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If it’s any consolation, I have experienced the same with my Multistrada 2012. Gone through 2 sets of OEM grips and now I’m just tired of changing them out. And it is correct, there is no fuse (which seems bezare really?) but it’s all fault isolated and controlled through the dash. Basically if the power source is too low it will switch them off, or if one or both of the grips has an impedance/resistance fault (like open circuit or short circuit) it will isolate until not sensed (changed to a serviceable set).

All I can say is Ducati must make the most crap heated grips ever because they never last for me longer than one season and yet I have had Oxford Grips on a Vstrom that last 130,000km and were still working when I sold the bike. I’m tempted to put oxford grips in place of OEM grips and splice the wires so that I can plug it into the dash control power source. But I’m unsure if the heater elements are of similar resistance and would work?


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Does anybody have the electrical specs for the stock vs. aftermarket (e.g. Oxford) grips? Mine are not working but the dealer is having trouble with Ducati Central in even acknowledging the problem. I just want heated grips that work! Would love to find something that worked in place of the originals. EDIT: sorry just saw the reply from Aaron. Thanks and I will give your trick a try-
 

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Thanks for that.

I can see on the picture you posted that there is a two letter code at the end (CZ). Searching on eBay I could see numerous others with different codes (AG, LE, X4Q2 etc.). It's probably something stupid that isn't crossing my mind right now but do you have any idea what they stand for?


I hadn’t really noticed until you brought it up, and after trying to google it for answers I come up short too. My biggest concern was same resistance, pad size would be correct for grip ( not to big or small), orientation of the contacts for connecting pad. As I was using pad replacements and not the whole rubber over grip I didn’t need to be concerned about diameter bar size etc. I’m sure someone out there knows the codification breakdown?


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When I installed my Oxford grips on my 2015, I measured the resistance of the OEM grips, and I tried the Oxford grips with the OEM/dash controller.

OEM grips measured 7.0 to 7.3 ohms.
I calculated the Oxford grips to be 6.8 ohms based on the specs.

When I connected the Oxford grips to the OEM/dash controller, the grips were warmer than the stock grips but still nowhere near warm enough.

I didn't try the Oxford controller with the OEM grips because at that point I just wanted to get to a successful result, and felt that using the entire Oxford system together was my best bet.

The Oxford grips with the Oxford controller is an excellent setup. The grips are very toasty. I've heard of people not being able to use them on hot, but I do all the time. Maybe because my cold weather gloves have thicker insulation on the palms.
 

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Ok so I’m updating to this thread after having some time to read all the advise, do some quick testing of my own and get in the cheap parts.

If you have OEM heated grips already installed don’t do what I did first and strip the bike down to get under the tank to unplug the harness left and right to impedance check, instead roll back the rubber grip closest to the wire end to expose the heated grip underneath and particularly the two contact points where the wire lugs are rivet /soldered to the heater mat. With a multimeter set to ohms measure the resistance between the two contacts (make sure bike power is off). If you have a reading that is like 6-8 ohms or similar (basically not open circuit) that heated grip is good, however if you get an open circuit or very high resistance it’s kaput and as the sensing part of the heated grip cct needs both to be the correct continuity to actually turn on it will not provide power.

My cheap arse fix cost $7.81 including free postage from China ebay seller. That included the heater mats, electrical tape, heat shrink for keeping them in place wiring harness and switch.

I basically cut one heater mat with 1inch of wire harness from the harness, stripped and tinned the wires, removed old OEM heater mat from the grip (after rolling/sliding rubber over grip from bar) I left the two rivet contacts in place and added solder to them, then soldered new heater mat to contacts (one wire to each). Wrapped heater mat around bare grip, taped in place, heat shrinked over that and then replaced rubber grip. Took 15mins max to do. Works a treat and in all three heat settings through Ducati controller.

So just to repeat it took 3 mins to test grips for open cct, and 15 mins to replace one side (throttle side in my case) with a $7.81 heater grip mat from China. Longest part of this whole evolution was waiting 2 weeks for the part to turn up.



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I bought ones that look like those. They are about 12 ohm (instead of 7.5 like oem) and about 4 degrees cooler than stock. They also do not have adhesive backs. The up side is that they are thicker than stock and feel more durable. I only replaced one side and was disappointed with the difference in heat. I also didn't like the way the terminals fit on the grips. I ended up getting a set of these to use instead. I will let you guys know how they work out.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/998/23097/Tusk-Grip-Heater-Kit
 

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By the way, the plastic tubes under the OEM heating elements are what I think are the culprit of the heated grip malfunctions. The tubes have an indented stamp in them during manufacturing. So, this creates a pea size divot underneath the element. Consistent pressure in this area seems to me to bee what caused the open circuit. On the right side, this is just where the outside of your hand rests. I'll try to remember to take a photo when I replace it.

Here is a photo of the chinese heating element installed. You can see it is a little long and slightly overlaps. You can also see that the part of your hand between your pointer finger and thumb will be resting on the contacts.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SkN7BT8jmNWzJyfQ6
 

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Tusk pads available from Rocky Mountain ATV are the same size and impedence as stock. The Tusk has adhesive backing as well. Same arrangement and direction wire exit off the pads too. Really good reviews on line too. These should be a good swap. Photos attached. IMG_20180624_140123.jpeg IMG_20180624_140235.jpeg

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@gg48gg ,
How did the Tusk replacement go? Any challenges and how were the results
 

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@gg48gg ,
How did the Tusk replacement go? Any challenges and how were the results
I have just put the tusks in today. I think I have a problem as they seem to not be heating up. My originals went left hand first then nothing thus the reason for changing them out. Do the originals throw a code to the ECU as not working and the code needs to be cleared before working? Also noted that the tusk heat pads come with a resistor - does that need to go in as well?
Cheers
windi
 

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I did not use the resistor and everything seems to be fine, but I only tested them once for about 30 minutes. I am heading out for a 4k mile trip in about 15 minutes:) I will report back if I have any issues. I only changed the left (clutch) side.

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I did not use the resistor and everything seems to be fine, but I only tested them once for about 30 minutes. I am heading out for a 4k mile trip in about 15 minutes:) I will report back if I have any issues. I only changed the left (clutch) side.

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Standing by with interest on this one. My 2013 MTS throttle heater gave up the ghost today. 20,000km in, looks like I did better than some... Every time I used them I was expecting them to f*** out after reading the stories. Love to find a robust solution that will outlast at least the rubber grips themselves!...

How did yours look after the install? Able to make them look clean and tidy like the stock elements?

Guess the fuel sensor will go kaput next ;)
 

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Standing by with interest on this one. My 2013 MTS throttle heater gave up the ghost today. 20,000km in, looks like I did better than some... Every time I used them I was expecting them to f*** out after reading the stories. Love to find a robust solution that will outlast at least the rubber grips themselves!...

How did yours look after the install? Able to make them look clean and tidy like the stock elements?

Guess the fuel sensor will go kaput next ;)
Follow up from my post. Went back over the install and found I had broken a connection. Resistance checks out same as originals. Darkness got me so will put everything back tomorrow and give it a test, expect that they will be all good now.

Yep the install is perfect a bit of cutting a bit of filing and no one will be the wiser that a $40.00 repair instead of $400 replacement.

I used compressed air to remove the grips and put them back. Also confident to say I can change the grips when they finally wear out.

Forums are great - learn something new and save a bucket load of dollars in the process.
Thanks to all
windi

:laugh::grin2::yeah:
 

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Follow up from my post. Went back over the install and found I had broken a connection. Resistance checks out same as originals. Darkness got me so will put everything back tomorrow and give it a test, expect that they will be all good now.

Yep the install is perfect a bit of cutting a bit of filing and no one will be the wiser that a $40.00 repair instead of $400 replacement.

I used compressed air to remove the grips and put them back. Also confident to say I can change the grips when they finally wear out.

Forums are great - learn something new and save a bucket load of dollars in the process.
Thanks to all
windi

:laugh::grin2::yeah:
Sounds like a great result! I love a simple solution to a Ducati catastrophe. Where abouts did you guys slice/connect the wires for the new elements?
 

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Follow up from my post. Went back over the install and found I had broken a connection. Resistance checks out same as originals. Darkness got me so will put everything back tomorrow and give it a test, expect that they will be all good now.

Yep the install is perfect a bit of cutting a bit of filing and no one will be the wiser that a $40.00 repair instead of $400 replacement.

I used compressed air to remove the grips and put them back. Also confident to say I can change the grips when they finally wear out.

Forums are great - learn something new and save a bucket load of dollars in the process.
Thanks to all
windi

:laugh::grin2::yeah:

Hey Windi, how'd you get on with these elements? Working 100%? I'm looking to buy my replacement sometime this week and not sure what to go for...
 

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@windi , @Aaron Little & @gg48gg

Thanks for your posts resolving this issue. After 40k miles the heated grips on my 2013 MTS gave up as well.

Your solution seems to be the best but any chance you can give me the idiot guide in how to go about it. Already picked some good points but still not confident to go for it.

Is the pad stuck on the bar or inside the rubber grips.
How to remove the grips and how to remove the pad.
How did you use the air compressor
Used the bike's existing wires? De-soldered the pad's wire and re-solder bike's wire on the pad?
Is it a case of just pushing the grip over the new pad?
Measuring resistance while the grips are still connected to the wire loom - is this correct. I would have thought that this will measure the resistance of whatever is on the other as well.

I know they are stupid questions but did say an "idiot guide" :)

Pictures go a long way even just to point which screw or where to take measurements

I know I am asking a lot but it could be of great help to me and others
 

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Back again since a bit of a holiday - dang drought and farming in our part of Australia.
The heated grips are way better than the originals there's no way I would put them on maX other than heating them up.
Is the pad stuck on the bar or inside the rubber grips. No the heater pads are on a plastic sleeve on the left and on the throttle tube on the right. just a matter of peeling them off the tubes and sticking the new ones on
How to remove the grips and how to remove the pad. use a blow gun slipped up under the tube and grip and once it swells up slowly work it off while the air is still blowing,
How did you use the air compressor as above
Used the bike's existing wires? used the new heater pad wires as far as they would let me so the joins were closer to the head stock of the bike and then they are largely unnoticeableDe-soldered the pad's wire and re-solder bike's wire on the pad? steer clear of soldering the pads easier to deal with wires
Is it a case of just pushing the grip over the new pad? the same as taking off use the air compressor blower gun to swell it up - but start the grip on first
Measuring resistance while the grips are still connected to the wire loom - is this correct. Yes while they are connected the ones I used matched the old heaters 7.5ohm - great way also to make sure you have done the right job before zipping up I would have thought that this will measure the resistance of whatever is on the other as well.grips are hooked up in series so if one goes the ecu will not trigger them on, on my originals the clutch side had failed but the throttle side was good - changed both out to have the same under both grips

Its a fiddly job to get the wires in correct but I am more than happy with the outcome.
Cheers windi
 

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@windi - Many Thanks, very useful indeed.

took resistance measurements at the grips connections - moved the rubber back .

Left grip = 7.8 ohms
Right grip = open

Just my luck to be the right :frown2:

Will order the Tusk one - thanks to Amazon is available in UK :)
 

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@Stavrich. Hope you have success with it. Found that they heat up very quickly and the max setting is something just to get them up to temp. The low setting with gloves is warm and the medium setting is toasty.
Cheers
windi
 

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When they crap out again I will try the Tusk option.
Unfortunately, it will crap out again. The original one on my 2012 has also been replaced under warranty after 2 years and the replacement just quit couple of weeks ago after 4 years.
I'm also going for the Tusk option now.
 

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@windi - while still awaiting delivery couple of more questions for you.

Is it ok to replace just the faulty pad or this will create a problem, resistance imbalance.

Are the rubber grips glued on the pads or just really tight.

Cheers
 
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