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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I've owned my GT for a year now and I'd like to give a quick appraisal of the bike and the mods carried out.

I'm concerned about the amount of work that has been required and the cost. I've fitted Hyperpro fork springs; a centrestand; new chain and 14/42t sprockets, which has at last given me gearing that I'm happy with; a Fatduc which has really improved the low-end performance; a rear hugger from QB Carbon; a steering damper, which I did not need, but felt compelled to fit after Major Softie's experience. The damper was originally too stiff, the bike rolling around at low speeds, but Sprint Dampers, here in the UK, kindly changed the damping fluid for me to make it softer. I invested in a pair of YSS rear shocks from Custom SportClassics and finally, found a used PS front wheel on eBay, which has improved the front suspension. I just need a rear now if anyone has one laying around.

I'm quite happy with the GT now as it stands, although the heavy wheels make riding on the bumps hard work and I find something wrong with the riding position, which I can't put my finger on, maybe it is the sloping seat. Incidentally, the GT's tank is 5 inches further back than the tank on my Multistrada; could this be the reason for tank slappers on the Sport Classics?
 

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Interesting read, especially regarding the difference with the alloy front wheel. I have oftened wondered how much that was playing into complaints about the front suspension, which have always seemed louder from the GT crowd than from the rest of us.

I think most here are with you regarding the expense required to get these bikes set up half way decently. Really, what would better for cartridges and better rear shocks cost the factory, an extra $300 per bike? Putting low end, completely non-adjustable forks on the SC bikes was a miscalculation for sure. The wheels I have mixed feelings about - it's not hard to see why they chose what they did. Even so, what would it have cost to put the alloys on the GT, and also on all the SC bikes to use SS spokes of high enough quality that they would not rust?
 

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How did you get the QB Carbon hugger? .. I'm digging around on their site trying to find details. Is there anyone in the US selling them?
 

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You need to replace the heavy original wheels. Mine's a new bike since the light alloy wheels went on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi ducSculptor, As I recall, I emailed them about the hugger, I could not order via the web site.
 

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I've never ridden my GT with the stock wheels, I bought the bike as a used model & it already had the alloy Sport Classic wheels fitted. I find the GT handles fine (although I'm no Hailwood) on smooth tarmac. The front does tend to bounce somewhat uncomfortably on uneven roads. Mrs H has commented on this from the few pillions rides she had made with me.

I shall probably replace the stock springs before next summer and may even move to different wheels in order to run tubeless tyres. My approach to this will be piecemeal, just changing one feature at a time in order that I can try to experience the benefit (hopefully!) of each single change.

Cautious? Yes, but it's always good to have an excuse to get out & ride my bike! "Just popping out to test the bike dear, must make sure it's perfectly safe before you get on the back".
 

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I have a fiberglass hugger from QB, I emailed them as well to arrange the sale
 

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I have had mine for a year, and have kept it pretty well stock. Did go to a 14 front sprocket, and got a windshield which is awesome for cooler weather riding. I'd like to get the rear bags and lighter wheels, but not in my current economic position.
 

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Are you guys going to the DP wheels?

Also, why would tubeless tires be better? Wouldn't the OE tires react better in a blowout?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tubeless tyres would be better. I'd like to fit a set of Alpinas, but my bank balance is creaking under the strain of this bike. The cheaper option would be to seal the original rims.
 

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Are you guys going to the DP wheels?

Also, why would tubeless tires be better? Wouldn't the OE tires react better in a blowout?
Tubeless tyres tend to deflate more slowly when punctured (in my experience anyway). They may also be more easily repaired at the roadside as long as the cause of the puncture lends itself to a 'plugging' repair. A tyre with an inner tube always needs the tyre/wheel to be removed before patching or replacing the inner tube.

My bike could be said to already have the DP wheels. The former owner made a successful warranty claim due to corrosion & replaced the steel/chromed wheels with the alloy/excel rims as fitted to the Sport Classic 1000S.

I am looking at options from Alpina and am also discussing the potential for cooperating with Dymag (a wheel maker in the UK) to have cast wheels (forged aluminium, magnesium or carbon fibre) made for the GT1000.
Watch this space.
 

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Had the GT for a year before finally making the decision that the heavy stock wheels had to go. I found myself making other mods, trying to compensate for them. Off they came, and on went a set of SC alloy wheels. They have the same look, and make for a far more responsive suspension.

Sold the original wheels just a few weeks ago. They had been stored for a year, nearly new, in the box that the alloy wheels came in. I found that the spokes had started to corrode while stored! A chrome polish session took care of the problem, but I was surprised this had happened in our dry desert climate.
 

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Are you guys going to the DP wheels?

Also, why would tubeless tires be better? Wouldn't the OE tires react better in a blowout?
The stock SC tires are tubeless, they just were installed by the factory with rims that are not.

There is an older thread here somewhere (Dietrich, I think?) that shows about 2 pounds (IIRC) savings per wheel. This should be noticeable, as it's weight removed from the farthest point from the axle, effecting the 'moment of inertia' more than if it were removed from say, the hubs somehow.
 
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