943.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Back again since a bit of a holiday - dang drought and farming in our part of Australia.
The heated grips are way better than the originals there's no way I would put them on maX other than heating them up.
Is the pad stuck on the bar or inside the rubber grips. No the heater pads are on a plastic sleeve on the left and on the throttle tube on the right. just a matter of peeling them off the tubes and sticking the new ones on
How to remove the grips and how to remove the pad. use a blow gun slipped up under the tube and grip and once it swells up slowly work it off while the air is still blowing,
How did you use the air compressor as above
Used the bike's existing wires? used the new heater pad wires as far as they would let me so the joins were closer to the head stock of the bike and then they are largely unnoticeableDe-soldered the pad's wire and re-solder bike's wire on the pad? steer clear of soldering the pads easier to deal with wires
Is it a case of just pushing the grip over the new pad? the same as taking off use the air compressor blower gun to swell it up - but start the grip on first
Measuring resistance while the grips are still connected to the wire loom - is this correct. Yes while they are connected the ones I used matched the old heaters 7.5ohm - great way also to make sure you have done the right job before zipping up I would have thought that this will measure the resistance of whatever is on the other as well.grips are hooked up in series so if one goes the ecu will not trigger them on, on my originals the clutch side had failed but the throttle side was good - changed both out to have the same under both grips

Its a fiddly job to get the wires in correct but I am more than happy with the outcome.
Cheers windi
Thanks for the detailed response. I just picked up a set of the Tusk heaters. Does anyone happen to have pictures of your install?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Thanks for the detailed response. I just picked up a set of the Tusk heaters. Does anyone happen to have pictures of your install?
gg48gg, thanks for the detailed pics. I put my multimeter on both left and right grip heaters and both showed an open circuit. Does that sound right? It would seem like it would be one or the other but what are the chances both would be bad?
Also, if I don't have access to an air compressor, what's the best way to get the grips off the handlebar?
 
41 - 60 of 62 Posts
Top