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It is worth noting that my dealer told me that the extra supports on the top box were added to the 2013 model because some guy in the US tried suing Ducati after the top box 'snapped' off when he was going over 200kph.
The braces were on the topboxes from day one.

When I had the tank replaced on my old 1100 multi due to swelling, the tech told me he'd heard of tanks swelling and splitting wide open, catching the bike on fire. Never heard this story from anyone that it actually happened to.
 

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I will say it only once more....in my (vast) experinece of this issue...START with getting that back wheel properly balanced. Bye (on this subject)
 

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I have said it before but I will say it again. I had EXACTLY that scary problem.
The answer for me was rear wheel balance. It took 15 grams and fixed the problem. Today, with all boxes on....245km/h indicated (GPS 228). I'm not going to say it felt 'planted', but the wobble which would start anywhere from 210 to 220 was gone.
So do you reckon they don't bother balancing them at the factory? There are weights installed and one would think this would be a requirement?

As noted, the front preload adjustment seems to have fixed my issue and I will know for sure after tomorrow's ride out.
 

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North Carolina, USA
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I will say it only once more....in my (vast) experinece of this issue...START with getting that back wheel properly balanced. Bye (on this subject)
My local independent shop can't balance the single sided rear wheel when they mount tires for me. I've had speed wobbles from time to time on both 1200s, so I may take the rear wheel somewhere and get it balanced and see what that does.
 

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My local independent shop can't balance the single sided rear wheel when they mount tires for me.
Why? No adapter for the hole size? If that's the problem you can get an adapter from Marc Parnes...assuming that you get good mounting prices and take it with you when you change tires.

Lot's of folks have never balanced a rear wheel. I think it just because you don't feel imbalance like you would in the front. But...out of balance is out of balance. I always do the rear!
 

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North Carolina, USA
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Why? No adapter for the hole size? If that's the problem you can get an adapter from Marc Parnes...assuming that you get good mounting prices and take it with you when you change tires.

Lot's of folks have never balanced a rear wheel. I think it just because you don't feel imbalance like you would in the front. But...out of balance is out of balance. I always do the rear!
I think that's what they told me, no adapter. Been taking wheels to their shop for 20+ years. Back then they would mount and balance both tires for $25 bucks. The good thing is that I can just walk into their shop with my wheels and tires, and walk out 15 minutes later with the job done. Eventually I gave away my tire mounting stand. They charge a bit more for the labor these days ($50 maybe) and are a bit more expensive on the tires when I have bought sets from them, but I like to support the small local guys. Good karma.
 

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My 'normal' tyre shop could not balance the rear (no fitting) and gave the 'it's not important' story. My Ducati dealer said it was very important on these bikes and he did it. And it worked. The wobble came back after a few 1000 km due tyre wear....so they balanced it again...and the wobble was gone.
I do wonder if 'beads' may be the answer.
 

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A very wise old mechanic once told a very new mechanic (me) some of the best information I ever received. I will repeat here for everyone: when dealing with a problem with no known cause ALWAYS look at the easiest possible causes first before you start guessing at the more difficult ones. In any wobble condition it is prudent to look towards the tires and/or tire balance first. Just because tires may have been balanced earlier doesn't mean they may not need another balance job.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Guys,

It took me a long time but I finally got the time to do some
high speed testing on the highway. Simply put: the speed wobble
is non existent when driving in sports modus, took her up to
230 kmp/h, not a single problem or imbalance. Setup was the same:
just me and topcase. Problem solved yihaa
 

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All weather biker
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That appears to be a lot of people's experience/the fix. I really think it's verging on dangerous having them come shipped like this. A less experienced rider could get into a lot of trouble if they e.g. tightened up on the bars.

I almost wonder is it intentional to keep us going a bit slower (with luggage on in particular). I'm running at 5.5 out now and testing gradually, will have a proper play now that the DSS is working again. soon. :)

On mine, it did it even in sport mode until the front pre-load was increased.

Obi, maybe you are lighter? Or maybe your dealer had your pre-load set a bit better?
 

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It only takes about 15 minutes to properly set the sag. This should be a delivery practice when the bike is picked up from the dealership.

I don't think it's intentional, just an oversight on Ducati's part and part of the learning curve from implementing a new technology.

What really surprised me was that my dealer's tech didn't even know that the front pre-load was manually adjustable and had to be set.

Mike
 

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yep...got to get the sag somewhere near right...and I have not heard of any dealers who do this for a new buyer. (Though I am sure many do....not here).
Mine was set to about 11 turns (from a total i think of 13). Way too 'hard' for me. (Im 75 kgs with all my gear). getting the sag in the ball park helped a lot in many respects...and must be done. But the final wobble cure for me was the rear wheel balance.
 

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"from a total i think of 13"

From where are you referencing 13 turns, fully clockwise or fully counterclockwise? What are the sag measurements? Which mode do you set the sag in as I have watched preload being added when you switch between modes?
 

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Modes have no effect on front fork sag. Turn the big blue nut all the way in...then all the way out. I think it was 13 turns...someone else can confirm.
 

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"from a total i think of 13"

From where are you referencing 13 turns, fully clockwise or fully counterclockwise? What are the sag measurements? Which mode do you set the sag in as I have watched preload being added when you switch between modes?
You need to turn the front fork knob counter clockwise all the way. Count the rotations.

I found mine only 3/4 from full counter clockwise. I backed mine about 2 turns out and went for a test ride.

I have a bike mechanic friend that we attempted to measure the sag, but no number made sense in the front. We gave up trying to measure the front.

But from riding it adjusted out the bike is VERY stable at speed even loaded fully like I am on this trip.
 

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Monkey,
For the font sag, the bike has 170mm of suspension travel. The sag target is 50-56mm (28-33% of the travel). You'll want to be as close to that as you can get to optimize the travel. Most bike mechanics don't have experience setting sag on long travel bikes, so their baseline assumption is to target it like a sport bike, which would only be 25-30mm.

Having said that, if all the way out works for you then just ride it. Counterclockwise is no preload, clockwise is preload.

Mike
 

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did you check the sag with the bike running? As it's my understanding some interval of time, 30 seconds? after shut off the suspension goes stiff.

You need to turn the front fork knob counter clockwise all the way. Count the rotations.

I found mine only 3/4 from full counter clockwise. I backed mine about 2 turns out and went for a test ride.

I have a bike mechanic friend that we attempted to measure the sag, but no number made sense in the front. We gave up trying to measure the front.

But from riding it adjusted out the bike is VERY stable at speed even loaded fully like I am on this trip.
 
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