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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone have a similar issue? when the bike sits for more than a week, it takes three tries to start it up. i mean the starter cranks for about twenty seconds and dropps out two seperate times. on the third try, the engine fires.

once the engine runs, when you shut it off, on the next try it starts up as soon as you touch the starter button. If you let the bike sit for a week, the same scenario all over again.

i have the 2 into 1 exhaust and was thinking this could be the culpret. any suggestions?
 

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do you have a battery charger on the bike when not using?

is this symptom only when it is cold outside?

most likely the battery is just low in charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
battery is on a tender and cranks strong. it is cold out. that is why i'm thinking the exhaust system/fuel mapping
 

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you had the TPS reset and the air screws in the throttle bodies adjusted when you installed the DP ECU for the 2-1 system, right?

on my hypertard with the 2-1 termi, once i installed the system, reset the TPS and adjusted the air screws, i seem to remember that the cold start idle assist did not function. but i have not noticed any starting issues since installed.
 

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Idle

Hi, speaking on Idle , my bikes idle is a bit high when cold which is ok but it never gets below 1500 even when the motor is warm (outside temp. has been around 50F). is this normal and how can I adjust the idle?
 

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you had the TPS reset and the air screws in the throttle bodies adjusted when you installed the DP ECU for the 2-1 system, right?

on my hypertard with the 2-1 termi, once i installed the system, reset the TPS and adjusted the air screws, i seem to remember that the cold start idle assist did not function. but i have not noticed any starting issues since installed.
is there a thread where it goes thru adjusting the air screws? I couldn't find it. My idle is a little low and sometimes stalls
 

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Any abnormal smoke from exhaust on delayed start?
 

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is there a thread where it goes thru adjusting the air screws? I couldn't find it. My idle is a little low and sometimes stalls
ciao jeff -

i believe peter (dukepilot) has had a thread on this here somewhere ... try search inside this forum.

if not, pretty easy to adjust ... on each throttle body, there is a plastic cap that covers the air bleed screws. pop these caps, and you can use a small blade screwdriver to adjust the screws. best to adjust the idle speed when the motor is warmed up to operating temp, and use very small adjustments on each screw to balance the idle and set to the RPM you want.

ciao,
johnc
 

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Hard Starting, Stalling

Duckhead, if you haven't already, get rid of the emissions/fuel evap canister (make sure you plug the ports at each intake). Assuming your valves and belt tension are still in spec, have your TPS reset and fuel trim adjusted to around 4-5% CO at idle with engine at operating temp. Wouldn't hurt to install some iridium plugs too.

For irregular idle and stalling, make sure your fuel trim is set to 4-5% (you can only do this if you have a DP ECU). If you have over 7.5K miles on your bike, you should also have your belt tension and valve clearances checked. If you try adjusting the air bleed screw on each throttle body, you're likely to make things worse instead of better. You need to have a gas analyzer to do it properly. The air bleeds need to be adjusted as part of the throttle body synchronization process to equalize both cylinders at idle.

All this is really not too complicated if you have a VDSTS cable/software, Carb Tune/manometer and a gas analyzer, otherwise take it to a shop that has the necessary tools/equip.
 

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Try opening the throttle wide open briefly when it the starter is cranking. The dealer told me to do this and it works for me when the beastie does not fire immediately.
 

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have you tried a 5 tog duvet or failing that...a marino wool blanket? works for me when it's cold
 

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Hi, speaking on Idle , my bikes idle is a bit high when cold which is ok but it never gets below 1500 even when the motor is warm (outside temp. has been around 50F). is this normal and how can I adjust the idle?
1250 to 1300 is what mine idles at ...I also give it a quick full throttle .takes about three revolutions to fire up..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Duckhead, if you haven't already, get rid of the emissions/fuel evap canister (make sure you plug the ports at each intake). Assuming your valves and belt tension are still in spec, have your TPS reset and fuel trim adjusted to around 4-5% CO at idle with engine at operating temp. Wouldn't hurt to install some iridium plugs too.

For irregular idle and stalling, make sure your fuel trim is set to 4-5% (you can only do this if you have a DP ECU). If you have over 7.5K miles on your bike, you should also have your belt tension and valve clearances checked. If you try adjusting the air bleed screw on each throttle body, you're likely to make things worse instead of better. You need to have a gas analyzer to do it properly. The air bleeds need to be adjusted as part of the throttle body synchronization process to equalize both cylinders at idle.

All this is really not too complicated if you have a VDSTS cable/software, Carb Tune/manometer and a gas analyzer, otherwise take it to a shop that has the necessary tools/equip.
thank you!!!
 

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Hi, speaking on Idle , my bikes idle is a bit high when cold which is ok but it never gets below 1500 even when the motor is warm (outside temp. has been around 50F). is this normal and how can I adjust the idle?
1250-1350 is the recommended idle RPM. Shoot for 1350, it will help eliminate stalling.
I give the throttle a little goose when cold starting. This is contrary to what we have been taught with F.I. If I don't, it takes a bit of cranking and most times, I have to throw the kill switch and try again. I would rather goose the throttle a bit, have it start right up and cut down on starter/battery wear.

Oh, also when you remove the evap canister, just run one of the evap hoses between the ports, then you don't have to deal with buying port caps. It also maintains a bit of a stock look.
 

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ciao jeff -

i believe peter (dukepilot) has had a thread on this here somewhere ... try search inside this forum.

if not, pretty easy to adjust ... on each throttle body, there is a plastic cap that covers the air bleed screws. pop these caps, and you can use a small blade screwdriver to adjust the screws. best to adjust the idle speed when the motor is warmed up to operating temp, and use very small adjustments on each screw to balance the idle and set to the RPM you want.

ciao,
johnc
Silly question I bet: but is this able to be adjusted w/o a computer?

thx
 

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Wow! I was having hot starting issues, stalling and eventually cold starting issues until I did this. Turns out one was set at 1/4 turn out and the other 1.25 turns out. The idle increased from 1050 to 1300 and the off idle snap is 10 times better! Why didn't I do this two years ago?
 
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