Often the case with them. Be aware that the studs are hardened to a silly level (why they break), which means that ordinary drilling WILL NOT WORK! Add to that the thread lock Ducati used is from somewhere near hell, as it has to be as hot as before it releases. Anyway - read the posts - it's not really about parting out...I have no intention of parting her out. THe internals, so far, have been in great shape. Other than this stud issue, she seems all good.
ROFL. Lube? Vice grips? I shredded a proper stud remover trying to get my intact studs out. Heat (LOTS of heat), and a proper stud remover with hardened 'grip' bits (that can grip the stud as close to the base (cases) as possible), and hope that the alloy thread in the case doesn't come out with the stud. If the stud's broken off flush or below the case level, then welding a nut on it (worked for me), or machining it out (if you can get a shop with the right tools to deal with those studs and threadlock) has also worked. Admittedly, I used penetrating oil and twisting the stud back and forth when I got my broken bits out - but that was with a lot of heat (residual from the welding) involved, and nuts welded onto the stud bits to enable gentle twisting.For removal, Chris from CA Cycleworks said that a good set of vice grips and let then right twisting, lube and a lot of patience is what is needed.
READ THOSE POSTS that I linked you to. I'm NOT going to type it all out again - there's a detailed description of what I did when I used the weld method on mine (which has been used since by another member), plus added bits that I'd forgotten initially. There are also detailed descriptions of things others tried, which also worked. I used a MIG. And LOTS of anti-spatter spray.OK, got the cylinder up (too far, now I need a ring tool, darn it) and confirmed, totally flush, almost perfectly, actually. Looks like weld a nut time. Will it be a mig or a tig job??