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with their findings and info. Pardon if this has been posted before (I looked and didn't see it). I think I'm going to give this a try.
 

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My brake still works ok but it’s way overdue a flush (2014). I saw that video on a fb Group and I had the same question. Also wondered how he pressurized it with the caliper off.
 

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I have not tried the Castrol fluid. I have sorted my rear brake though. It had the full Termi on it when I got it. I've since put on a '13 master cyl, a bleeder on the abs pump and use the Motul 600 and Ebc HH pads. I flush every spring which keeps my rear pedal full. I can lock 'er up anytime.

That being said, $70 a liter for brake fluid is astronomical! I never leave brake fluid sit on the shelf after opening the bottle. When I flush, I do all 3 reservoirs and use the entire bottle. If Castrol offered this in a smaller quantity, I'd give it a go.


EDIT:
If it was just a heat issue, the ebrew heat shield would be a very successful mod. In my research, success was iffy.
 

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I have not tried the Castrol fluid. I have sorted my rear brake though. It had the full Termi on it when I got it. I've since put on a '13 master cyl, a bleeder on the abs pump and use the Motul 600 and Ebc HH pads. I flush every spring which keeps my rear pedal full. I can lock 'er up anytime.

That being said, $70 a liter for brake fluid is astronomical! I never leave brake fluid sit on the shelf after opening the bottle. When I flush, I do all 3 reservoirs and use the entire bottle. If Castrol offered this in a smaller quantity, I'd give it a go.


EDIT:
If it was just a heat issue, the ebrew heat shield would be a very successful mod. In my research, success was iffy.
Do you pull your caliper? Interested to know your workflow with the extra bleeder. I'm so scared of getting air in the ABS unit. No good way to get it out without a Ducati computer to activate the damn thing.
 

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Do you pull your caliper? Interested to know your workflow with the extra bleeder. I'm so scared of getting air in the ABS unit. No good way to get it out without a Ducati computer to activate the damn thing.
I replace all the res fluid first. Then I bleed at the abs pump bleeder. When fluid flows fresh, I bleed at the elevated caliper.

If I can find a friend to share a bottle, I’d definitely try the Castrol. I work as a tech at a used sportbike shop, so I like getting experience with as many fluids as possible. I can’t imagine anything being better in my instance.
 

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Doing some research.
Screen shot of the video data.


And a screen shot of the bottle of RBF600.


And a comparative chart.


This is just an effort to support claims. Seems the numbers are impressive. I can not find a fluid with a higher wet boil point.
 

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don't pull the claiper

With the extra bleeder, bleed from the rear MC to the extra bleeder, then using a reverse bleeding tool, bleed from the rear caliper to the extra bleeder. The extra bleeder is the now the high point of the system. Leave the caliper in place with the bleed nipple at the bottom, the bleed is now ALL UPHILL.

On pre 2015 models, changing the rear MC from a 13mm until to a 15mm is also a worth while upgrade, search the forums for "how to" or my posts.

The Ducati computer CANNOT activate the ABS.



Do you pull your caliper? Interested to know your workflow with the extra bleeder. I'm so scared of getting air in the ABS unit. No good way to get it out without a Ducati computer to activate the damn thing.
 

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I had the MC upgrade you posted about on my to-do list for when mine finally stopped working. But it's still doing OK. I saw something somewhere that said the 2014's and up were the same. Since you've been through it, do you know how I can verify my 2014's MC size (without taking it apart)? Ducati part no to Brembo cross reference, etc.?
 

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I haven't used the Castrol but I have used the Motul 600. And it works. I expect the Castrol to be even better but I cannot afford 70+ USD (similar price in Euros) for a 100 ml change (and then throw away the rest 900ml of the bottle. OK you will use some more for the front brakes as well but they never needed any measures of that kind anyway. A cheap fluid works perfectly fine for the fron).

The brake is still not perfect but I have completely dried and replaced the old fluid with the Motul one and I can still activate the rear ABS with a firm press of the pedal, 1.5 years after the change. I have the bleeder valve installed on the ABS unit and followed the recommended procedure for the bleeding (the one you see on the video). With the valve on the ABS it shouldn't be necessary to remove the caliper since there is now a bleeder valve on the top part of the circuit. However, the bleeder valve on the rear caliper is on the lower part of it and air that is introduced in the circuit may be trapped in the caliper. So you need to remove it in order to be 100% sure. I never had a problem with bleeding however. The pedal never had a long travel problem (due to air in the system). It just didn't activate the caliper. It's solved now. I don't mind doing the bleeding every two years if it works...
 

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If you don't have a DVT model (2015 on) you do need the upgraded MC


I had the MC upgrade you posted about on my to-do list for when mine finally stopped working. But it's still doing OK. I saw something somewhere that said the 2014's and up were the same. Since you've been through it, do you know how I can verify my 2014's MC size (without taking it apart)? Ducati part no to Brembo cross reference, etc.?
 

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you will not remove the air in the caliper's cylinders without removing the caliper and pointing the bleed screw up. no amount of reverse bleeding or other shortcuts will change that. spending the extra money on SRF, or other superfluid, is a waste if you're not going to do what is needed elsewhere.
 

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you will not remove the air in the caliper's cylinders without removing the caliper and pointing the bleed screw up. no amount of reverse bleeding or other shortcuts will change that. spending the extra money on SRF, or other superfluid, is a waste if you're not going to do what is needed elsewhere.
So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal? Or does having the bleed screw open prevent that anyway?
 

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So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal? Or does having the bleed screw open prevent that anyway?
Yes, use a similar thickness spacer.
 

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So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal? Or does having the bleed screw open prevent that anyway?

I use the cheap wood shims from Home Depot for holding the calipers open when bleeding the brakes.
 

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So when you do this, do you put some sort of spacer similar to the thickness of the disk between the pads to prevent them from being pushed out when manipulating the rear brake pedal?
Yes. But, only because the pistons may not travel out the same amount AND at the same time. The pistons are long enough that, with the pads in place, they won't pop out and leak even without a rotor in place. But, to be safe.......
 

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Thanks everyone, will use something about the thickness of the rotor, thin plywood or something. On my other bikes the bleed screw is on top of the caliper and I've always bled them in place.
 

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Just install bleeders on the ABS module, and it makes bleeding the rear brake a lot easier because that is the highpoint on the circuit*

....at least on the single sparks.
 
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