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Do you pull your caliper? Interested to know your workflow with the extra bleeder. I'm so scared of getting air in the ABS unit. No good way to get it out without a Ducati computer to activate the damn thing.I have not tried the Castrol fluid. I have sorted my rear brake though. It had the full Termi on it when I got it. I've since put on a '13 master cyl, a bleeder on the abs pump and use the Motul 600 and Ebc HH pads. I flush every spring which keeps my rear pedal full. I can lock 'er up anytime.
That being said, $70 a liter for brake fluid is astronomical! I never leave brake fluid sit on the shelf after opening the bottle. When I flush, I do all 3 reservoirs and use the entire bottle. If Castrol offered this in a smaller quantity, I'd give it a go.
EDIT:
If it was just a heat issue, the ebrew heat shield would be a very successful mod. In my research, success was iffy.
I replace all the res fluid first. Then I bleed at the abs pump bleeder. When fluid flows fresh, I bleed at the elevated caliper.Do you pull your caliper? Interested to know your workflow with the extra bleeder. I'm so scared of getting air in the ABS unit. No good way to get it out without a Ducati computer to activate the damn thing.
Do you pull your caliper? Interested to know your workflow with the extra bleeder. I'm so scared of getting air in the ABS unit. No good way to get it out without a Ducati computer to activate the damn thing.
I had the MC upgrade you posted about on my to-do list for when mine finally stopped working. But it's still doing OK. I saw something somewhere that said the 2014's and up were the same. Since you've been through it, do you know how I can verify my 2014's MC size (without taking it apart)? Ducati part no to Brembo cross reference, etc.?
So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal? Or does having the bleed screw open prevent that anyway?you will not remove the air in the caliper's cylinders without removing the caliper and pointing the bleed screw up. no amount of reverse bleeding or other shortcuts will change that. spending the extra money on SRF, or other superfluid, is a waste if you're not going to do what is needed elsewhere.
Yes, use a similar thickness spacer.So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal? Or does having the bleed screw open prevent that anyway?
So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal? Or does having the bleed screw open prevent that anyway?
Yes. But, only because the pistons may not travel out the same amount AND at the same time. The pistons are long enough that, with the pads in place, they won't pop out and leak even without a rotor in place. But, to be safe.......So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal?
I wise old man once told me to always keep the rubber side down. :wink2:Or you could just flip the bike upside down to make things easier!:surprise: