Don't have a solution but working same problem on one of my bikes. You're not alone
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headlight dull
Hi folks,
replaced my headlight as the old one gave off no light whatsoever in dipped beam, bike shop noticed that the inside of the reflector was dull and matted. It was so bad he couldnt adjust the beam as the light was so weak. He also said it could be the electrics, not enough voltage.
Took the bike with the new (secondhand) light fitted to a friend who also said the beam was to weak. It looks like it gets the power it needs on main beam instead of dipped, as if the switch "misses a step".
I know bike headlights are pretty crap, but this is just dangerous, anyone had similar problems/knows a fix??
I will break out the electrical tester and see which values i get at the bulb, if thats any help.....
thanks in advance...
replaced my headlight as the old one gave off no light whatsoever in dipped beam, bike shop noticed that the inside of the reflector was dull and matted. It was so bad he couldnt adjust the beam as the light was so weak. He also said it could be the electrics, not enough voltage.
Took the bike with the new (secondhand) light fitted to a friend who also said the beam was to weak. It looks like it gets the power it needs on main beam instead of dipped, as if the switch "misses a step".
I know bike headlights are pretty crap, but this is just dangerous, anyone had similar problems/knows a fix??
I will break out the electrical tester and see which values i get at the bulb, if thats any help.....
thanks in advance...
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i'll keep you posted, just stripped the fairing off, start testing tonight if the kids give me a minutes peace...
done a quick test, first off, i had placed a blue tinted sidelight bulb in the unit, its now burned brown (the last one fell off the workbench, it was still blue) and i had fitted a higher wattage bulb with the last headlight in the hope it would help... no it didnt!
someone has already been busy with the wiring, cut and shut with spade connectors going onto the multiplug.
first pic, the top (earth?) connection has melted some of the plastic.
second pic getting 11.24V when switching on dipped beam.
third pic getting 10.61V when switching to full beam.
electrics not really my thing, but i would think these values are ok? the beam is very bright on full, but dim as hell on dipped.
engine was not running battery voltage was just over 12V when i started.
anyone any ideas?
someone has already been busy with the wiring, cut and shut with spade connectors going onto the multiplug.
first pic, the top (earth?) connection has melted some of the plastic.
second pic getting 11.24V when switching on dipped beam.
third pic getting 10.61V when switching to full beam.
electrics not really my thing, but i would think these values are ok? the beam is very bright on full, but dim as hell on dipped.
engine was not running battery voltage was just over 12V when i started.
anyone any ideas?
Attachments
2
The voltage drop associated with small wires and their length plus switches and connectors = crap lights.
This pic shows roughly the output from an H4 bulb vs the voltage at the bulb. For example, if the light was getting full battery V of 13.5, you would get about 1200 lumens, but if you have 2 V loss/drop, then the light will on put out about 650 lumens!
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The attachment is a DIY guide to making a slave, heavy duty circuit.
I have had this in my 900 for many years. I have subsequently added another normally closed relay to make sure the lights are off during cranking.
The power contacts of this relay interrupt the negatives of both lighting relay coils. The coil of this relay is connected to battery negative and the positive coil connection of the starter relay/solenoid.
This means when the bike is cranking, positive is applied to the coil, thus opening the relay and preventing the lighting relays from being energised and hence closing.
Richard
This pic shows roughly the output from an H4 bulb vs the voltage at the bulb. For example, if the light was getting full battery V of 13.5, you would get about 1200 lumens, but if you have 2 V loss/drop, then the light will on put out about 650 lumens!
The attachment is a DIY guide to making a slave, heavy duty circuit.
I have had this in my 900 for many years. I have subsequently added another normally closed relay to make sure the lights are off during cranking.
The power contacts of this relay interrupt the negatives of both lighting relay coils. The coil of this relay is connected to battery negative and the positive coil connection of the starter relay/solenoid.
This means when the bike is cranking, positive is applied to the coil, thus opening the relay and preventing the lighting relays from being energised and hence closing.
Richard
Richard, do you happen to have a diagram with the added relay?
I do better with pictures!
Brian
Hi Brian,Richard, do you happen to have a diagram with the added relay?
I do better with pictures!
Brian
Just modded the wiring diag to show how and where to connect the coil negatives from the hi and lo beam relays. Lines aren't too straight as i did it quickly
Richard
Ah HA! Now I understand. Pictures are just simply much easier for me!Hi Brian,
Just modded the wiring diag to show how and where to connect the coil negatives from the hi and lo beam relays. Lines aren't too straight as i did it quickly
Richard
Brian
sorry for the late reply, and many thanks to everyone!
@joeb-battery has few kms on it, reading 12.7 at stand.
@punch-jackpot!! will try and sort out the materials soon, pdf and diagram a huge help, thanks!
Cris.
@joeb-battery has few kms on it, reading 12.7 at stand.
@punch-jackpot!!
will try and sort out the materials soon, pdf and diagram a huge help, thanks!Cris.
Coneector looks a little crusty/corroded? Not unknown on these bikes.... cut it off and fit a new one! May save a LOT of faff...
Amperages, coil voltages, package type and pins vary.
You can use the readily available auto relay at car parts places and electronic component stores. They are about a 1" cube.
This link provides very good info about relays. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf
Page 8 has a pic on the mini relay and page 9 shows the two types of relays to use if you are using my diagram.
If you don't want to make it yourself, there are places that sell complete slave kits. One I saw years ago used Panasonic relays that were slim and looked as though would fit under the tank better. This might be a better solution for those with limited electrical knowledge.
The pic shows what you need for just the high/low slave system. Off at start needs an extra normally closed relay and associated wires and terminals.
Richard
Here is the article I wrote for Rapid Bikes Magazine here in Oz. It has a how to info and pics.@punch-jackpot!!
Cris.
Richard
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